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Thread: Car died in parking lot after running, now won't start, will crank

  1. #31
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2011

    Location:  Colorado Springs

    Posts:    19

    My VIN:    3297

    So one of the things I ordered was new relays. I figured now was a good time to replace the Fuel/Tach RPM Relay as it's a high failure part and I don't want to be guessing. I just ordered the "replace-em-all" kit from the store. As soon as I looked back there thinking about how to do it, I remembered that about 8-9 years ago while driving there was lots of smoke and small smolders of pre-fire back there. At the time I was just driving down the interstate with the HVAC vent on and all of a sudden I see smoke out of the corner of my eye, and smoke is billowing out from the rear shelf under the carpet. So I immediately pull off the highway, remove the carpet and the wood board and the wood was HOT. I let it all cool down, started it up, and it ran. So I drove it to my house and that following weekend went about rebuilding all the fuses. Basically the fuse box completely melted. It looked mostly original with some extra jumpers in place which I can only figure were there because they had previously overloaded/smoked and the PO made a quick fix to use a spare slot or an inline fuse.

    I'm not overly proud of the way I fixed all the fuses, but being a full time broke university student I am glad I soldered, heatshrinked, and put the fuses in labeled covered compartments. It's probably time to find an alternate solution, but oh well.

    Then I started on my task of replacing the relays. The first one is to replace the far left relay with 2 inline fuses. To my surprise I already had 2 inline fuses. To my horror they were soldered into the relay plug adapter and had loose wire strands just fraying off. The slightest movement shorted them. Not sure how helpful the fuse really was, as looking at the base it really just looked completely shorted together.



    So I re-spliced in the old one with solder and heatshrink to the wires it goes to on the underside and then heatshrinked off the coil contact wires so I could remove the plastic part.


    I replaced the 7 standard fuses, cleaned the terminals on the white, red, and green ones. Replaced the RPM relay. Then I got to the circuit breakers. To my surprise I had a 40A circuit breaker and a 25A circuit breaker already. I was under the impression the car comes with a 35A and a 25A. Both were heavily corroded. To replace the 40A one (#19) I needed to find out which one was the BAT connection. I connected the battery again and measured, neither were at battery voltage. One had abotu 7Kohms to the battery, the other was mega-ohms. There should be no way for the cooling fans to work with this breaker inoperable. But I know the fans turn on all the time as I can definitely hear them. I am thinking this might be a PO change and it is wired some other way... Not sure though. That's as far as I got tonight.

  2. #32
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2011

    Location:  Colorado Springs

    Posts:    19

    My VIN:    3297

    After measuring on the correct ECU pin, I had battery voltage, but not what I'd expect. I had almost a 2v drop at the ECU. Measuring the resistance between the fuse and the ECU it tested OK. Measuring the resistance across the fuse tested OK, but really it was too high. Fuse #1 (10A) seems to have partially failed. It wasn't an open, but it also wasn't acting like a good short and was dropping some good heat across it and apparently enough to make the ignition ECU not work. I replaced the fuse with a new one, and she fired right up. I am still going to continue replacing fuses and relays, but it kind of sucks that a 10A fuse can leave you stranded and it failed in a way that basic checks seem to make check out.

    More parts incoming, should update more later.

    Thankyou all again for the help!

  3. #33
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,902

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Car died in parking lot after running, now won't start, will crank

    Glad you got it figured out. If I were you, I would seriously consider correcting the fuse box situation back there. The next owner will thank you. A Reproduction fusebox assembly is reasonably priced with modern terminals. That and New fuses will fix a lot of problem areas.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 08-10-2019 at 12:38 AM.

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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