3D printer

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hey there, Don’t leave the tank in the printer when you’re not actively printing. Store in in the orange and black storage case that it came in. I’ve been STRONGLY advised this by the Form3 team from when I was originally beta testing the printer to the final model today.

That’s why they give the storage cases with the tanks now.

I was thinking about that when I first got my printer but thought since both the storage container and the printer have the orange plastic covers I assume filters out the UV light. You just have to be careful to not tip the tank removing it because it's still full of resin.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I ran a couple fast prints with the cleaned resin tank and they worked. So I started another gear ball. I was watching as it prints and I see after it exposes a layer, it slowly pulls up the base plate until it senses it pulled off the bottom of the resin tank. Sometimes it pulls off very quickly and sometimes it has to pull a lot higher and the tank makes a thud when it pulls off. So I wonder if it did that before I cleaned the tank.

Anyway that make me think it's better to place the part in the back near the edge centered on the platform. That should make it release the layer faster and result in faster print times. It does take longer when the layer sticks hard to the resin tank.

Edit:
Now the base is above the resin level and it it pulling up very quick with no noise. I wonder if my part fell off the base.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well that ball print failed. The part held fine on the base platform but at around layer 100 it pulled the next layer off the part so it stuck to the resin tank. I emailed form labs asking them what could have happened. Maybe my cleaning the old resin tank with alcohol did something. So I'm waiting on the new resin tank to try it again. I hope they arrive today.

[megamanex]

It isn't because of the covering of UV light. The recommendation is because if the lower transparent layer fails while not in use in the printer it won't pour resin all inside the bed of the printer and potentially void your warranty. Do what you will but unlike the form 2 they don't recommend keeping the tray in the printer when not in use.

[megamanex]

Can you send screenshots of your form file? Sound like you may be creating cups with the print which is causing the part to stick on the tank bottom.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It isn't because of the covering of UV light. The recommendation is because if the lower transparent layer fails while not in use in the printer it won't pour resin all inside the bed of the printer and potentially void your warranty. Do what you will but unlike the form 2 they don't recommend keeping the tray in the printer when not in use.

Thanks for that. That does make sense.

My gear ball print has a hole from the base to about 3/4 up to the top and the print failed about 1/4 of the way or less. I could send you the STL and FORM files if you think you could help. I would need your email address. I did another ball a few days ago that was almost the same design and it printed fine.

I placed the print near the back left corner which I have been doing for all my prints. I wonder if things would work better to place it in the center of the base platform.

[megamanex]

Thanks for that. That does make sense.

My gear ball print has a hole from the base to about 3/4 up to the top and the print failed about 1/4 of the way or less. I could send you the STL and FORM files if you think you could help. I would need your email address. I did another ball a few days ago that was almost the same design and it printed fine.

I placed the print near the back left corner which I have been doing for all my prints. I wonder if things would work better to place it in the center of the base platform.

I just messaged you on Facebook. You may need a re-orient and additional supports at the lower end of the print. Position on platform hasn’t ever mattered for me on printing.

[megamanex]

Two modified form files sent your way with explanations!

I can run them on my end if you send me the file without the cube embedded but you should be able to test on your end. I'm sure they'll print fine in the two options I've given you.

[Citizen]

Is anyone on here who has a 3D printer interested in making something for me, for a fee of course? Rather than buying a printer myself, I think it would be cheaper for me to just pay someone who has a printer, if I could get the design to them. I have to research design software first and convert my hand drawings to electronic. Someone on here suggested Fusion 360 by Autodesk. I think I'll look into that.

What I need is a 3-gauge holder that can be mounted under-dash. The gauges are digital, and so they are rectangular, not round. Plastic would be acceptable, I think, but it would need to be a very sturdy plastic. The actual monolithic part would be about 10 inches wide, and maybe 3 inches tall and 3 inches deep, with holes, and so I don't think it would take very much material. I already have a part made out of metal that I made myself in my garage, but I did it the old way...by cutting and shaping metal from a piece of raw stock (sheet metal). My metal version will work, but it's not very good and doesn't hold the gauges sturdy because I cut the holes slightly too large. And of course, it looks home-made (which it is).

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to how I get started with making one of these by 3D printing? Sorry to hijack, but I thought I'd ask here since there was already a discussion on 3D printing.

Thanks.
Thomas

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Finally got my 3D print to work. I'm convinced my cleaning the resin tray in alcohol made the print layers stick to the resin tray. Here is a photo of how it comes out of the printer.