need Updated info on common headlight switch problems and replacement parts

[ttwo]

My headlight switch isn't getting hot but it simply doesn't always want to shut off. the switching mechanism is likely sticky or something. I understand that many people have had them melt apparently because of the amps that run through the switch so one of the fixes for that is a bypass relay to take the brunt of the current.
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But they are out of these so I see that other stores have an 'upgraded' version. Does this fix the problem with the current overload as well?
or here as well

[WHO1DMC]

I have the headlight switch bypass kit from Delorean go.
DPNW has one as well both under $10. You will have to cut into the wires behind the plug of the switch and install taps. I like that a lot of the power goes through a relay not the switch.


Dave B.

[dn010]

Really all you need to do is go get a relay and a socket and wire it in. There are mods you can do as well like turn the lights off when you turn the key off without pressing the headlight switch back to the off position, make the AC panel lights go on with the headlight switch instead of being permanently on, etc.

[r00b]

I don't know why some melt, it may be corrosion on the pugs? I've had the original lightswitch, the only trouble is it sticks between parking lights and headlights. The unit most the vendors sell is drop in replacement for the original. You can add a relay if you are concerned of it melting. The listing does say "beefed-up internals" so the relay may not be necessary.

The dmch unit I believe are modified hazard switches with the locking mechanism removed, a button with the headlight decal, and an electronics box so the switch can be used to activate the headlights. To use the switch you will have to modify the wiring. I would steer clear of any dmch repro parts, the quality can be questionable.

[Rich]

My headlight switch isn't getting hot but it simply doesn't always want to shut off. the switching mechanism is likely sticky or something.

Yes, the switch can sometimes degrade to the point where the internal toggle won't latch properly when you push the switch to engage the next of the 3 operating modes.

If you are careful you can disassemble and clean the switch/mechanism, then pop it back together which probably will fix the no-shutoff problem. It's kind of a puzzle inside but it can be done.

As noted, that problem is unrelated to the problem that the switch relay upgrade addresses. The bypass relay is a good upgrade even if your switch isn't hot. Yet.

[dn010]

Was going to edit this into my post but others posted as well. There may be a how-to guide here but this is the one I used, back in the day.

https://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html

[ttwo]

if I can simply get one of the drop in replacement ones that are 'beefed up' and not have to do a relay I would prefer that. I'm simply tired of getting stuck trying to turn off my lights for 15 minutes because the switch won't work right.

[Bitsyncmaster]

if I can simply get one of the drop in replacement ones that are 'beefed up' and not have to do a relay I would prefer that. I'm simply tired of getting stuck trying to turn off my lights for 15 minutes because the switch won't work right.

I would think the original type would be fine without a relay if you reduce the load current by installing LEDs. Front and rear running lights, side lights and binnacle lights, HVAC lights.

[Rich]

if I can simply get one of the drop in replacement ones that are 'beefed up' and not have to do a relay I would prefer that. I'm simply tired of getting stuck trying to turn off my lights for 15 minutes because the switch won't work right.

Yes, a beefed up switch, whatever that amounts to, should do.

The problem in your case is the switch hardware/mechanism. I've had a version of that problem happen to the original and then to my first replacement switch despite the relay upgrade. I agree it's no fun cycling the switch repeatedly until it decides to latch in on the next mode. Or not.

The part inside your switch that needs to rotate or move in order to latch the switch to the OFF position is hung up for some reason. Nothing to do with the relay, as you say.

[DMC-81]

Yes, a beefed up switch, whatever that amounts to, should do.

The problem in your case is the switch hardware/mechanism. I've had a version of that problem happen to the original and then to my first replacement switch despite the relay upgrade. I agree it's no fun cycling the switch repeatedly until it decides to latch in on the next mode. Or not.

The part inside your switch that needs to rotate or move in order to latch the switch to the OFF position is hung up for some reason. Nothing to do with the relay, as you say.

Agreed. I had both headlight and hazard switches apart to install LED's in them and the way the headlight switch works is that there is a little wire cage that travels along a plastic channel as you depress the switch. It stops in 3 places, giving you the 3 modes. If the wire or plastic is deformed, or dry (as it has a little lithium grease), this could be your problem. Even if you decide to get a new switch, I would gently take apart the old one, make sure it is free moving, refresh the grease, and clean the contacts. You may find that this little maintenance process is all you need.

I tried to find pictures but apparently I didn't upload them to my albums.