2019 plastic expansion tank options

[FABombjoy]

Nothing beats homemade.

Haha, is there a particular flavor of gatoraid that comes in a 20psi-rated bottle?

[Timeless]

Haha, is there a particular flavor of gatoraid that comes in a 20psi-rated bottle?

Maybe the 'G ZERO' iteration.

[Drive Stainless]

Where is your IAT sensor located currently? I need to relocate mine. I was thinking inside of one of the pontoons.

Thanks for the lead! Matt D is running a Volvo tank, so it looks like there should be a few different options out there to test. I'd like a tank I can check the level on more easily so now seemed the time.

Reviewing data from a couple of cars it's amazing how little time it takes for heat soak to set in. The side of the IC neares the tank feels hotter. IATs get to a certain point and never really ever come back down, even with extended highway speed driving. Slowly working on a duct / pusher fan setup but wanted to make a few smaller changes and study efficacy.

I do have a roll of magic gold tape too but I was saving that for last

[FABombjoy]

Mine is is a separate, small pipe post-IC. It's relatively thermally isolated from the intake manifold.

Patrick's car we put it right in the lower airbox.

In the pontoon it might become more of an ambient air temp sensor than intake air temp.

[dmcnc]

I believe Arran from Deloreango might have a used repro if you're still interested.

[DeLoreanGo Arran]

I do, but it isn't suitable for pressurised systems.

Over here there a few people using a Volvo plastic tank, Volvo part 1276040 (replaced by 3547466 ). This requires no drilling as the bracket can use the existing mounts - just a slight modification to the hose.

[David T]

One idea is to move the tank into the pontoon and cut a hole for the pressure cap. Then connect an overflow tank to the overflow and keep the header tank filled and watch the level in the overflow tank. That is what Lotus did and they put the overflow tank in the R/R wheel well. Another thing Lotus did was put a fan in the engine cover controlled by a thermostat to reduce heat soak. On the V-8's they also put an electric recirculating pump in and the ECU controlled it and the rad fans to get rid of heat soak. For more passive solutions use heat shields and heat wrap tape. On old Jaguars they porcelainized the exhaust manifolds to reduce radiated heat.

[FABombjoy]

Over here there a few people using a Volvo plastic tank, Volvo part 1276040 (replaced by 3547466 ). This requires no drilling as the bracket can use the existing mounts - just a slight modification to the hose.

Thanks for that! This tank was actually on my short list as it seemed like it would work for all the above reasons.

Do you know if people are using the green 1.5b cap? I saw a reference to a very uncommon white cap rated at 1b but a quick search came up empty.

[DeLoreanGo Arran]

The cap is 1357776 - which is the correct 15lb / 1 bar one. Obviously you don't want the 1.5 bar one. Colours do vary, but generally it is white, yes - some aftermarket ones are black, I think some are even yellow. Generally the green ones are 22PSI/1.5bar - you don't want that...

Although it is used on the various normal Volvos (the usual ones that we are all familiar with) its main use these days is on a boat engine, and this diagram might help - http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/...90-15204B.aspx - in some cases you will need to buy the bracket separately - I can't remember off the top of my head how it attaches on the car - as mentioned the only real issue is the hose outlet which just needs a reducer to get to the correct size.

[Drive Stainless]

Thanks for that! This tank was actually on my short list as it seemed like it would work for all the above reasons.

Do you know if people are using the green 1.5b cap? I saw a reference to a very uncommon white cap rated at 1b but a quick search came up empty.

First, I like that tank Arran posted because the mounting would be simplified, at least compared with what I had to fashion to make the Volvo 940 tank work.

Second, I've been running the green cap for about a year now. If you have an original car with original hoses, you may be more likely to burst one, but ideally the cooling system should hold much more pressure than its normal operating pressure. There isn't anything different about the hoses and clamps and radiators used on the green cap-designated cars.