Water Pump Replacement

[Cirilloron1]

All,

I am in the middle of replacing my water pump. I have used the procedures I have found on this site to work my way through the process. It is not hard but way too much in the way for such a simple task. I really appreciate the comments and tips I have found on this site. I did it all without braking a single bolt by using the tips found here. I used a hand impact wrench after thoroughly soaking each bolt in Sili Kroil. Those bolts that did not break free with hand impact wrench I used my air impact wrench--gradually increasing the air pressure. It is all apart and just taking my time cleaning out the "valley of death". I do have a question concerning the installation of the water pump for those that have done that. It appears that four hoses (the two in the rear of the pump and the two short hoses in the front) have to be installed all at once. Is there any particular way to do this to make it easy? Should they attach to the engine first and then install the pump or the reverse? Any help or tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks,



Ron

[David T]

If you have gone this deep you should remove the "Y" pipe and replace the "O" ring seals. Install the pump and then put the "Y" pipe back connecting to the back of the water pump. The 2 small hoses under the water pump can be done after the pump is installed or as you install the pump. Don't forget, once you have the cooling system all "buttoned up", you should pressure test the cooling system to make sure there are no leaks. If you use silicone hoses you won't have to worry about trying to tighten the clamps up after a few heating and cooling cycles.

[Parzival]

If you have gone this deep you should remove the "Y" pipe and replace the "O" ring seals. Install the pump and then put the "Y" pipe back connecting to the back of the water pump. The 2 small hoses under the water pump can be done after the pump is installed or as you install the pump. Don't forget, once you have the cooling system all "buttoned up", you should pressure test the cooling system to make sure there are no leaks. If you use silicone hoses you won't have to worry about trying to tighten the clamps up after a few heating and cooling cycles.

I second the pressure test. I had the seem on my water pump leak 2 times! I would have been in real trouble if I had put it back toghether without pressurizing first. Finally I got the system to hold 15PSI for half an hour before reinstalling the intake.

[Mark D]

If you have gone this deep you should remove the "Y" pipe and replace the "O" ring seals. Install the pump and then put the "Y" pipe back connecting to the back of the water pump. The 2 small hoses under the water pump can be done after the pump is installed or as you install the pump. Don't forget, once you have the cooling system all "buttoned up", you should pressure test the cooling system to make sure there are no leaks. If you use silicone hoses you won't have to worry about trying to tighten the clamps up after a few heating and cooling cycles.

[Cirilloron1]

If you have gone this deep you should remove the "Y" pipe and replace the "O" ring seals. Install the pump and then put the "Y" pipe back connecting to the back of the water pump. The 2 small hoses under the water pump can be done after the pump is installed or as you install the pump. Don't forget, once you have the cooling system all "buttoned up", you should pressure test the cooling system to make sure there are no leaks. If you use silicone hoses you won't have to worry about trying to tighten the clamps up after a few heating and cooling cycles.

Thanks for the reply. I already have one bolt off the "Y" pipe (the one that holds the metal heater tube). I am still trying to remove the metal tube to the heater hose--it's being a difficult child. I have one question concerning the "Y" pipe. I read in one of the procedures you should resurface the mating surfaces if you take that off. That can have numerous meanings ranging from cleaning with sandpaper to milling the surface????? I like the idea of installing the hose and then the "Y" pipe. That makes a lot of sense.

I also like the idea of pressure testing prior to putting it all back (you and others made that suggestion). I checked with AutoZone and they loan pressure testers.


Has anyone coated the VOD to help prevent corrosion and discourage critters from taking up residence there? If so what have they used. I decided that spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor will be replaced at this time since they are easy to get to now and can be purchased locally.


Thanks to all that responded,

Ron

[David T]

Difficult to get any coating to adhere to dirty aluminum. The "best" thing to use is Glyptal. It is a thick, rubbery coating. You can get it at a shop that rebuilds electric motors or you can buy a small can from Eastwood.com. As for the "Y" pipe, smooth the surface with a file and make sure where the "O" ring goes it is clean and flat. Careful now, you haven't broken any bolts so far! One "trick" is to tap the head of the bolt hard to break up any corrosion before attempting to loosen it. When loosening a bolt, sometimes you loosen it just a bit and them tighten it. A few back-and-forth times and maybe it won't break. Another "trick" is to heat the head up to cherry, let it cool, heat it again and then undo it.

[mluder]

Just to add to the fun.

- The pressure tester can also be used to bleed your cooling system with the car off... Basically instead of letting the water pump pressurize the system you use the tester. Much more friendly then getting hot coolant all over yourself.
- If you have a really stubborn bolt, heat it with a torch until red hot and then hit it with the Liquid Wrench of your choice. The heat creates capillary action drawing the lubricant into the threads. Or so I'm told.

Cheers
Steven

[Cirilloron1]

Just to add to the fun.

- The pressure tester can also be used to bleed your cooling system with the car off... Basically instead of letting the water pump pressurize the system you use the tester. Much more friendly then getting hot coolant all over yourself.
- If you have a really stubborn bolt, heat it with a torch until red hot and then hit it with the Liquid Wrench of your choice. The heat creates capillary action drawing the lubricant into the threads. Or so I'm told.

Cheers
Steven

Just to let you know all four bolts are off. I did it the same way I did all the others (sili kroil, hand impact driver, air impact increasing psi slowly). I am going to run a tap down all the bolt holes. I don't have a any bottom taps in metric but a regular taper tap should get about 70% of the threads. I have anti seize ready for the reinstall. I like the idea of using the pressure tester. Any particular instructions for doing that? Again I thank everyone for their help. I might not get back to this for a few days as I am busy right through the weekend.

Ron

[David T]

Fill with water pump up about 10 psi, bleed the radiator (the small nipple on the top right hand side) and the bleeder next to the water pump. Top off again and pressurize to 15 psi. Retighten all clamps. DO NOT go above 15 psi. Dump the water and refill with 50/50 water and anti-freeze.

[DMC-81]

If you have gone this deep you should remove the "Y" pipe and replace the "O" ring seals. Install the pump and then put the "Y" pipe back connecting to the back of the water pump. The 2 small hoses under the water pump can be done after the pump is installed or as you install the pump. Don't forget, once you have the cooling system all "buttoned up", you should pressure test the cooling system to make sure there are no leaks. If you use silicone hoses you won't have to worry about trying to tighten the clamps up after a few heating and cooling cycles.

David, I've mentioned this numerous times but here's another ....if you properly torque any clamp to the manufacturer's spec, whether you use silicone or rubber hoses, you won't have to retighten. This is because the proper spec is tighter than one can do with a screwdriver/nut driver. To me, it's silly to worry about tearing the VOD apart again to tighten cooling clamps after "a few heating and cooling cycles".

Fill with water pump up about 10 psi, bleed the radiator (the small nipple on the top right hand side) and the bleeder next to the water pump. Top off again and pressurize to 15 psi. Retighten all clamps. DO NOT go above 15 psi. Dump the water and refill with 50/50 water and anti-freeze.

If the OP is just replacing the water pump, he shouldn't have to bleed the radiator.

Ron, here are a couple pictures if they help on clamp orientation:



I didn't paint the valley. I just cleaned it well.