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Thread: VIN 4519: 14-year "garage find"

  1. #11
    Banned Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    3,838

    I refuse to be impressed until you injure BOTH shoulders and rewire the fuse box with your feet.

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,304

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    I refuse to be impressed until you injure BOTH shoulders and rewire the fuse box with your feet.
    lol....don't jinx me!

    I didn't post a fuse box pic over here...looks nice, so I'm good for now. I'll attempt the accumulator with my feet if that becomes necessary.

    1125191939a-1.jpg
    Livin' the dream....

  3. #13
    Sometimes Owner louielouie2000's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Austin, TX

    Posts:    625

    My VIN:    Previously 10115 & 5252

    Rich, you're living my dream! I've always wanted to find a cosmetically clean very original car & recommission it. My brother actually tracked down a hibernating November '81 7000 series car for me in similar condition several months back, but the owner decided he wasn't ready to part with it yet. Good luck on bringing this one back to life, and please keep us updated on it's progress!
    Louie Golden

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,304

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by louielouie2000 View Post
    Rich, you're living my dream! I've always wanted to find a cosmetically clean very original car & recommission it. My brother actually tracked down a hibernating November '81 7000 series car for me in similar condition several months back, but the owner decided he wasn't ready to part with it yet. Good luck on bringing this one back to life, and please keep us updated on it's progress!


    Hopefully when the owner is ready, you'll be first in mind!

    I think the only cosmetics I'll need to address are the headliners, steering column canopy nut, binnacle lens bezel, and shifter boot. There's also a very small "tear" in the console...I should be able to fix it with a drop of glue.






    I'm still working with one arm; my daughter helped install a new a battery, and removed all the fuses. I'm going to clean & "lube" each fuse, and check each circuit as I reinstall them. The fuse box is in great shape, so I'm feeling pretty good about everything being in good shape electrically.

    1204191856a.jpg

    1205191652a.jpg


    I also began removing the headliners. I was able to remove the door headliners, but I'll need help with the rest. I remember being down that rabbit hole; while I'm in there I'll get into the roofbox & related items, and will be tempted to replace the visor mounts as well.

    1204191423a.jpg

    1205191707a.jpg

    1205192149a.jpg
    Livin' the dream....

  5. #15
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,578

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Looks like your fuse #10 has had some problem. My guess as to the OEM fuse block failure is the terminals do not hold the fuse pins tight enough. I remember replacing my fuse block with the DMCH unit feeling how much tighter the new pins hold the fuse.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,304

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Looks like your fuse #10 has had some problem. My guess as to the OEM fuse block failure is the terminals do not hold the fuse pins tight enough. I remember replacing my fuse block with the DMCH unit feeling how much tighter the new pins hold the fuse.
    Great eye, Dave! I didn't notice that, I'll check the fit when I get back to the fuses. I did notice my daughter struggled with most of them (especially #7,) so I'll compare position #10 to the others.

    For now, I'm keeping the car "stock," so I'll need to order an RPM relay of course, and maybe a few other things. I'm going to use a Tahoe pump module, but haven't yet decided on a sender.



    This was with the parts that came with the car, is it any use to you without the cover?
    1125192022_RPM.jpg
    Livin' the dream....

  7. #17
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,578

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Great eye, Dave! I didn't notice that, I'll check the fit when I get back to the fuses. I did notice my daughter struggled with most of them (especially #7,) so I'll compare position #10 to the others.

    For now, I'm keeping the car "stock," so I'll need to order an RPM relay of course, and maybe a few other things. I'm going to use a Tahoe pump module, but haven't yet decided on a sender.



    This was with the parts that came with the car, is it any use to you without the cover?
    1125192022_RPM.jpg
    If you want that RPM relay to be updated, that will work with it returned without the case.

    I run the Tahoe pump with the Tahoe sender with my fuel gauge ECU.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  8. #18
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,106

    My VIN:    6125

    Congrats on the new car Rich! I'm looking forward to following along with another epic build. Your first car turned out amazing and this one looks to be in really pristine cosmetic condition. Can't wait to see how this one ends up
    Mark Dehlinger

  9. #19
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  SK, Canada

    Posts:    1,962

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (TXDMC) (DOI)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I run the Tahoe pump with the Tahoe sender with my fuel gauge ECU.
    I feel like this is the best option right now. In terms of both price and reliability.

    5.3L LS4 + Subaru 6spd 314whp/348ft-lbs
    Getting it back on the road!
    LS Swap

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,304

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    I feel like this is the best option right now. In terms of both price and reliability.
    I got a pump from Autozone: 20% promo code discount, and just received ~$15 in rewards. I have a few different spare fuel senders; I'll either use one, or sell them & use Dave's ECU.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mark D View Post
    Congrats on the new car Rich! I'm looking forward to following along with another epic build. Your first car turned out amazing and this one looks to be in really pristine cosmetic condition. Can't wait to see how this one ends up
    Thanks Mark, I'm starting to get a ROI on all the tools you convinced me to buy! haha


    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    If you want that RPM relay to be updated, that will work with it returned without the case.

    I run the Tahoe pump with the Tahoe sender with my fuel gauge ECU.
    I'm planning to send the intact RPM relay from the car, I was wondering if you have a use for that spare one with the cover missing.
    Livin' the dream....

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