Idle Speed Motor ***SPLIT from Liner Seals***

[Giamanut]

Yes with the motor in your hand, you will know it never shuts off.

FYI:

The smaller Volvo motor is much better than the OEM because it runs without dead spots and draws half the current. I run it without any bracket holding it and it stays in place just fine.

Well alright then the motor does indeed run off idle, Manual appears to be dead wrong.
So my system seem to be working correctly but trying to dial in the mixture is rough.
I have a Craftsman VOM that has a freq percent function just need to replace the battery in it and find the correct spot to hook up. I still have the diagnostic connector on the back of the engine driver side.
I am able to get 750 idle without surge but it seems to rough I think I am lean at this point curb idle screw is backed way out.
Basically I just fattened the mixture until I got black smoke on throttle blip then backed off a touch. It was smoother when rich.
Well new Tires tomorrow couple of screws here and there a little more fine tuning and she should be good to go!

[Ron]

Well alright then the motor does indeed run off idle, Manual appears to be dead wrong.
So my system seem to be working correctly but trying to dial in the mixture is rough.
I have a Craftsman VOM that has a freq percent function just need to replace the battery in it and find the correct spot to hook up. I still have the diagnostic connector on the back of the engine driver side.
I am able to get 750 idle without surge but it seems to rough I think I am lean at this point curb idle screw is backed way out.
Basically I just fattened the mixture until I got black smoke on throttle blip then backed off a touch. It was smoother when rich.
Well new Tires tomorrow couple of screws here and there a little more fine tuning and she should be good to go!

There are two places to hook up shown in the first post of THIS THREAD.
The last post has a chart showing the values to set/check/trouble shoot with, using Dwell or % DutyCycle.
(Don't use 6 cyl mode!)
Most people prefer using Dwell and an analog meter.

I'm not sure of which screw you are calling a curb idle screw...if you mean the brass screw common to both banks, it is not intended to be used on a DeLorean. (D:04:02, 19 is another place in the manual that can be misleading). All 3 brass screws should be closed.
Note ALL adjustments/settings should be done before setting the CO.

[Giamanut]

There are two places to hook up shown in the first post of THIS THREAD.
The last post has a chart showing the values to set/check/trouble shoot with, using Dwell or % DutyCycle.
(Don't use 6 cyl mode!)
Most people prefer using Dwell and an analog meter.

I'm not sure of which screw you are calling a curb idle screw...if you mean the brass screw common to both banks, it is not intended to be used on a DeLorean. (D:04:02, 19 is another place in the manual that can be misleading). All 3 brass screws should be closed.
Note ALL adjustments/settings should be done before setting the CO.

Brass screws are closed. The screw below the mircoswitch screw. just the Idle screw.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well alright then the motor does indeed run off idle, Manual appears to be dead wrong.
So my system seem to be working correctly but trying to dial in the mixture is rough.
I have a Craftsman VOM that has a freq percent function just need to replace the battery in it and find the correct spot to hook up. I still have the diagnostic connector on the back of the engine driver side.
I am able to get 750 idle without surge but it seems to rough I think I am lean at this point curb idle screw is backed way out.
Basically I just fattened the mixture until I got black smoke on throttle blip then backed off a touch. It was smoother when rich.
Well new Tires tomorrow couple of screws here and there a little more fine tuning and she should be good to go!

Most test instruments read percent backwards from an automotive meter. You can test the meter by pressing the wide open throttle. WOT should read 60%, if you read 40% then your reading backwards. So instead of setting 30% you should be setting 70% when setting the mixture with that meter.

[Giamanut]

Most test instruments read percent backwards from an automotive meter. You can test the meter by pressing the wide open throttle. WOT should read 60%, if you read 40% then your reading backwards. So instead of setting 30% you should be setting 70% when setting the mixture with that meter.

No surge 775- 750 Idle Fires right up hot warm or in-between Drives smooth!
So Renault really has the answers it would be nice to have a manual from them.
So here's what I found that cured this
Assuming no Vac leaks and Fuel pressures are good and mixture is close Lamba will comp for mixture to some degree.
1 Take the IAC motor out of the system.
2 close the brass plugs But not the one with a slot.
3 back the slotted brass Idle idle screw out until you get a RPM rise.
4 back the butterfly screw out and the micro out until butterflies are closed! Note: best done with the throttle rod disconnected.
5 screw the butterfly adjustment screw in until it touches the stop then at most another half turn,
6 monitor the vacuum at the vacuum advance and screw the Mirco switch screw in until the vacuum stops plus a half turn.
7 screw the slotted brass screw in until you very close but not above 750 RPM on the nose is best.
8 reinstall IAC motor check mixture.
Note Make sure the throttle rod/ linkage is not stopping the throttle plates/butterfly from closing fully.
This needs to be done an a warm engine.
This is what I did and the only thing I need to adjust for Idle is the brass slotted screw. So adjusting the mixture lean raises Rpm, I drop it back down with that screw.
This is from a Renault Mechanic that specializes in these engines.

[Ron]

What about the unmeasured air this introduces into the system after the metering plate (RE: Warning at D:01:13)...off idle...?

[Giamanut]

What about the unmeasured air this introduces into the system after the metering plate (RE: Warning at D:01:13)...off idle...?

So the balance screws are closed. I am using the air adjusting screw. Don't see any warning at D:01:13. but It is the same as cracking the Butterfly but a lot easier to sweet spot because there no moving parts. Also The Volvo manual does it the same way.
Oh you mean additional air when the throttle is cracked open. It would only come into play at WOT and I am not sure you could even measure it at that point. Volvo and Renault both use this way to adjust. I have P J Grady books I don't see any ill effects at all.

[Ron]

So the balance screws are closed. I am using the air adjusting screw. Don't see any warning at D:01:13. but It is the same as cracking the Butterfly but a lot easier to sweet spot because there no moving parts. Also The Volvo manual does it the same way.
Oh you mean additional air when the throttle is cracked open. It would only come into play at WOT and I am not sure you could even measure it at that point. Volvo and Renault both use this way to adjust. I have P J Grady books I don't see any ill effects at all.

No, ...misunderstanding(s).
I think I'm with you now- When you "take the IAC motor out of the system..." you block off its passage, making it ~Basic K-Jet instead of K-Jet with lambda. Then open the screw so it gets enough air to run.... Which means the air is still measured by the plate (but not necessarily the amount the system expects after you set it, similar to the procedure in D:04:01 where the O2 sensor is disconnected....). Yes?

[Giamanut]

No, ...misunderstanding(s).
I think I'm with you now- When you "take the IAC motor out of the system..." you block off its passage, making it ~Basic K-Jet instead of K-Jet with lambda. Then open the screw so it gets enough air to run.... Which means the air is still measured by the plate (but not necessarily the amount the system expects after you set it, similar to the procedure in D:04:01 where the O2 sensor is disconnected....). Yes?

Yes! Get it as close as possible and the IAC barely has to do any work so it can't search to much. I found this thread about some Renault prv guru that explained it and after checking the Volvo manual they where pretty close. I was surprised, it was relatively easy and just brings it down to 2 adjustments, Mixture and what Volvo calls an Idle or air bypass screw. Pretty cool.

[Giamanut]

Ya guy's know I am going to have to sell this car, I just don't have the jack to keep it. But that being said I knew that when I bought it. Some people said sell it to someone who would love it and do a better job bringing it back to life. All I can say is I would drive my D anywhere after the work I have done on it! I am not a hack and this car is a Prime example of the D. On the upside I may have put myself in a position to actually own one that I can keep! Yes as incredible as it may seem I have a friend who has a friend who knows of another D with my name on it! Wish me luck as I am about to put 5051 up for sale. This is not a pitch but 5051 has a gorgeous underside and her topside is very very nice I am thinking of starting mid 40's any thoughts, Also everything on this car works from AC to Clock. I hope this does not violate any forum rules. It is not for sale yet! Couple light bulbs left to sort out!