Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
I did an ms years ago on a mustang 2.3L LIMA engine that I turbo'ed fun project,
But I do see people gutting the air mixture removing the sense plate and all that but couldn't a person just flip the Rams horn upside down, make an adapter plate for it, and install a Mustang or LS throttle body Maybe even one with an IAC and Throttle position sensor. Or am I way off base with this line of thought!
You’d want something of comparable throttle size otherwise you’ll lose the ability to control output. But a drop-in adapter for a junkyard throttle body would definitely be nice.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Can you guys post pics of your cam sensor pickups and your crank sensor setups. These are both hard parts I still need to figure out .
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http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...-s-20-year-nap
I just used my stock distributor and put msextra in the megasquirt to do the odd fire of the engine. Also later on you could always install some throttle bodys like i did on mine.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
The OEM flywheel pickup doesn't actually work. Coil negative is the fastest way to get up and running. TBH I'm not sure that there is a big advantage to full spark control on a non-turbo, stock cam motor. Other than with MS3 you can implement idle advance control which can make the B28F idle more smoothly than you'd think possible.
Hypothetically if you want programmable spark retard (partial control including some idle advance)
EITHER
-Connect MS coil in put to stock coil negative
-Move coil negative wire to tach adapter / relay coil / some passive method of generating inductive spike
OR
-Connect VR output from distributor to MS (you may have to tweak the VR conditioner, including an in-line resistor addition for both high and low RPM)
THEN
-Connect MS output to ignition coil.
-Flatten spark map table to something like 10 degrees? Then re-phase distributor until TDC idle is 13 degrees. Now you can retard spark up to whatever flat value is in the table. You can also add advance under certain conditions and dial-back others to stock.
Full spark control from distributor signal:
-Remove vac advance, weld & lock out distributor
-Connect VR output to MS
-Connect MS to ignition coul
-Set spark table to stock map and phase distributor until 13deg idle
This works but after seeing the size of the pole piece in the VR circuit I don't think its high precision.
Crank / cam sensors:
There are a lot of ways but the 36-1 wheel is probably the most common. For cam signal you could pick it up in the distributor, or find an oil-rated gear sensor and pick up the mechanical fuel pump lobe on the passenger side head. Or make up some custom piece that sits behind one of the cam covers. I removed the circuit from my distributor and modded the pole piece into a half-moon wheel. The advantage here is changing the sensor is a 5 minute job. Fuel pump lobe would probably be just about as fast to change.
If you try to run ignition from a 36-1 source on an oddfire motor you absolutely need cam phase too or half of your engine will run with incorrect timing.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection