FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
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Thread: New Owner Check this out

  1. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2017

    Posts:    166

    That car looks really clean and original. Looks like someone removed the throttle body recall/de-ice recall kit (metal guard to keep it dry to prevent freezing in cold weather). In terms of modifications, I would replace the plastic header bottle with a stainless steel one as well as the nearly 40 year old rubber fuel lines with stainless steel ones. Change all fluids, brakes probably need to be all redone, your fuel system is probably in trouble, maybe a 30K major service kit, and that's just the beginning. The rule of thumb if having a vendor do the work to get a non-running DeLorean in good running order is about 1K per year that the car sat. I think these numbers are inflated, but it is not hard for the bills to add up, especially once you get it running, and other things start to manifest themselves. Good luck with your decision. If you do decide to bring it back to life, this community is probably one of the best in the collector car arena. The vendor support is also second to none.

  2. #22
    Member Giamanut's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Location:  Spokane

    Posts:    97

    My VIN:    5051

    Hi just an update.
    I finish the brakes and changed the clutch master cylinder as well as the fuel pump and sending unit. The tank was pretty dirty.
    Next up accumulator and fuel filter, clean injectors and replace injector seals. Then I can put some fuel in it!
    I have some electrical issues but I will start by cleaning a lot of grounds and connections. I expect to get my first start in about a week as work does get in the way!

  3. #23
    Member Giamanut's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Location:  Spokane

    Posts:    97

    My VIN:    5051

    Quote Originally Posted by Hill Valley PD View Post
    That car looks really clean and original. Looks like someone removed the throttle body recall/de-ice recall kit (metal guard to keep it dry to prevent freezing in cold weather). In terms of modifications, I would replace the plastic header bottle with a stainless steel one as well as the nearly 40 year old rubber fuel lines with stainless steel ones. Change all fluids, brakes probably need to be all redone, your fuel system is probably in trouble, maybe a 30K major service kit, and that's just the beginning. The rule of thumb if having a vendor do the work to get a non-running DeLorean in good running order is about 1K per year that the car sat. I think these numbers are inflated, but it is not hard for the bills to add up, especially once you get it running, and other things start to manifest themselves. Good luck with your decision. If you do decide to bring it back to life, this community is probably one of the best in the collector car arena. The vendor support is also second to none.
    Yes but that would amount to a 21k bill so not gonna happen. I will do as much as possible with the help I get here I am currently moving right along. Thanks for the reply!

  4. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2017

    Posts:    166

    Quote Originally Posted by Giamanut View Post
    Yes but that would amount to a 21k bill so not gonna happen. I will do as much as possible with the help I get here I am currently moving right along. Thanks for the reply!
    It sounds like you know what you are doing, so you will save a ton of money. You have decided to bring it to life after all? Awesome! I would definitely change out and/or clean the fuses and relays. Electrical box is located under the parcel shelf behind passenger seat. You will have to manipulate the plywood piece that is behind the seats by tugging it toward the front of the car while pulling the shelf upward. Took me a while to figure it out. You can purchase all new fuses and relays from the vendors. It's a couple hundred dollars but probably worth it since who knows the last time any of that was done.

    New Owner Recommendations from DMC MW (a bit overkill on times but nothing hard or expensive):

    Use a battery maintainer if car is going to sit longer than a few weeks, not a trickle charger.

    Engine oil is Castrol GT 20W50, 7 quarts, every 3K or 12 months. Once a year - do in Fall before Winter storage.

    Coolant is Prestone Universal Green mixed 50-50. Coolant flush takes two gallons, i.e. 4 gallons mixed. Change every 2 years.

    Automatic trans. fluid is Dextron III, 4 quarts
    Trans. oil is 75W90
    Change every 5 years. 4 quarts

    Brake and clutch fluid is Catrol GT LMA DOT 4
    Change every 2 years

    Tire pressure is 24 front, 30 rear

    Clean/replace fuses every 2 years

  5. #25
    Banned Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    3,811

    Quote Originally Posted by Giamanut View Post
    Yes but that would amount to a 21k bill so not gonna happen. I will do as much as possible with the help I get here I am currently moving right along. Thanks for the reply!
    If the car was stored correctly, you can get it running far easier. I agree the 1k a year is inflated and based on a vendor doing all the work as well as supplying parts. If you know what you are doing, I bet you could get the car running and driving fairly easily but the coming months of "shake down" cruises will no doubt shed light on more issues to be addressed before you consider it a top tier car.

  6. #26
    Member Giamanut's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Location:  Spokane

    Posts:    97

    My VIN:    5051

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    If the car was stored correctly, you can get it running far easier. I agree the 1k a year is inflated and based on a vendor doing all the work as well as supplying parts. If you know what you are doing, I bet you could get the car running and driving fairly easily but the coming months of "shake down" cruises will no doubt shed light on more issues to be addressed before you consider it a top tier car.
    Thank you and I totally agree with that, I am finding Items as I go but the lack of corrosion and general condition is remarkable considering how long it sat.
    The electrical seems to have suffered somewhat, chasing down and cleaning all the ground wire are on my list.
    I know there are mods out there for fans headlight etc but I wonder if I should do them or just keep it totally original problems and all? Any thoughts on that?
    It would be hard to keep the radiator original as I think it will need to go away.

  7. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jul 2017

    Posts:    166

    Yes, that is a vendor quote about 1K per year of sitting provided they do/provide EVERYTHING at $125/hour labor.

    In terms of mods, my car came with the Eibach Springs/Spax Shocks. This was sold as a suspension upgrade kit from DMC Texas and lowers the car to its intended height, while improving ride and handling. Many vendors (DeLoreanGo, DPI, DMC etc.) sell suspension upgrade kits, and I recommend them since it improves the look of the car a lot (no more high front end/huge wheel to fender gap). My other deviations from stock are CD player (wish I had original Craig), stainless steel clutch/fuel lines, as well as exterior and interior LEDs (minus gauge cluster and headlights). The reason I did the latter is I wanted to leave the doors open at car shows and not drain the battery, and my taillight boards were finicky, so I replaced them. It was sort of, "Well, if I do this, then I should do that." I have not done LEDs in the gauges (did AC panel) because I am not confident enough to take the dash apart. I also did not do the headlights because I haven't found any I really like that don't look cheesy. It depends if you want to keep the car as original as possible. Bear in mind, there have been aftermarket improvements to many things originally on the car that improve reliability and drivability, so it depends what you are after. If going completely stock, your JVC tape deck would not have come in there. All '81s used Craigs, and ASI on later '82's and all 83's.
    Last edited by Hill Valley PD; 10-04-2019 at 09:37 AM.

  8. #28
    Member Giamanut's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Location:  Spokane

    Posts:    97

    My VIN:    5051

    Quote Originally Posted by Hill Valley PD View Post
    Yes, that is a vendor quote about 1K per year of sitting provided they do/provide EVERYTHING at $125/hour labor.

    In terms of mods, my car came with the Eibach Springs/Spax Shocks. This was sold as a suspension upgrade kit from DMC Texas and lowers the car to its intended height, while improving ride and handling. Many vendors (DeLoreanGo, DPI, DMC etc.) sell suspension upgrade kits, and I recommend them since it improves the look of the car a lot (no more high front end/huge wheel to fender gap). My other deviations from stock are CD player (wish I had original Craig), stainless steel clutch/fuel lines, as well as exterior and interior LEDs (minus gauge cluster and headlights). The reason I did the latter is I wanted to leave the doors open at car shows and not drain the battery, and my taillight boards were finicky, so I replaced them. It was sort of, "Well, if I do this, then I should do that." I have not done LEDs in the gauges (did AC panel) because I am not confident enough to take the dash apart. I also did not do the headlights because I haven't found any I really like that don't look cheesy. It depends if you want to keep the car as original as possible. Bear in mind, there have been aftermarket improvements to many things originally on the car that improve reliability and drivability, so it depends what you are after. If going completely stock, your JVC tape deck would not have come in there. All '81s used Craigs, and ASI on later '82's and all 83's.
    Yeah I caught that JVC also but didn't know if it was some kind of up sell from DeLorean. Thanks
    As far as LED and lowering goes well I wish the whole car was euro spec but we will see.

  9. #29
    Member Giamanut's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Location:  Spokane

    Posts:    97

    My VIN:    5051

    So I get a whole day and a half to work on the D this weekend! Whooo Hoooo !
    My to do list is not to bad.
    Going to put some fuel in the tank and disconnect the fuel filter/flush lines to that point.
    R and R the accumulator and install new fuel filter.
    Flush the system up to the fuel dis then start checking the return lines
    Button up the fuel system up to the injectors.
    Remove the injectors for cleaning, and test for even fuel flow from fuel dis.
    Clean all the ground I can find!
    Remove the spark plugs and oil the cylinders.
    Crank the Engine!!!!!!!!
    Then after lunch!

  10. #30
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,135

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Giamanut View Post
    Then after lunch!
    Hopefully...

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