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Thread: installing LED lights under the carriage

  1. #1
    Senior Member gulwng3's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Champaign, IL

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    My VIN:    10722

    installing LED lights under the carriage

    I'm wanting to install some LED lights under the carriage that I can control with a switch installed next to the passenger window switch. I have 2 questions:

    1) where is the closest constant hot wire in that area (around the window switches/cigarette lighter/etc.)?

    2) I don't want to drill a hole in my underside body so where is the best place to sneak a couple wires from said switch above to the underbody? Any access holes already available to get me from inside the passenger compartment to the underside?

    Thanks,
    Andy

  2. #2
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2015

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    1) the clock has a constant hot wire. Even if you don't have it, the wiring will still be there if you want to tap into it

    2)you might be able to pass the wires through the same hole that the ac hoses go through. I had mine going in the speedo cable hole when the angle drive was broken

  3. #3
    Senior Member gulwng3's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Champaign, IL

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    My VIN:    10722

    Thanks Mr. Maxime! I'd come help you lift your body off your frame if you were in Newman, IL.

    Andy

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Norton, MA

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    My VIN:    767 (3.0L EFI/EDIS)

    There are some options towards the back of the car, in so far as getting wires through the bulkhead without making any new holes:

    • The hole where the O2 sensor comes in behind the driver's seat near the ECUs, if you can sneak another wire past that.
    • If you remove the parcel shelf, you might be able to run some wires near the bulkhead connectors. You could either sneak them between the plate and the body by loosening the bolts that hold the plate on, or you use the three unused pins in the yellow bulkhead connector, although that would probably require sourcing some pins.
    • Again with the parcel shelf out, you might be able to run some wires through the passenger side pontoon and down to where the charcoal and vacuum canister cover is, then sneak them out from under that cover. You'd then run the wires forwards along the frame. I wouldn't recommend drilling holes in the cover, since that part (105710) is no longer available.
    • You might be able to slip a wire past where the throttle cable goes through the rear bulkhead. This also requires removing the parcel shelf.


    In the relay compartment, the brown wires are all always live. There's a bolt that goes through the bulkhead connector plate the has a bunch of brown wires on it, and connects to red wires in the engine bay (if I remember correctly). You could add a new one to that if you wanted always-on power. This has a direct battery connection, so you'll have lots of power to spare and won't have to worry about overdriving any existing wiring. Or you can just tap basically any other brown wire in the relay compartment (just make sure it really is always on; it should be, but who knows what modifications may have been made to your wiring). If you're taking the center armrest out to add your switch and wires, it's pretty easy to run a brown wire from the relay compartment to the console.

    I also have a non-functional angle drive, but I already reused that hole for a ground bus. I hadn't thought to try routing past the A/C and heater hoses.

    -- Joe

  5. #5
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2015

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    Quote Originally Posted by jangell View Post
    I also have a non-functional angle drive, but I already reused that hole for a ground bus. I hadn't thought to try routing past the A/C and heater hoses.

    -- Joe
    AC route is where I ran the wire for my HIDs. My LED controller was actually taped to the AC duct under the dash so thats why I used the clock wiring.

    Now i'll just run the wire though my old clutch cylinder hole.

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