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Thread: Pull heads and clean or just flush?

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Pull heads and clean or just flush?

    So, picked up the 3.0 prv today in Tampa. They told me before I left that the engine "has been sitting for a very loooong time." I don't wanna know.
    IMG_20200225_1402187.jpg

    So, I found this in the coolant passages. Should I pull the heads, or should I just use a vinegar solution and garden hose to clean the passages?
    IMG_20200225_2100280.jpgIMG_20200225_2100142.jpg
    IMG_20200225_2100361.jpgIMG_20200225_2100417.jpg
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  2. #2
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    You can try flushing it but if you still see traces of that goo you are going to have to open it up to really get it clean. Auto stores used to sell chemicals that you would use to break down sludge, goo, and corrosion but that was before aluminum heads and blocks were popular. I have seen old anti-freeze turn into a gel (kind of like Slime, the stuff kids play with) and the only way to get rid of it is to mechanically remove it and to do that you have to tear the motor all apart. If the motor was sitting for a long time water can get into the crankcase and ruin parts in the bottom end. No sense going through all of the trouble putting that motor in if it is only going to self-destruct. If you didn't see it running you have to assume it needs work inside unless you can prove otherwise by inspection, a compression test and see oil pressure. Over on the Lotus forum an owner just bought an "extra" motor to put in while he fixes up his original motor. Well things didn't work out so well for him, the "extra" motor has a bad liner. Another problem with buying a used motor, if it was overheated you won't know till you have it all put in and find out the liner seals and head gaskets are "popped". That is why, if you didn't see it running, you have to buy it really cheap and expect to put all new gaskets and seals into it at the very least.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
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    I guess best way to check would be first flush coolant passages, oil down cylinders, add fresh oil to pan, do compression test and verify oil pressure?

    Once that's verified, add water and do a coolant pressure test to make sure liner and head seals are good?

    My 2.8 overheated long ago before I got it (melted oil fill screen), and started overheating slowly on the road before I pulled it. I don't see similar evidence of overheat on this 3.0, but you never know. Almost impossible to find a running Premier or Monaco nowadays.
    Last edited by 81dmc; 02-25-2020 at 10:14 PM.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  4. #4
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    I've swapped plenty of junkyard engines, engines from backyards, etc. Never had one that was bad. Since most of the work is taking the rear bumper off
    and sliding the engine in I would take a chance that it will work. I might try some muriatic acid diluted and roll the engine over to move the water around. I
    don't see what you have to lose, if it works pat yourself on the back. If it doesn't you just have to do the work you wished you didn't have to. Personally, I
    don't like pulling engines apart unless absolutely necessary. Good luck!!!

  5. #5
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    I put on a soak early this morning with a flush cleanser.

    Then I finished my work early today so I would be able to get outside and flush.
    .
    .
    .
    I'm going to have to pull the heads.
    IMG_20200226_1258544.jpg
    IMG_20200226_1258504.jpg



    Anyone know what size bolts so I can make some liner locks?
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  6. #6
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    On a motor that the place admitted was "sitting for a very loooong time" you have to figure it is not going to be "plug and play". When a motor sits for long periods of time the seals take a "set" and once you start it up they are going to leak badly. You also have to wonder why they got the motor in the first place. Maybe it froze while sitting? Maybe because it is bad inside? If you get it cheap enough, doing a gasket set and inspecting the insides is not too bad and certainly worth doing before you go through all of the effort to put it in.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #7
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    This thing turns freely. Seems like the condition of this 3.0 is pretty common nowadays.

    Already spoke to Josh @ DPI. Going to get a head gasket+ liner seal kit.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  8. #8
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    due to the rust buildup visible from those holes Id say you should expect to replace the steel liners (which caused the rust) too, which then means its full rebuild time.

  9. #9
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    Pulling liners/pistons when I get time today. Should be able to clean them up.

    Talked to a local engine builder, he agreed to blast/clean block and refresh heads.

    Let's just say this engine was cared for (no oil sludge), but it's been sitting for far too long.

    When was the last time you saw this type of purflux oil filter?IMG_20200227_1054105.jpg


    This'll buff right out, no prob. I'm serious.
    IMG_20200227_1008315.jpgIMG_20200227_1008287.jpg


    For future reference, anyone who buys a 3.0 needs to pull the heads off at least to clean up. With the age of these things, there are no more drop in engines swaps.
    Last edited by 81dmc; 02-27-2020 at 11:13 AM.
    Early 81 5spd conversion- DMCH Ground Effects, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension, 3.0 PRV with MS3

  10. #10
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    It's definitely good you decided to pull those heads. After you pull the liners and pistons, I bet a high pressure washer would get that gunk out. Clean the rust off all the liners.

    Were the liners ever painted or coated on our engines?
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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