Car died in parking lot after running, now won't start, will crank

[2k1Toaster]

We had a nice day today so I drove the DeLorean. Drove it to and from work and out to lunch. Then went out for a trip to the store. Car was running buttery smooth did high speed highway and surface street driving. Pulled into the store parking lot, engine still on and I go to turn the key to turn the car off and it just dies. Electrical still worked, radio still going, lights still on, but engine suddenly cut out. OK... Try to restart, no go.

I tried cranking a few times and the engine sounds like it wants to start but it just isn't. The starter is definitely working the engine. It didn't sound low on voltage but I haven't tried to jump it yet, will do tonight.

I read that the main beginner culprit is the rpm relay I guess to the fuel pump. So I unplugged it and jumpered the connection using some alligator clips and I could hear the fuel pump going. Tried to start, still no start. This was after many failed starts so it could be a low battery at this point too.

But what else and where should I look? It's sitting in a sketchy parking lot, dead.

[jmpdmc]

How about ballast resistor connections? Tighten them and/or inspect for a damaged wire.




Jeff Porter
01678

[Riley88]

Ballast resister then check the ignition coil connections over on the back right side of the engine compartment. I had an issue like yours awhile back that stranded me and it was literally just the ignition coil wire came loose

[2k1Toaster]

Ok thankyou will check both if I can find them. What's the best place to find an exploded view diagram of where these parts actually are? I've seen the ballast resistor but I don't know the engine compartment backwards and forwards unfortunately.

I was also reading about the Cold Start Valve (CSV) and ThermoTime Switch (TTS) potentially being issues. If the car was running, engine on, if the CSV was stuck and spraying extra fuel, could it flood while on? It was just idling in neutral with the parking brake on when it suddenly died.

[2k1Toaster]

I understand how a bad coil connection could cause an idle death, but it's my understanding that the ballast resistor is only important during start? So if the car was idling and it died, the resistor is less likely the culprit?

I found where the coil and resistor are so once the rain calms down I'll see what I can find. I'll also put the relay back in and make sure I can hear the pump or not.

[DMC-Ron]

Ballast/ignition resistor is in affect and important for both start and run. When cranking some of the resistance is shorted (removed) to give the coil a higher voltage. Once the key switch is returned to the run position, the full resistance is in the circuit as the engine runs. Open connections in the ballast/ignition resistor will not allow any voltage to the coil (no spark), while a bad connection can make the voltage to the coil too low for proper spark. As has been suggested, clean the connections and replace any corroded connectors. The resistor connections are a common cause of sudden engine stoppage.

Ron

[JETS 81 DMC]

P.J. Grady Emergency Troubleshooting Guide
Excellent PDF file copy of Glovebox Service Manual!

Go to post #9 for the pdf copy in the link below.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?99...shooting-Guide

Maybe this will help you out. Good luck.

[DMC-81]

We had a nice day today so I drove the DeLorean. Drove it to and from work and out to lunch. Then went out for a trip to the store. Car was running buttery smooth did high speed highway and surface street driving. Pulled into the store parking lot, engine still on and I go to turn the key to turn the car off and it just dies. Electrical still worked, radio still going, lights still on, but engine suddenly cut out. OK... Try to restart, no go.

I tried cranking a few times and the engine sounds like it wants to start but it just isn't. The starter is definitely working the engine. It didn't sound low on voltage but I haven't tried to jump it yet, will do tonight.

I read that the main beginner culprit is the rpm relay I guess to the fuel pump. So I unplugged it and jumpered the connection using some alligator clips and I could hear the fuel pump going. Tried to start, still no start. This was after many failed starts so it could be a low battery at this point too.

But what else and where should I look? It's sitting in a sketchy parking lot, dead.

You've got great suggestions so far. Trying to think of other ideas... From you comment, I wonder if something happened to your ignition switch? Paging Ron.... Is this a possible problem with the switch where the car turns over but the power to the fuel pump or ignition is disconnected? Or maybe going to turn it off was coincidental .

Also, serious question... How much fuel is in your tank? (I have had a no start condition with less than a 1/4 tank, especially when the car was on a grade.)

One more question: do you have a battery cutoff switch? If so, are the connections tight?

[2k1Toaster]

You've got great suggestions so far. Trying to think of other ideas... From you comment, I wonder if something happened to your ignition switch? Paging Ron.... Is this a possible problem with the switch where the car turns over but the power to the fuel pump or ignition is disconnected? Or maybe going to turn it off was coincidental .

Also, serious question... How much fuel is in your tank? (I have had a no start condition with less than a 1/4 tank, especially when the car was on a grade.)

One more question: do you have a battery cutoff switch? If so, are the connections tight?

I hadn't touched the ignition/key yet. It was all mind control. Hand was hovering around it. So hopefully not that!

I checked the inertia switch, black plunger is still down. It has the white paint on it and is located approximately by the hood release.

I did put in 2+ gallons when I got it home just in case, no difference.

Thinking about it the ecu and the shelf in general probably do get moved when I drive. I have a (bad) habit of leaning against the back of the seat to get in and out and now that I think about it I probably leaned backwards to push forwards to grab the key and that's when it died. So bad ecu connector sounds plausible too. Anyways I am in there so I'm doing cleaning. But for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the lambda ecu connector. The big black one with the blue/purple wire coming out of it. I tried pulling but it feels like it's going to break... Is there a secret?

[2k1Toaster]

But for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the lambda ecu connector. The big black one with the blue/purple wire coming out of it. I tried pulling but it feels like it's going to break... Is there a secret?

To answer my own question I was able to find a picture of used modules for sale that show it without a connector. I saw the metal latch and was able to swing the latch and move the connector out. That's a seriously strange automotive connector in a car where nothing else I've found is mounted that way....