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Thread: Heat A/C control / vacuum question

  1. #1
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    Heat A/C control / vacuum question

    Today driving the car for the first time I noticed that the heater and air conditioning controls are not allowing aor to come through the vemts. Yes the blower is running. After reading quite a few posts on here I noticed that I should check the vacuum lines. Upon doing so I found that the vacuum line running to the vacuum actuator under the glove box insert connects to a T and runs the the lower large vacuum actuator on the driver side and to the heater t ac control knob.

    That T fitting was broken and all 3 lines were just hanging.
    Easy fix. Just get a new T fitting.

    Heres the issue. The lever that opens and closes the flap that attaches to the actuator under the glove box is missing and has been modified. Take a look at the pics. A previous person took some kind of metal bracket and attached it to the shaft that opens and closes that flap. What ever they were attempting, it obviously did not work.

    Does anyone know where i can get a replacement arm? I am also attaching a photo of the piece i need that is attached to a heater box that is for sale an ebay right now for comparison purposes.

    Also does anybody recognize the bracket that they put in place of the arm which obviously broke off years ago. I'm hoping it's not needed for something on the car somewhere else.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you.
    20190807_233609.jpg20190807_234915.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Is it the same part discussed in this thread?
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17...ator-arm-broke

    If so there are some options provided.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Installed the new set of ignition wires. Not sure if that fixed it but a quick drive around the neighborhood I did not note a skip under load. I will need to do a longer drive later.

    The tail pipe AFR reads a little high at idle but seems to drop a little with higher RPM but that may just be the calibration on my tail pipe meter.

    I was really spoiled running the wideband. The wideband ran closed loop in 15 seconds from engine start. The narrow band takes a few minutes to start working and at first it creates quite an idle hunt which goes away as the engine warms up more.

    The DPI wires are shorter than the wires I removed but still nothing but #5 seemed short.

    I'm still not convinced it fixed because of my AFR readings but more testing will tell. I will resistor check the old wires later today.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Is it the same part discussed in this thread?
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17...ator-arm-broke

    If so there are some options provided.
    I have no problem fabricating a new bracket out of bar. My biggest concern is what that bracket that was put in place used for because that tail end of that bracket reminds me of what a heater cable hooks onto with its lever action. When I used to build Mustangs the heater was controlled by cables and the end of one cable would be looped and fit onto a small metal tip that looks just like that. I'm just hoping this bracket wasn't taken off of something else and put on there. What vent does this control?

  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1830 View Post
    I have no problem fabricating a new bracket out of bar. My biggest concern is what that bracket that was put in place used for because that tail end of that bracket reminds me of what a heater cable hooks onto with its lever action. When I used to build Mustangs the heater was controlled by cables and the end of one cable would be looped and fit onto a small metal tip that looks just like that. I'm just hoping this bracket wasn't taken off of something else and put on there. What vent does this control?
    Yeah, that looks non-stock compared to the other pictures. It controls a door in the air distribution housing. I haven't taken this unit apart, so I'll let others chime in on more detail.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  6. #6
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    +1

    Looks like a random piece used for manual control or an unfinished project...

  7. #7
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    I removed it today. It definatley appears to me a lever commonly fou d on a heater cabling system. Ill take photos of it today. A part of it was cut to fit the square shaft.

    I fabricated a new arm today and got it working after making the correct bends in it so it lined up with the vaccum actuator arm.

    After fixing that and replacing the broken T fitting, i now have air out of the center and side vents.

    Im now trying to diagnose why im not getting andthing from the defrosters. So far i found and fixed 2 broken vacuum fittings. Are there any vacuum fittings on the hoses that.control the defroster flap opening?

  8. #8
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1830 View Post
    Are there any vacuum fittings on the hoses that.control the defroster flap opening?
    Check out this thread in the Resources Section:
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...m-hose-diagram

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date:  Mar 2019

    Location:  Pittsburgh

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    Thanks Ron that answered my question. It looks like the defroster is just controlled by a single vacuum tube running from the top actuator to the control knob with no other lines branching off in between that.

    This site and everybody on here has helped me tremendously. Thank you for all your replies.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Senior Member hippieman9's Avatar
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    My VIN:    06668 81' Grey interior, 5 speed, Grooved hood. Previous owner of 16301, in 2001. Found Nov 2019, a

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1830 View Post
    Today driving the car for the first time I noticed that the heater and air conditioning controls are not allowing aor to come through the vemts. Yes the blower is running. After reading quite a few posts on here I noticed that I should check the vacuum lines. Upon doing so I found that the vacuum line running to the vacuum actuator under the glove box insert connects to a T and runs the the lower large vacuum actuator on the driver side and to the heater t ac control knob.

    That T fitting was broken and all 3 lines were just hanging.
    Easy fix. Just get a new T fitting.

    Heres the issue. The lever that opens and closes the flap that attaches to the actuator under the glove box is missing and has been modified. Take a look at the pics. A previous person took some kind of metal bracket and attached it to the shaft that opens and closes that flap. What ever they were attempting, it obviously did not work.

    Does anyone know where i can get a replacement arm? I am also attaching a photo of the piece i need that is attached to a heater box that is for sale an ebay right now for comparison purposes.

    Also does anybody recognize the bracket that they put in place of the arm which obviously broke off years ago. I'm hoping it's not needed for something on the car somewhere else.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you.
    20190807_233609.jpg20190807_234915.jpg
    This is the part you need, https://store.delorean.com/p-7624-housing-air-dist.aspx

    Unfortunately you can’t get the arm by itself, that I know of, I recently had the actuator break on mine, almost bought this piece myself, just for that part, but ended up repairing it with a piece of PEX pipe.

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