If you can use a scope you can read a wiring diagram. Go to D:04:06 and check the wiring to the TTS and the CSV and starter. Verify there is nothing plugged into the hot start relay plug by the fuse block. Polarity on the TTS is VERY important. Screw it up and you burn it out (and it only takes a second!). Follow this advice and it should fix the hard cold start problem. Other things to check is vacuum hose routing and pay particular attention to how the distributor vacuum solenoid is connected. If the hoses are reversed it won't work right. Then check timing. There is a good write-up in the how to's to check the vacuum and mechanical advance. You don't have to have a WOT switch but it's good to have. The wiring diagram for the Lambda circuit is D:04:12. The WOT and Thermal switch share the same wire and they ground it to force the circuit to full. Base (initial) timing is ignition timing, not cam timing. As far as I know, ALL cams are installed to the same timing, ie, you line up all of the marks. OEM cams use 13 degrees BTDC. If you use a "hotter" or performance cam they are usually set a few degrees more advanced, say 16 degrees. If you don't know whose cams are in the car and you don't have the documentation you can experiment with the timing to find the right spot. On a hot day you try advancing the timing till you get pinging (detonation) and then back off 2-3 degrees. This is very dependent on the octane of the fuel you use, lower octane means less advance. More advance means more power but also more heat. Before playing with the timing you should get everything working correctly and in good tune, like a clean air filter, fresh spark plugs, etc.