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  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Asheville, N.C

    Posts:    137

    My VIN:    Latest VIN 83

    Club(s):   (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    No Start

    Jumped Rpm relay worked only once then then plugged the rpm relay back and worked fine.
    Now doesnít start either way
    Cranks fine just no gas!
    Thinkin itís more electrical related
    Things to look out for?
    All Fuses are good
    Plug at pump is connected
    All the sudden
    Any Suggestions?
    Appreciate it


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  2. #2
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,498

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    The weak electrical points in the fuel pump circuit are;
    A connector plug that can be reached after removing the windscreen washer reservoir (gets corroded)
    The plug and harness at the fuel pump (water gets into the cover boot and rots the connections on the pump)
    The inertia switch (make sure the recall was done and it is hooked up correctly)
    The RPM relay fails
    The #7 fuse melts out of the fuse block

    The quickest and easiest test is to just power and ground the pump directly from the battery. If that gets the pump to run then you know it is electrical. If it doesn't, the pump is bad. If the pump runs but you still can't get the motor running because of no fuel, there is a problem inside the tank.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.

    Posts:    1,663

    My VIN:    0934

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    David T's guidance it on the money.

    And there is an opposite way to verify it is a fuel delivery problem: See if it will fire up when you give it a spray of starting fluid into the metering unit (pull off the air filter box to access it) while holding the air meter plate down a bit. If it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid then you know you have ignition and need to diagnose the fuel/air supply issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post

    The quickest and easiest test is to just power and ground the pump directly from the battery. If that gets the pump to run then you know it is electrical. If it doesn't, the pump is bad. If the pump runs but you still can't get the motor running because of no fuel, there is a problem inside the tank.
    March '81, 5-speed, black interior

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Asheville, N.C

    Posts:    137

    My VIN:    Latest VIN 83

    Club(s):   (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Just today After unloading from my trailer the car started up just fine and taillights now work.
    Earlier when I unloaded for the weekend on Fri. the taillights quite working they work now.
    Inertia switch -what update?
    #7 fuse is good all are
    Rpm relay seems fine working
    Iíll check the pump
    Any ideas Iím thinking a loose connections somewhere?
    Once I fix this I think Iím gonna replace the whole wiring harness cause every time I fix one issue it seems to be two more


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  5. #5
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,723

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by FLYBOY View Post
    Just today After unloading from my trailer the car started up just fine and taillights now work.
    Earlier when I unloaded for the weekend on Fri. the taillights quite working they work now.
    Inertia switch -what update?
    #7 fuse is good all are
    Rpm relay seems fine working
    Iíll check the pump
    Any ideas Iím thinking a loose connections somewhere?
    Once I fix this I think Iím gonna replace the whole wiring harness cause every time I fix one issue it seems to be two more


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Stock RPM relays do become intermittent due to broken solder joints.

    The taillights working intermittent is probably a different problem.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,548

    My VIN:    3937

    Inertia switch recall explained here: https://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-06-7.82.html

    Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? There is a lockout feature on the automatics that will prevent you from starting the car if you aren't all the way up into PARK. And it's only a small amount the gear shifter needs to be down for it to lock out the fuel pump. Like about the width of your wallet if you leave it resting there and it is just slightly stopping the shifter from going all the way up.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Asheville, N.C

    Posts:    137

    My VIN:    Latest VIN 83

    Club(s):   (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    No Start

    Itís a manual transmission
    #7 Fuse is good
    Fuel pump connections are solid
    Fuel pump is working
    Car starts up just fine
    Interia switch is operating normally not sure if itís updated but vin is very very late 83í
    Guess Iíll see if it does it again and then do some more trouble shooting but still scratching my head


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    Last edited by FLYBOY; 02-25-2020 at 12:45 AM.

  8. #8
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    1,857

    My VIN:    5003

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    A possibility for you taillight issues, those bulkhead connectors are shit in my opinion. They gave me nothing but random electrical problems with the engine and many problems with the taillights working/not working depending on the day. They were corroded and not making good contact, I tried cleaning them and bending the female side closed a little so they'd make a better connection which did work for a while. A missing coil cover I believe is a big contributor to having problems with those connectors and I have no idea how long my car did not have one installed prior to my ownership - I had to buy one to put on.
    Last edited by dn010; 02-25-2020 at 10:06 AM.
    -----Dan B.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,723

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    A possibility for you taillight issues, those bulkhead connectors are shit in my opinion. They gave me nothing but random electrical problems with the engine and many problems with the taillights working/not working depending on the day. They were corroded and not making good contact, I tried cleaning them and bending the female side closed a little so they'd make a better connection which did work for a while. A missing coil cover I believe is a big contributor to having problems with those connectors and I have no idea how long my car did not have one installed prior to my ownership - I had to buy one to put on.
    +1
    I agree with all he said. I went to extreme and crimped new pins on most every one of the bulkheads.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Asheville, N.C

    Posts:    137

    My VIN:    Latest VIN 83

    Club(s):   (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    I got updated taillight boards and checked the connections both stopped and started working at the same time so probably main connection point itís always been garaged and I do have a stainless steel ignition cover
    Right now everything is fine so time will tell?


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