Building New AC Panel Faceplate

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm going to attempt to build a new AC panel faceplate so I can do custom LED illumination.

Since the OEM plastic plate is no longer available, I'm starting with a clean flat 1/4" thick Lexan sheet. My guess is the OEM parts were used up for melted plates from the lamps staying on all the time. Also you should remove the shifter plate before you remove the AC panel or you risk breaking the plastic and damaging the decal.

For now I plan to stick the the currently available fascia decal. I think you can make a custom one pretty easy by making colored labels and just making a black layer with cutouts to cover them.

There are four standoffs on the OEM plate the hold it in the correct location and correct distance from the metal mounting plate. The two light switches also have a ring to hold the distance but I don't think I will need those with my thicker Lexan plate. This will give me a little more than a 1/4" to mount a circuit board with LEDs and drivers (resistors or constant current circuits).

This is a project I've always planned to do. I still have incandescent bulbs in my AC panel. I never liked the result using LED bulb replacements.

[kajcienski]

Hi Dave! Not sure if you have seen my threads on this very subject but I have actually created a mold for the original faceplate as well as made a mold for a custom faceplate, one of which I have converted into a self contained LED backlight panel in my car now. Just plugs into any of the existing light sockets. You are describing a different non-mold approach and looking forward to seeing your results! It can definitely be done and is great to stare at a completely even backlight on top of emitting no heat - really refines it. I also have a custom graphic overlay thread after months of experimenting. It is not as easy as you might plan to get it looking or functioning remotely how it is suppose to. I would be happy to share with you how I reproduced an overlay virtually identical to how they really look, light up, and feel. Let me know or just check out my thread below - a picture of the final install is on page 8. Hopefully some of my early mistakes will be of some use!

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?25...raphic+overlay

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did read your very interesting thread. I need a faceplate without the back "light pipes" molded into it since I'm going to place many SMT LEDs aiming directly to the front. I did like my older overlay better than the one sold at DMCH but I can work with that new one. I am adding a green "fans on" light but may be able to do it with the fan fail location.

My plan is just to cut all the existing holes which will take a little experimenting working with Lexan. Then make some standoffs (probably aluminum) for the four corners. Apply the decal, and start placing LEDs on a prototype board also cut to match the face plate.

[kajcienski]

I think there would be a huge demand for a new LED light panel (faceplate). I can't see anyone not wanting an "even lighting" option to the original! My approach was too time consuming to make it practical for sale - but achieves the goal. Please post as many step-by-step pics of your lighting panel construction as you can. Good luck and looking forward!

[Ryan King]

I already want one from you, Dave

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got my Lexan today. It cut very nice on my bandsaw. Over the weekend I'm going to try drilling the holes with hole saws. I have an oscillating spindle sander I can use to get the holes to final size. I also got some red and amber LEDs. I may have to use some white LEDs also for the red and blue that are close to each other.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the 5 large holes "drilled". I made a 1/4" center hole with a brad point twist drill, then used a 0.251" reamer to be sure the hole was a little bigger than the 1/4" hole saw guide shaft. Make sure when drilling, you have the lexan held tightly down on the drill press table or it will grab when it breaks through (ask me how I know). The hole saws start cutting very nice but then the teeth will fill up with melted plastic. So you have to stop many times to clean the teeth.

I think I will make some standoffs with an 1/8" center pin so I can drill a guide hole that fits onto the lexan panel. That way when the standoffs are glued on I will know they are in the correct position. I was going to use a flat head screw but I want to put the decal on before the standoffs are on so I and finish all the sanding of the lexan with a flat surface. Need the decal to guide the sanding.

Also wondering if the indicator "lights" will need a hole painted black to prevent light "bleed through" from the lights beside it.

[Spittybug]

Dave, have you considered edge lighting with SMOLEDS? If you polished the walls of your holes and the perimeter of the Lexan, the light would travel through it and come out.... If the writing on the panel were actually etched it, then these too would glow......Technically tough to do (I've tried), but would be cool.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think light through plastic only illuminates if the surface is not polished "frosted". But that's just my guess. My LEDs will be directly illuminating the translucent images of the decal. Still need to test this idea on my prototype. There is not much room to move the LEDs back to get more area illuminated. I may need a 100 LEDs running at very low currents.

[vwdmc16]

Pics Dave! we need pics!