Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jumped Rpm relay worked only once then then plugged the rpm relay back and worked fine.
Now doesn’t start either way
Cranks fine just no gas!
Thinkin it’s more electrical related
Things to look out for?
All Fuses are good
Plug at pump is connected
All the sudden
Any Suggestions?
Appreciate it
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Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
The weak electrical points in the fuel pump circuit are;
A connector plug that can be reached after removing the windscreen washer reservoir (gets corroded)
The plug and harness at the fuel pump (water gets into the cover boot and rots the connections on the pump)
The inertia switch (make sure the recall was done and it is hooked up correctly)
The RPM relay fails
The #7 fuse melts out of the fuse block
The quickest and easiest test is to just power and ground the pump directly from the battery. If that gets the pump to run then you know it is electrical. If it doesn't, the pump is bad. If the pump runs but you still can't get the motor running because of no fuel, there is a problem inside the tank.
David Teitelbaum
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,082
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
David T's guidance it on the money.
And there is an opposite way to verify it is a fuel delivery problem: See if it will fire up when you give it a spray of starting fluid into the metering unit (pull off the air filter box to access it) while holding the air meter plate down a bit. If it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid then you know you have ignition and need to diagnose the fuel/air supply issue.
Originally Posted by David T
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Just today After unloading from my trailer the car started up just fine and taillights now work.
Earlier when I unloaded for the weekend on Fri. the taillights quite working they work now.
Inertia switch -what update?
#7 fuse is good all are
Rpm relay seems fine working
I’ll check the pump
Any ideas I’m thinking a loose connections somewhere?
Once I fix this I think I’m gonna replace the whole wiring harness cause every time I fix one issue it seems to be two more
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Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
Stock RPM relays do become intermittent due to broken solder joints.
The taillights working intermittent is probably a different problem.
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Inertia switch recall explained here: https://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/SC-06-7.82.html
Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? There is a lockout feature on the automatics that will prevent you from starting the car if you aren't all the way up into PARK. And it's only a small amount the gear shifter needs to be down for it to lock out the fuel pump. Like about the width of your wallet if you leave it resting there and it is just slightly stopping the shifter from going all the way up.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
It’s a manual transmission
#7 Fuse is good
Fuel pump connections are solid
Fuel pump is working
Car starts up just fine
Interia switch is operating normally not sure if it’s updated but vin is very very late 83’
Guess I’ll see if it does it again and then do some more trouble shooting but still scratching my head
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Last edited by FLYBOY; 02-25-2020 at 12:45 AM.
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,109
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
A possibility for you taillight issues, those bulkhead connectors are shit in my opinion. They gave me nothing but random electrical problems with the engine and many problems with the taillights working/not working depending on the day. They were corroded and not making good contact, I tried cleaning them and bending the female side closed a little so they'd make a better connection which did work for a while. A missing coil cover I believe is a big contributor to having problems with those connectors and I have no idea how long my car did not have one installed prior to my ownership - I had to buy one to put on.
Last edited by dn010; 02-25-2020 at 10:06 AM.
-----Dan B.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,006
My VIN: 03572
+1
I agree with all he said. I went to extreme and crimped new pins on most every one of the bulkheads.
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
I got updated taillight boards and checked the connections both stopped and started working at the same time so probably main connection point it’s always been garaged and I do have a stainless steel ignition cover
Right now everything is fine so time will tell?
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Dave M vin 03572