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Thread: Replacing Window Switches

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Posts:    70

    My VIN:    10452

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    Replacing Window Switches

    Hello all, I ordered some new Window Switches for my car. Is there anything tricky about installing these. They are the ones from DMC. Illuminated LED. Is there a tutorial anywhere on how to do this? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member D Knight's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cleveland, Oh

    Posts:    240

    A very easy job. Pull the old ones out, unplug the connector and install the new ones. Sometimes you may need to pull the ashtray and push them out from the bottom


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2016

    Location:  SW FL

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    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Very easy - switches just pull up and have a small connector. May I suggest a switch alignment plate. Great piece to keep switches secure and "in-line":

    https://www.deloreango.com/us/consol...stainless.html

    https://pjgrady.com/product/the-mattaligner-ss/
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  4. #4
    Senior Member Citizen's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Houston, TX

    Posts:    791

    You know, over the years I've read and read about how easy a job it is to replace window switches. Yeah, I agree, in theory it is easy. But...

    I've had to do it a number of times now. Pick your reason: PO inverted switch (press up, window goes down, & visa versa), switch went bad, replace dummy with accessory cut-off switch. Truth is, I've had trouble almost every time. I'm sure you're probably thinking it's just me, but here are some troubles I've encountered.

    • Existing/Old switch seems stuck in place. Can't remove it from the top without totally destroying it after pulling on it, then knocking the rocker-cover off. Then have to push up from the bottom, and even then it takes a lot of force and so you tend to use too much, damaging the switch.
    • New switches are too tall, bad design - Bottoms out for whatever reason (console has been pushed down, doesn't match existing hole properly, new switch is too big, or the notch doesn't align)

    I do recommend a Mattaligner from PJGrady. This was the only way my new switches would go back in, and stay down. Without it, the new switches are too tall (or the console has been pushed down over time). Not only does the Mattaligner properly align your switches, but it gives you "bump protection", AND.... it gives you just a few more mm's to work with by raising the switch a bit. Also, someone (I'd like to give credit, and I think it was Rob Grady) recommended placing a 2x4x1" block inside and under the console. This is a great suggestion: there is room in there, and it will stop your console from being pushed down even further whenever you push down on it, like when you're adjusting yourself in your seat.

    I also don't recommend forcing a switch into place if it doesn't fit in easy and properly. The switches are delicate and easy to screw up, and it's an expensive and frustrating mistake to make. Seek help as needed (advice from a pro, or purchase a Mattaligner, or whatever).

    (I have no financial interest in Mattaligners, I just know this product solved my very frustrating window switch problems).

    Thomas

    ...
    Keeper of the DeLorean Owners Directory, at www.DeloreanOwnersDirectory.net

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  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

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    My VIN:    10452

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    Thanks everyone, ok I tried all that. Everything seemed to be good. I installed the Jumper on each new switch and the light illuminated on the left driver side switch but it would not lower my window. I am thinking there is another problem there.

    I installed the passenger side switch and everything was working again as it should. Window going up and down without problem. I got curious and unplugged the passenger switch to try it on the Driver side to make sure it wasn't a problem with the switch itself and I got the same result as the first time. Illumination but no window movement. I went to install it back on the passenger side and now there is no illumination and the window doesn't move up or down at all! I am thinking some Electrical problem has developed now on the passenger side. So much for my easy repair... Any help would be appreciated greatly?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,005

    My VIN:    03572

    When you put the connector on, wiggle it a little, never force it on. I have seen a few window switches where the pins have been forced and they press into the switch mechanics and break things. Sometimes the wires are pulling on the pins and they need a little play to mate with the switch pins.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

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    My VIN:    10452

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    I appreciate it but I don't understand it...

  9. #9
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Sorry, see if it is clear now. Updated version HERE

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Mar 2020

    Posts:    3

    Window Switch Connector

    Hello,

    has anyone had any trouble with a connector causing a short and blowing the 30 amp fuse? I just hit the window switch to roll down my window today and it blew the 30 amp fuse. I took out the switch and its pretty melted. Wondering if that's my problem. WIth the window switch out, it doesn't blow the fuse.

    Sorry if this highjacking this thread, but not sure where to ask about it.

    Thanks,

    Josh

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