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Thread: Yahtzee Flux Capacitor Help Needed

  1. #1
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    Yahtzee Flux Capacitor Help Needed

    Although I'd rather have a Diamond Select, I am working with this Yahtzee Flux Capacitor. This was a sealed unit that I opened and tried out to install in my car, and to my surprise I found that this apparently only lights when the unit is shaken and repeats in a series of 7 blinks then stops until it is shaken again. I can hear a sort of inertia switch inside it that activates it but don't know what part operates that function. Does anyone know how I can rig this to keep blinking constantly when turned on?
    IMG_7239.jpgIMG_7240.jpgIMG_7241.jpgIMG_7242.jpgIMG_7246.jpg

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    In your second picture on the circuit board is a component labeled SW1. My guess is that it is switch #1. Try jumpering it with a paper clip and see if that does it. If it does you can solder in some wires leading to a switch you can put into the side of the case.
    David Teitelbaum

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    Did you find that information in the factory service manual, Dave?
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralLee01 View Post
    Although I'd rather have a Diamond Select, I am working with this Yahtzee Flux Capacitor. This was a sealed unit that I opened and tried out to install in my car, and to my surprise I found that this apparently only lights when the unit is shaken and repeats in a series of 7 blinks then stops until it is shaken again. I can hear a sort of inertia switch inside it that activates it but don't know what part operates that function. Does anyone know how I can rig this to keep blinking constantly when turned on?
    IMG_7239.jpgIMG_7240.jpgIMG_7241.jpgIMG_7242.jpgIMG_7246.jpg
    That is a great little idea. I may have to steal it. I like how it fits right in the coin tray too. Yes, the Diamond Select one is the right size, but the lights are blueish, and the casing is way too light. It is not worth the money IMO unless you modify it to look more screen accurate. For a screen accurate one, check out Columbe Industries who is a well-known builder of full Time Machine Replicas. I know of at least one owner who has purchased one from him, and it looked great. Bob's Prop Shop also sells replicas as well. Both options are expensive though. If you get yours working off a switch, please post it.

  5. #5
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    I have a small one that fits into the lighter socket. When someone notices it is smaller than the one in the movie I just tell them that in the future we have figured out how to make them smaller and more powerful.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    In your second picture on the circuit board is a component labeled SW1. My guess is that it is switch #1. Try jumpering it with a paper clip and see if that does it. If it does you can solder in some wires leading to a switch you can put into the side of the case.
    +1. Given the side view photo, it looks like a switch is soldered into the other side. Not sure if that is the inertia switch or just and on/off to disable it, but it certainly looks like a switch. Always a risk when shorting something without being 100% sure, but it looks like it should be safe to try.
    David Proehl

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    In the second photo, the 5 solder points near where it says S1 are connected to the 5 posts going to the on/off switch on the other side. I am not sure that is the part of this unit that activates the blinking though. Wherever the jiggling sound is coming from I would think is where the circuit needs to be jumped. Could it be coming from inside the cylindrical blue capacitor? Or the U1 computer chip?

  8. #8
    Senior Member DavidProehl's Avatar
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    Is the blue capacitor connected to what is labeled SW2? If so, perhaps you are right, maybe that is the inertia switch and is switch #2. Does the blue capacitor thing have a part number on it you could google to confirm that suspicion? If it is, you'd just need to add a wire that goes around it.
    David Proehl

  9. #9
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
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    Axial leaded caps went out of style in the 80's. I would be SHOCKED (ha) to see one in a modern design - they're somewhat available still but typically at much higher cost than leaded or surface mount. It is probably a switch.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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    I tried jumping the blue SW2 with a wire, and it immediately activates the blinking sequence without shaking the whole flux capacitor. However, once it runs through the 7 blink cycle, it stops again until you remove the wire and touch it back together again so it is not a solution. Unfortunately we will not be fluxing for the Halloween parade tonight.

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