You should be able to get that to print smooth without the visible facets. What design software are you using?Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 245
My VIN: 16795
You should be able to get that to print smooth without the visible facets. What design software are you using?
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 45
My VIN: 6895
The part was built with visible facets. It just needs to be subdivided more before the booleans for the lettering and it’ll work great.
Did you use one of my layouts or make a new one for that print? It looks good! I think you were just having cupping issues.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
I'm using TinkerCAD. That very basic software does not let me set a finer ball with smaller facets.
I did the preform over myself. I learned I can remove the internal supports that the auto support insisted on putting in.
The ball gets machined on my lathe anyway to remove the white epoxy I pour into that box around the letters. The supports leave a little chip anyway which also has to be machined off.
The service rep at FormLabs agrees with me that my problem was cleaning the inside of the resin tray with alcohol.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 01-07-2020 at 06:01 AM.
Posts: 17
Is it possible to 3D print a replacement grill for the DeLorean? Or would that be too big of an item to print as one piece?
Been trying to see about having a custom grill printed, have found lots of options but not many specifics for price and durability. Could just be that I dont know the right questions to ask.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
They make 3D printers of any size but most hobby priced units have about a 10" length limit.
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 504
My VIN: Yes.
Club(s): (DCO) (DMA) (DCUK)
I was just discussing this this morning. You can get very large mixed media units. Of course, for the same price, you could buy a house with a multi car garage and a bunch of Ds to go in them.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
Here are some photos of my last 3D print. I will try printing one inverted because it was hard to machine the side where it mounts in my lathe. Printing upside down will leave the ball shape with just miner filing and sanding. I also have to make my hex insert fit tighter so the ball is centered on my lathe as it was centered in the 3D print. Also will add a small ring in the center of the ball so I can setup my radius machine tool. So rather than pour the white epoxy on the outside, I will be pouring it on the side and machine the printed cover off the outside since it's easy to machine that end of the ball. Also those support rods the 3D printer needs did make a small chip in the ball so maybe cutting that end off will prevent that.
I offset the "decal" 10 degrees from the top. I will put this ball in my car and decide if I should have more offset. This ball is completely functional though with the proper 8mm threaded insert.
It will still take some minor hand sanding to remove the marks when sanding in the lathe which I did not do on this ball.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 01-09-2020 at 06:51 PM.
Location: Poland
Posts: 125
My VIN: 3771
https://top3dshop.com/product/modix-120x-3d-printer
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
I think it will look better with the "decal" tilted to 15 degrees rather than the 10 degree I had. It looks like the stock shift ball also was tilted at 10 degrees.
This photo was with the gear in neutral.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
Well I printed another ball with the lettering to be poured on the inside. But I forgot I need to clean out all the liquid resin before poring the white epoxy and you have a hard time doing that with only a small hole to inject solvent into and blow out.
Anyway it printed fine with no problems so I will use this to test my machining an fit.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Dave M vin 03572