EFI conversion - VIN1049

[DCUK Martin]

What I do with the cable is to have a little "joiner" made. It's nothing more than a piece of 1/4" circular stock, say 60mm long. Drill a 5mm hole into each end to a depth of 28mm, then drill a 2mm hole through the 4mm centre that's left. Then you can add a length of outer sheath and replace the centre cable entirely with a longer one. Much easier than making an entirely new assembly. I use a length of electrical heat shrink to seal up the join which ends up neatly behind the coolant bottle.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Model airplanes have a lot of flex cables that you can buy at a hobby store or on line. Lots of little fittings also to connect them.

[opethmike]

Thanks for the pointers, Dave & Martin. The throttle setup has been one of the more challenging parts for me.

Addressing the throttle will be one of the last things I take care of, but I will be sure to let you know how it turns out when I get there.

[Farrar]

Michael, you're doing exactly what I would (will?) do -- mounting all of the electrics inside the car. I did this with my new AT computer. Isn't it nice how much space there is back there?

FYI, those plugs go in easier than they come out. When I first pushed one of them in I thought "uh oh, this seems loose." However, the slight taper seems to be enough to hold a vacuum-tight seal, and the silicone doesn't get squishy when it heats up. (Hooray for science!)

Looking forward to seeing what you can knock out this weekend!

Farrar

[opethmike]

Accomplished tonight:

Wired second bank of injectors
Wired, calibrated, and installed wide-band oxygen sensor + controller

Hoping to get done this weekend:

Run MAP vacuum line
Plug old injector bungs
Make bracket and install TPS
Figure out TPS wires
Power on MS, and make sure that it sees all sensors
Calibrate TPS, and program FIdle output, make sure it works
Install Megatune & get communication with ECU
Perform initial configuration
Get car to start

Once I can get the car to start and idle reasonably well, I still will need to:

Wrap up wiring
Install throttle spool
Install air intake tube + air filter
Put the interior of the car back together
Fix the stripped body bolt nut behind the rear driver's side spring/shock assembly
Drive, tune, drive, tune, drive, tune

[opethmike]

Today:

Ran MAP vacuum line
Made bracket and installed TPS
Got Megatune communicating with ECU
Set FIdle spare output to provide ground to ISM & vacuum advance solenoid when throttle is closed. Verified it works.

Did basic configurations in Megatune. Was able to get car to start and run (somewhat rough) for about 15-20 seconds, then the car stalled. Further attempts to start didn't work - noticed first that I wasn't seeing any RPM in Megatune, and was confused. Then, noticed that my battery had run down too low - 11.8 resting, 11.1 during cranking.

Going to swap out the battery from my Saturn into the car tomorrow, temporarily. Once I can get the car to start and idle, and once I've charged the correct battery, I'll put the correct battery back in.

[opethmike]

No luck starting so far - datalogging shows that I'm not getting a tach signal (0 the whole way), but I do see sensor recordings, so I do have constant 12v. (I also checked voltage between ground and my 12v hot feed during cranking, its constant).

I have a shielded wire running from the tach terminal strip port on the MS ECU Relay board, to the "1" post on the ignition coil. I thought I should be able to get tach from there?

I should also note that the dash tachometer does show RPM while it is cranking.

[opethmike]

Datalog is attached. Pretty clear that I'm not getting tach! Also can see that the CLT and MAT are show readings during cranking, so I am indeed getting voltage to MS while cranking.

Rename the .txt in the zip file to .xls to view in Excel.

[opethmike]

Further diagnostics - I verified using my multimeter (reads tach) that I am using the correct post of the coil.

I also verified that I have continuity from one end of the wire I am using to the other.

While cranking, I hooked my multimeter to ground and to the tach port on the relay board after plugging the wire back in. The meter showed ~200 RPM while cranking, so RPM signal IS getting to the relay board.

However, datalogging shows only 0 or 1 for RPM. Aggravating.

I am running fuel control only, FYI.

Can't attach the data log for some reason. PM your e-mail address and I will send it to anyone interested.

[DMCMW Dave]

Get your tach pulse from the line inside the car, a handy place is the idle ECU wiring. It's the white/slate wire on the connector toward the inside of the car. This is probably close to where you have your MS ECU anyway.