Odd things found as I learn about 10342

[Ron]

Ron,

The voltages at the connector are correct when having a load on it, as we suspected. And yes I checked the lines coming right from the thermal control valve dead cold (well about 80 deg F ambient, as "cold" as it gets here) and hot after a cycle of the fans. The line designed to the WUR is always showing vacuum. I also did my best to see if the 3 lines are connected correctly to the thermal control valve, but it is hard to see in there. I remember a post that showed a way to tell, but that probably assumed that the valve was functional.

Sorry, it is still not clear to me if you checked the line going to the solenoid (not distributor).*
Assuming you did, I'd say it always has vacuum as well. That be the case, the thermal control valve must be bad because, regardless of temp/microswitch, it is impossible to get a yes-yes condition no matter how you route the 3 remaining lines if the thermal control valve is functioning properly.

* It is important because the solenoid can be connected backwards causing it to not vent properly and hold vacuum on the distributor advance line after the solenoid is deactivated...this can fool you into thinking vacuum on the distributor line is there from the vacuum control valve when it is residual/the advance diaphragm supplying it... Not to mention 6 possible ways to route the lines can make ones brain hurt and a 4th line would make it 10 ;-)

Agree that when the engine is warmed up, the WUR being without vacuum would not affect acceleration, as I read it.

lol-I'm guessing I wasn't clear... The point there was that, when the engine coolant is below 104F, it will perform poorly and be prone to backfire (too lean) with the vacuum to the WUR blocked off. A bit risky, imho.

[SBL]

Yes I checked the lines that came directly from the valve, nit at the distributer. From the look at the books, the solenoid lines are not switched. I will need to ponder the problem of being too lean at startup should I take the vacuum off the WUR.

[Ron]

...I guess, for the time being, you could block it off and baby it until it warmed up a bit while you concentrated on bigger problems.

[SBL]

ON TO THE NEXT:

While changing the spark plug closest to the firewall on the passenger side, I saw a wire deep in the bowels that goes to a connector that is plugged in to a socket that seems to be screwed into the block. It was hard to see, and I am not sure of the orientation.. Not in the VOD. I took a picture with my fiberoptic camera. I cannot figure out what this is. I believe that it had only one wire coming from it, which had green as a dominant color. Seems like a sensor wire, I cannot trace it. Anyone know what this is?

[Ron]

If the wire is green with blue stripe, it is the temp gauge sending unit.

[SBL]

Moving on.....

It looks like I have a non OEM radiator. It is metal, painted black, and has what appears to be a sensor on the driver's side. Can anyone identify the radiator or vendor? There are several Hervey parts that I see on the car, so that is a possibility.

[SBL]

Correction: sensor is on passenger side

[SBL]

Nobody recognizes that radiator? I wonder if it was done with whatever could be found that fit.

[David T]

It is possible it was built up by a local radiator shop and not supplied by any of the Delorean vendors.

[Ron]

The sensor (or fan switch?) in the tank has a much larger diameter compared to those I've seen. The electrical socket is another clue. You might have better luck showing the pic to someone at the parts store.