Vin 3430, The White one from BaT...

[Mark D]

[IMG]


Cold Start Valve connector has a broken wire... too close to splice.


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You should be able to pull out the metal pin from the connector and carefully pry it apart to remove the old wire, then re-crimp it onto the end of the broken wire. Or if that is a common type of pin you may be able to just crimp on a new pin without trying to save the old one.

Otherwise, I could grab you a used connector with a few inches of wire pigtail so you can cut and splice a new connector in place. There is a 3.0L PRV in an Eagle Premier in one of the junk yards by me that I could grab for you. I think it should be the same connector for the CSV. Can anybody confirm?

[ssdelorean]

I installed new struts for the doors and hood from PJ Grady. Will make life easier. Pretty happy that the doors open and close well and even when up. The doors do fly open pretty fast though... maybe because the struts are new? Was going to see if they settle in before i do anything rash...

andyo,
A quick test to see if the tortion bar is adjusted/set properly - You can remove the door strut and let the door hang. When properly adjusted/set, the door should hang 2-6 inches away from being closed.

If they are more than that, the previous owner may have over torqued the tortion bar to compensate for a weaker gas strut.

[DMC5180]

I installed new struts for the doors and hood from PJ Grady. Will make life easier. Pretty happy that the doors open and close well and even when up. The doors do fly open pretty fast though... maybe because the struts are new? Was going to see if they settle in before i do anything rash...





Coolant Temp probe connector was duct taped and jumpered...




Cold Start Valve connector has a broken wire... too close to splice.


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Here’s a tip for Terminal extraction

One large paper clip. Insert into squared hole next to the terminal blades. Push in until you feel resistance then it gets easier as the lock tab bends inward. About 3/8 inch. The terminal will then push out the back. Then lock tab will need to be pried back outward to reinsert the terminal.

You might be able to solder repair it.

Otherwise new terminals can be purchased to replace those.

The terminal type is JPT junior power timer.

[andyo]

You should be able to pull out the metal pin from the connector and carefully pry it apart to remove the old wire, then re-crimp it onto the end of the broken wire. Or if that is a common type of pin you may be able to just crimp on a new pin without trying to save the old one.

Otherwise, I could grab you a used connector with a few inches of wire pigtail so you can cut and splice a new connector in place. There is a 3.0L PRV in an Eagle Premier in one of the junk yards by me that I could grab for you. I think it should be the same connector for the CSV. Can anybody confirm?

Thank you Mark! I actually found new ones on Dgo and DMCH, i will try and salvage this one by de-pinning it. Ill let you know how it goes

-Andy

[andyo]

andyo,
A quick test to see if the tortion bar is adjusted/set properly - You can remove the door strut and let the door hang. When properly adjusted/set, the door should hang 2-6 inches away from being closed.

If they are more than that, the previous owner may have over torqued the tortion bar to compensate for a weaker gas strut.

Thanks for the tip! They hung open a bit with the old lift struts installed, Im sure within the tolerances you pointed out. I will double check that with no struts at all.

On a related note, I believe the previous owner was maybe getting ready to adjust them due to some of the clues i’ve found in the car and notes in the binders i got with the car. There was a huge breaker bar extension in the luggage compartment, and in the binders there was a copy of the torsion bar adjustment procedure from the Delorean magazine with some notes on it. Guessing he parked it before adjusting but who knows...

-Andy


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[andyo]

Here’s a tip for Terminal extraction

One large paper clip. Insert into squared hole next to the terminal blades. Push in until you feel resistance then it gets easier as the lock tab bends inward. About 3/8 inch. The terminal will then push out the back. Then lock tab will need to be pried back outward to reinsert the terminal.

You might be able to solder repair it.

Otherwise new terminals can be purchased to replace those.

The terminal type is JPT junior power timer.

This is great! Thank you very much!

-Andy


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[DMC5180]

This is great! Thank you very much!

-Andy


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Your Welcome.

If you are replacing the Terminal, do both of them so the wires are equal length. Here is the correct type of tool for crimping them.


ABN Open Barrel Crimper, Wire Crimper Tool for 14-24 Gauge Wire, Pin Terminal Crimper, Crimp Tool, Wire Crimping Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8S1BGF..._fHnCEb4ZXJRWQ

If you are unsure how to use it, just search Youtube for open barrel terminal crimping.

[cdrusn]

I 'saved' an alfa Romeo engine that was seized up by pouring ATF into each cylinder until it was completely full. Every day or so I would check to see how much fluid had
disappeared from the full cylinder showing that it had gone through the rings. In a week each cylinder would drain almost immediately. At that point the engine would
easily turn with a wrench. I changed the engine oil out (about 9 quarts with ATF), filter and it started right up. Smoked like crazy but after all the ATF on the top of the pistons burned out and a change in spark plugs it ran perfect. What a great project, tackle the rusty frame as soon as you can.

[andyo]

I’m sorry i haven’t update my thread in a while, i’m going to try and be better about that! Some of you may be following what i’ve done on the facebook group “Delorean Restoration projects” since thats where i’ve been posting mostly.

I’ve made a ton of progress since my last update so ill try to hit the high points.

First up, The Engine.

After figuring out that my Kjet was toast, and looking at the cost of the parts i made the decision to go with a Carburetor conversion. From a cost and simplicity stand point it made the most sense to me. I also liked that it will be easy to revisit the kjet in the future since i didn’t destroy anything thats not replaceable. All i have to say about this is that some find this route to be taboo for some reason, i don’t fully understand why and i’m not really interested to debate it anymore! lol!

That said, the engine runs and runs strong! I had a feeling it would after everything i found to be good when i was going through it. Turns out that this car looked much worse off than it actually was so i’m pretty happy about that.

Heres a link to a video of it running. I took the video, The channel owner posted it with my permission.

https://youtu.be/99Ed7XxjkHo

So once i knew the engine ran strong, my next big rock to tackle was the frame rot. I knew it was going to he too difficult to get a good repair on it with the car together so I started preparing to separate the car. On e i was ready i had a bunch of friends and co-workers come and help me out. I used four scissor jacks and cinder blocks with wood beams to lift the body up. Was a little nerve racking but it went very smoothly.





Following the separation, I initially thought i could have a shop do the frame repair, but i needed to get it to them and to do that i had to strip everything off the frame. That was coming anyway, but it gave me motivation to do the work quickly. I was lucky that there wasn’t much that was stuck or hard to remove. Just the flexible brake lines really. I soaked those and was very careful and got them out without breaking the mount brackets off. I made sure to keep track of all the nuts and bolts of all the things coming off, and boxes everything up by “system”. Coolant stuff, front suspension stuff, rear suspension stuff etc.
i was able to borrow an engine hoist from my boss, actually he’s lent me a lot of stuff! Best boss ever. The engine is on a stand and the trans is separated as well. I have some questions about what i should do to the transmission before i put this back together but ill ask in a separate post.

This picture is pretty much mid teardown.

In all honesty this car needed this level of attention before it would be a reliable driving car anyway so i’m happy i did not this and i’ve really had a ton of fun in the process.

So once it was all tore down i trailered the frame over to a local shop. They took one look at the frame and said, its cheaper to buy a different one. I explained that in this case it would likely cost me $5k to $7k to find a frame in good condition. They were surprised, and so we talked a bit more but the best they thought they could do was going to be around $4k.... and they couldn’t get to it anytime soon. I went home to explore my options and think on it some more. A few days later a co-worker caught me in the hall and wanted a update on the car. He suggested that i talk to another guy we knew about helping me out. Turns out he’s a competent welder and was more than willing to lend me his skills. And so, we are currently in the process of fixing it ourselves!






I think this will turn out to be a good repair, and also freed up funds to continue on with other areas and parts that needed replacement. Its my hope that at some point i’ll have the ability to do a stainless frame swap, but right now this will get the car to a useable point.

So in the meantime between frame work days, i have been addressing other parts.

I have completely refurbished the brake calipers, parking brakes, And brake booster. (No pictures... Apparently my picture taking is lacking...) I Plan to get a new master cylinder and stainless braided flex lines to finish up that system.

I have had the suspension parts blasted, i have painted most of them and already have all new bushings to press in. I plan to box in the lower control arms as well. Im looking at getting new springs from DMCH or DGo... not sure which way to go. Also definitely need new shocks. Im thinking i may just go with the Delorean Europe set with the thought that i may upgrade suspension drastically in the future. Im also thinking since thats the case maybe i should just go with what DMCH has for now and save some money. Again not sure what i should do there so advice and opinions are very welcome!

As for the coolant system, all the pipes are in good shape, i cleaned them up and will reuse them. I have all new rubber and clamps for the whole thing as well. I have new DMCH version of the fans, will reuse the stock shroud, and i’m debating on a new radiator... it works fine, as i let the car idle for literally hours in the driveway in the hot florida summer. No leaks and no over heating. But that doesn’t mean the minute i start driving it around it wont suddenly spring a leak... plus all the work i’ve done so far may have damaged it.... ill probably get a new one.


One night I decided i needed to rid the interior of the last area of mice infestation remnants and that meant pulling the heater/AC box and cleaning it. I pulled it out and disassembled it completely. Washed it and right now i’m collecting parts and images of how the foam on the flaps was placed. I’ve been asked by others to document the rebuild. I plan to do that and make a How To post for this.


Questions i have on the AC... i bought a new evap core, have the later version dryer. Need to get a condenser and compressor. I have the front to back lines (DGo version) i need the line that goes from condenser to the evap core. I haven’t dedicated a lot of brain power to thinking this through yet, but right now i’m really confused about r12 vs r134 part compatibility. Since i’m replacing everything in the system will i be limited to only r134 or what? I’ve only just begun to research that so i hope the opportunity buys i made on parts wont be for nothing...

Best for last, I had the wheels blasted and powder coated in Bengal Silver, they turned out awesome! They look brand new. I have the Hankook tire set ready to go on them with some nice metal valve stems. The wheels will be the nicest part of the car for a while! LOL!


My helpers having some fun in the tire stack!

Thanks for reading! Any inputs you guys have are appreciated!

-Andy


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[Mark D]

Threads like this are why I keep coming back to this forum. Great work so far, and thanks for the updates!