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Thread: Drivetrain Refurb questions

  1. #91
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
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    Do not take a hammer directly to any of the bearing parts; you definitely want to use a bearing driver like what DMC-81 showed above. Most autoparts places rent them, or you can buy your own. I have the Harbor Freight set Maddox and love it. They also have a lower priced option.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/18-pie...kit-35555.html
    https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...-pc-63261.html

    Those tapered differential bearings are pretty common to if you decide to replace them (which come with new outer races). I believe from pretty much all manufacturers (SKF/NTN/Timken) their part number is 30209.

    Assuming you're also replacing your half shaft lip seals (which you definitely should) you'll need a driver set for that as well to install them. Depending on the condition of your half shafts, you may want to consider the stainless steel speedi sleeves. They can repair pitted shaft surfaces. Easy to install; I've used them with great success:
    Speedy Sleeves.jpg

    Also, personally I would not remove and re-install a stock coupler (assuming you replace the lip seal). The originals are very soft (I tested one at 26HRC) and removing and re-installing them isn't going to do anything to help the (partial) splines. I should disclose that my opinion is influenced because I've made replacements for this coupler and therefore always re-installed replacements on any transmissions I've rebuilt. However, I wouldn't do so if I didn't really think that the original couplers were crap. My recommendation is to either replace both the lip seal and the coupler together, or do nothing at all.

    Just be careful and really assess the lip seal's condition, that's a bummer of a seal to have leak. I'm pretty sure I had a kevlar clutch fail due to oil saturation from a bad shaft lip seal that I decided not to replace. Very unfortunate since there was lots of life left in it if not for the oil:
    Saturated Clutch.jpg
    Last edited by Nicholas R; 03-26-2020 at 04:05 PM.

  2. #92
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2014

    Location:  Anchorage, Alaska

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    Do not take a hammer directly to any of the bearing parts; you definitely want to use a bearing driver like what DMC-81 showed above. Most autoparts places rent them, or you can buy your own. I have the Harbor Freight set Maddox and love it. They also have a lower priced option.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/18-pie...kit-35555.html
    https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...-pc-63261.html

    Those tapered differential bearings are pretty common to if you decide to replace them (which come with new outer races). I believe from pretty much all manufacturers (SKF/NTN/Timken) their part number is 30209.

    Assuming you're also replacing your half shaft lip seals (which you definitely should) you'll need a driver set for that as well to install them. Depending on the condition of your half shafts, you may want to consider the stainless steel speedi sleeves. They can repair pitted shaft surfaces. Easy to install; I've used them with great success:
    Speedy Sleeves.jpg

    Also, personally I would not remove and re-install a stock coupler (assuming you replace the lip seal). The originals are very soft (I tested one at 26HRC) and removing and re-installing them isn't going to do anything to help the (partial) splines. I should disclose that my opinion is influenced because I've made replacements for this coupler and therefore always re-installed replacements on any transmissions I've rebuilt. However, I wouldn't do so if I didn't really think that the original couplers were crap. My recommendation is to either replace both the lip seal and the coupler together, or do nothing at all.

    Just be careful and really assess the lip seal's condition, that's a bummer of a seal to have leak. I'm pretty sure I had a kevlar clutch fail due to oil saturation from a bad shaft lip seal that I decided not to replace. Very unfortunate since there was lots of life left in it if not for the oil:
    Saturated Clutch.jpg
    Hey - Thanks for all the info! I just ordered the bearing race tool set since my local autozone didnít have a set for loan. I did however, pound out the pin on the coupler for the input shaft and replaced the lip seal. It came apart easy enough, so I just changed it out and put it back together. How much are the coupler replacements you sell? And is it just a coupler same as stock but made from stronger. Metal or ??? Also, I am replacing the half shaft seals as well. I really hadnít looked at my half shafts up until now, and yeah I definitely see some pitting. How much are the speedi sleeves and what is the size? I know that Delorean go sells them at like $40 each, or a new half shaft from DMC is $80. So $80/$160....Dang. I wonder if I can get the speedi sleeves elsewhere?
    Attached Images
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  3. #93
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Hey - Thanks for all the info! I just ordered the bearing race tool set since my local autozone didn¬’t have a set for loan. I did however, pound out the pin on the coupler for the input shaft and replaced the lip seal. It came apart easy enough, so I just changed it out and put it back together. How much are the coupler replacements you sell? And is it just a coupler same as stock but made from stronger. Metal or ??? Also, I am replacing the half shaft seals as well. I really hadn¬’t looked at my half shafts up until now, and yeah I definitely see some pitting. How much are the speedi sleeves and what is the size? I know that Delorean go sells them at like $40 each, or a new half shaft from DMC is $80. So $80/$160....Dang. I wonder if I can get the speedi sleeves elsewhere?
    Speedi Sleeves are just an industry part. I think multiple manufacturers have products like them. SKF has Speedi-Sleeves, Timken has Redi-sleeves, etc. Every now and then we'll use them on gearbox shafts at my work to avoid having to replace the shaft.

    Below is the catalog:
    Speedi Speeves Catalog.pdf
    The half shaft flanges are 42mm. I believe this is what I've used in the past: https://www.skf.com/cn/en/products/s...ignation=99165

    You may be able to find them around the internet priced in the $30s but honestly, it's probably safest just to get them from somewhere like DeLoreango. $38.99 seems pretty reasonable to me. I've had a set on my car since 2012 (at the time purchased from DMCMW) and they still look nice and clean.

  4. #94
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    Speedi Sleeves are just an industry part. I think multiple manufacturers have products like them. SKF has Speedi-Sleeves, Timken has Redi-sleeves, etc. Every now and then we'll use them on gearbox shafts at my work to avoid having to replace the shaft.

    Below is the catalog:
    Speedi Speeves Catalog.pdf
    The half shaft flanges are 42mm. I believe this is what I've used in the past: https://www.skf.com/cn/en/products/s...ignation=99165

    You may be able to find them around the internet priced in the $30s but honestly, it's probably safest just to get them from somewhere like DeLoreango. $38.99 seems pretty reasonable to me. I've had a set on my car since 2012 (at the time purchased from DMCMW) and they still look nice and clean.
    Cool, ill do that then. What about the upgraded input shaft coupler you were talking about?
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  5. #95
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

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    Definitely the 99165 part - checked my purchase history and have 2 of them on my car.

    They have speedy in their name, but that's only in the scope of having to wait for a new shaft to be shipped

    Take your time to carefully and evenly press them in to place. They'll bend out of round easily and are razor sharp.

    Look at the pitting on your existing flange and note any raised areas. i had to redo one as the pitting had "cratered" (for lack of better term) and the edges of the crater were sharp. The repair sleeve conformed to the surface and would not seal correctly. Second time around I sanded the old flange seal surface to smooth it down. That was 8 years ago and I haven't had a drip since.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

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  6. #96
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    Definitely the 99165 part - checked my purchase history and have 2 of them on my car.

    They have speedy in their name, but that's only in the scope of having to wait for a new shaft to be shipped

    Take your time to carefully and evenly press them in to place. They'll bend out of round easily and are razor sharp.

    Look at the pitting on your existing flange and note any raised areas. i had to redo one as the pitting had "cratered" (for lack of better term) and the edges of the crater were sharp. The repair sleeve conformed to the surface and would not seal correctly. Second time around I sanded the old flange seal surface to smooth it down. That was 8 years ago and I haven't had a drip since.
    Nice! Thanks for the info. I have decided to purchase new drive flanges simply because I want this gearbox to be perfect once I'm done. So I'll have a pair of drive flanges up for sale here pretty soon.
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  7. #97
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    Man, this hunker down thing sorta sucks, but Iím getting a ton done on the car. The transmission case came back from the soda blasting and powder coat. I started to reinstall the shift forks-and roll pins (all new). Iím currently waiting on roller bearings to arrive in the mail to go any further.

    I did however swap out the original hot water valve with a new (all metal) Jaguar type, and surrounding hoses with their silicone equivalents. I noticed my original valve did work but only opened 1/8 to 1/4 of the way. I wonder what a normal operating valve will end up doing to the rest of the system. Ideas?

    While waiting on transmission parts, next Iíll install a coolant engine bleed system that i got from delorean go.
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  8. #98
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Man, this hunker down thing sorta sucks, but Iím getting a ton done on the car. The transmission case came back from the soda blasting and powder coat. I started to reinstall the shift forks-and roll pins (all new). Iím currently waiting on roller bearings to arrive in the mail to go any further.

    I did however swap out the original hot water valve with a new (all metal) Jaguar type, and surrounding hoses with their silicone equivalents. I noticed my original valve did work but only opened 1/8 to 1/4 of the way. I wonder what a normal operating valve will end up doing to the rest of the system. Ideas?

    While waiting on transmission parts, next Iíll install a coolant engine bleed system that i got from delorean go.
    Nice work!
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  9. #99
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

    Posts:    2,659

    My VIN:    01643

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    Man, this hunker down thing sorta sucks, but Iím getting a ton done on the car. The transmission case came back from the soda blasting and powder coat. I started to reinstall the shift forks-and roll pins (all new). Iím currently waiting on roller bearings to arrive in the mail to go any further.

    I did however swap out the original hot water valve with a new (all metal) Jaguar type, and surrounding hoses with their silicone equivalents. I noticed my original valve did work but only opened 1/8 to 1/4 of the way. I wonder what a normal operating valve will end up doing to the rest of the system. Ideas?

    While waiting on transmission parts, next Iíll install a coolant engine bleed system that i got from delorean go.
    Wow this all looks great. Just a note about those roll pins; be sure that the pins are centered in the shaft (i.e. not sticking out too far on either side than the other). When you have the shafts back in, just make sure you can turn the gears nice and smoothly, and that all the selectors work as they should. I remember miss judging how far I needed to insert a set of pins and didn't noticed until I had the gearbox reassembled. Major bummer.

  10. #100
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
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    New roller bearings

    Does anyone know if a cross reference list exists for our diff roller bearings? I went to my local Oreillyís and ordered the 30209c roller bearings. What I got was house brand labeled as30209c on the box, but Koyo30929j on the new race, and 57160 on the actual bearing. Is this a cross reference number that is good, or did I get mislabeled product? The register jockey behind the counter was more than useless in determining such.

    I donít want to install these unless I know they are right. Even the old bearings have 30209c on them. Anyone had any experience on this? Iíve been trying to find a cross reference list online to no avail.
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

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