Posts: 265
Posts: 265
Cool, I'll check these spots. Regarding the voltage, I always have the car hooked up to a battery tender so it *should* be charged. I took the battery and alternator out to AutoZone about 6 months ago to have them both tested and confirmed that they were both in good working order.
As it turns out the hot start is easier than the cold start in this case. Should I skip the o-rings based on that? I've never opened the fuel distributor before... I'll have to see if I can find a youtube video on that.
Posts: 265
I can check the timing easy enough but how do I check the mechanical and vacuum advance?
Maybe I'm missing something but you said previously that the "plug swap" was intended to check hot start issues, not cold start issues:
I guess you're suggesting that I can verify that it's not because of the CSV system by doing the "plug swap"? I'm reading through the Cold start issues page on the DeLorean site and it mentions some of this.
It says: "The heater should measure about 50 ohms to ground, and the switch connection should measure a dead short (0 ohms) to ground when cold and open (infinite) to ground when hot. NEVER apply a test voltage to the TTS." Doesn't setting the voltmeter to resistance measurements automatically apply a voltage in order to read resistance? If so, how are you supposed to measure the resistance without applying a test voltage?
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,415
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,582
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Whoever supplied the cams usually gives instructions on how to install them and what to set the base timing to. Refer to M:01:04 for the specs for timing advance. The "plug swap" forces the cold start valve open. Useful to troubleshoot hot and cold start problems. Before testing the TTS, try the plug swap. If that gets the motor to start easily then you can check out the TTS and the wiring. The manual warns against putting 12 volts on the TTS. A resistance meter is only going to apply about 1 1/2 volts, that is safe to do. For a better look at the cold start system refer to D:01:10 and D:04:06
David Teitelbaum
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,026
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Most of The high lift cams have base timing set from 16-18 BTDC. But whom ever you bought them from should give you guidance.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,415
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Posts: 265
I don't think I have any card for it. In my possession, the car never ran correctly. When I got it, it was running on 4 cylinders and the WOT switch was broken (always on). I hypothesize that the previous mechanic that put it back together didn't realize the WOT switch problem and backed the fuel mixture screw all the way down. I found a bunch of stuff, went through the car and upgraded a bunch of stuff in the process (like the crappy wiring). It runs much better now but there are some things I need to wrap up like this stupid cold-start problem.
I don't want to change the timing of the cams, I guess I'm wondering what the base timing should be on a car with aftermarket cams -- maybe I need the card.
Posts: 265
I just did the plug swap and it started right up.
So, I think that means the cold start valve is good, right?
After that I tested the pins of the TTS to engine ground and found that one pin was about 30Ω and the other was 0.2Ω -- both of those values sound right. The electrical clip that clips into the TTS sensor is badly damaged, I wonder if that clip isn't making a good contact to those TTS pins...
What else can I check?