FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
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Thread: #4322 mods

  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Brisbane, QLD, AU

    Posts:    63

    My VIN:    4322

    Hello Mike

    Thanks for the info and the diagram.

    I was wanting to keep the frequency valve as I have a cabin switch which sends a full throttle signal to the frequency valve, to richen the mixtures (simulating the WOT switch at the throttle spool).

    I have been looking for info on removing the frequency valve but couldn't find much...do you have any links or further information about this? What happens to the stock frequency valve and piping?

    I do have the B28E fuel distributor but it'll need to be refurbished.

  2. #12
    Not a self styled 'Guru'
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Surrey, United Kingdom

    Posts:    172

    My VIN:    04708

    If you use the B28E fuel distributor the frequency valve and piping, and WOT switch are removed from the equation as they are not used, along with the lambda system.
    DeLorean Club

    The Future's Bright....
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  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Brisbane, QLD, AU

    Posts:    63

    My VIN:    4322

    Over our summer, I finally go around to replacing the starter solenoid. When trying to start the car when hot, I'd get a "click" and that was it. Usually took a few tries to start. Traced this back to the starter solenoid. While I considered replacing the whole starter, I managed to find 2x NOS solenoids, Paris-Rhone part# CEDY-438, on Ebay. Since I have headers, it was easy enough to just remove the solenoid and replace with a new one. Even though it's the same part number, the DeLorean solenoid uses a bullet connector, but the NOS had a spade connector - easy enough to change over without touching the original harness.

    Also, finally fitted a B28E Control Pressure Regulator, Bosch part# 0-438-140-038. I had a junkyard one from a Volvo, and exchanged my core with Colin at https://k-jet.biz/ for a rebuilt unit. Interestingly this has a machined lower half, with an adjustment screw. Since Colin sets the pressures on a bench, I didn't touch the adjustment screw. He knows his K-jet stuff - highly recommended if you need a rebuilt fuel distributor or CPR.

    As per http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=495, I've left the top port on the CPR open. A quick test drive with vacuum connected to the test port was very sluggish compared to leaving it open. From my research, the -038 CPR has lower cold and warm control pressures.

    One day I'll get it on a dyno...

  4. #14
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

    Posts:    494

    My VIN:    4502

    Quote Originally Posted by Lukas View Post
    Over our summer, I finally go around to replacing the starter solenoid. When trying to start the car when hot, I'd get a "click" and that was it. Usually took a few tries to start. Traced this back to the starter solenoid. While I considered replacing the whole starter, I managed to find 2x NOS solenoids, Paris-Rhone part# CEDY-438, on Ebay. Since I have headers, it was easy enough to just remove the solenoid and replace with a new one. Even though it's the same part number, the DeLorean solenoid uses a bullet connector, but the NOS had a spade connector - easy enough to change over without touching the original harness.

    Also, finally fitted a B28E Control Pressure Regulator, Bosch part# 0-438-140-038. I had a junkyard one from a Volvo, and exchanged my core with Colin at https://k-jet.biz/ for a rebuilt unit. Interestingly this has a machined lower half, with an adjustment screw. Since Colin sets the pressures on a bench, I didn't touch the adjustment screw. He knows his K-jet stuff - highly recommended if you need a rebuilt fuel distributor or CPR.

    As per http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=495, I've left the top port on the CPR open. A quick test drive with vacuum connected to the test port was very sluggish compared to leaving it open. From my research, the -038 CPR has lower cold and warm control pressures.

    One day I'll get it on a dyno...
    the volvo WUR should be connected to manifold vacuum..
    VIN 4502

  5. #15
    Not a self styled 'Guru'
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Surrey, United Kingdom

    Posts:    172

    My VIN:    04708

    Quote Originally Posted by Lukas View Post
    As per http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=495, I've left the top port on the CPR open. A quick test drive with vacuum connected to the test port was very sluggish compared to leaving it open. From my research, the -038 CPR has lower cold and warm control pressures.
    The info in that topic has been superseded, check this topic: http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewto...&t=5937#p78083


    Quote Originally Posted by BABIS View Post
    the volvo WUR should be connected to manifold vacuum..
    Correct.
    DeLorean Club

    The Future's Bright....
    The Future's DeLorean Club

  6. #16
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Brisbane, QLD, AU

    Posts:    63

    My VIN:    4322

    Thanks guys, I must have been looking at the old info. Seems easy enough to connect the top port directly to the manifold vacuum.

  7. #17
    Delorean Guru
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    Location:  Northern NJ

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    The purpose of connecting the WUR (aka control pressure regulator, aka CPR) to manifold vacuum is so it can sense that the engine is called upon to produce a spurt of power such as during acceleration. During that period the manifold vacuum drops. The WUR senses that and changes the control pressure to deliver a spurt of additional fuel akin to what an accelerator pump on a carburetor does. I can't tell you how to hook up a WUR that is not the stock one for the Delorean but that top port, in a Delorean at least, is supposed to be exposed to atmospheric pressure so it can measure the difference between atmospheric pressure and manifold vacuum. You may have to experiment to get it right or consult the documentation on the particular WUR you are trying to use. Understand that these fuel system parts are specifically tailored to work in certain applications and although they may look alike they are calibrated to operate differently. That is why they have special numbers on them. Somewhere there is a chart that tells you what car each part fits on. In some cases parts can be re-calibrated to work in different cars. In the Service Manual there is a chart that tells you what the WUR is supposed to do when it is cold, during warm-up, and when it gets hot. You need a fuel pressure gauge to watch the control pressure as the WUR warms up.
    David Teitelbaum

  8. #18
    Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2012

    Location:  Brisbane, QLD, AU

    Posts:    63

    My VIN:    4322

    Recently noticed my coolant level dropping, and couldn't see a leak on the floor.

    Went into the VOD, and this is what I found.

    All 4 of the deep valley holes full of coolant and oil. Worst one is the top right, but they all have oil and metal looking particles in then.

    VOD was dry 5 years ago, so this is block rot.

    Haven't decided what to do yet.
    Attached Images

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