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Thread: Bogging down on acceleration and then leveling off between shifts

  1. #11
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Quote Originally Posted by sztybel View Post
    I ran the dwell meter last night. When the car first started up it was about midway on the meter and then dropped to zero within about 15 seconds. The weird part is I can still hear the frequency valve.

    It drove, with hesitation, both uphill and on straightaways. I feel like I am chasing a ghost.


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    Are you sure the FV is buzzing when you read zero deg? The idle motor buzzes also. If the FV is still buzzing I would say your meter is not working correctly. A good test for your meter is to push the wide open throttle switch and the meter should read a steady 54 deg.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #12
    Senior Member cpistocco's Avatar
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    Location:  Cranston, RI

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    timing

    I had a similar problem...
    I was getting vacuum advance when I wasn't supposed to...
    Check microswitch operation and Vacuum solenoid (which is connected to the vacuum line that connects to distributor).

  3. #13
    Member sztybel's Avatar
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    Location:  Flemington, NJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by cpistocco View Post
    I had a similar problem...
    I was getting vacuum advance when I wasn't supposed to...
    Check microswitch operation and Vacuum solenoid (which is connected to the vacuum line that connects to distributor).
    So was your vacuum solenoid stuck?

    I have the air box off the car and the micro switch is right there. How did you know that part was no longer doing it's job?

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  4. #14
    Senior Member cpistocco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sztybel View Post
    So was your vacuum solenoid stuck?

    I have the air box off the car and the micro switch is right there. How did you know that part was no longer doing it's job?

    Sent from my H1A1000 using Tapatalk
    Pull the vacuum hose off your vacuum advance on top of distributor.
    On a cold engine you should NEVER get advance.
    On a warm engine, you should not get advance at idle....only upon acceleration.

  5. #15
    Member sztybel's Avatar
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    Location:  Flemington, NJ

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    My VIN:    2647

    Quote Originally Posted by cpistocco View Post
    Pull the vacuum hose off your vacuum advance on top of distributor.
    On a cold engine you should NEVER get advance.
    On a warm engine, you should not get advance at idle....only upon acceleration.
    Am I hooking the disconnected vacuum line to a vacuum gauge or just feeling the vacuum solenoid for actuating in the instances described??


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  6. #16
    Member cis6409's Avatar
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    No need for a gauge, you can feel it with your finger on the end of the hose.
    Last edited by cis6409; 04-09-2020 at 11:16 AM.
    only from the past can we choose the correct path for the future...

  7. #17
    Member sztybel's Avatar
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    Location:  Flemington, NJ

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    Quote Originally Posted by cis6409 View Post
    No need for a gauge, you can feel it with your finger on the end of the hose.
    I see. Thank you for the tips!


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  8. #18
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Once you confirm vacuum at the distributor, check the timing as Bitsy suggested...at Idle AND high rev.
    (Sounds a lot like low timing....)

  9. #19
    Not a self styled 'Guru'
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    I would suggest following this guide on checking correct routing of the vac pipes (without the need to remove the manifold):
    http://www.deloreaneurotec.uk/viewto...t=4619&p=61868

    Following by verifying the ignition timing is correctly set at 13 degrees btdc.
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  10. #20
    Member sztybel's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Flemington, NJ

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    My VIN:    2647

    Today we checked the vacuum and timing. All was good there.

    However when we started checking the fuel injectors we noticed a bad spray pattern on the first two we pulled out and checked.

    Does anyone in NJ offer fuel injector cleaning? I'd be cleaning all 6 of course.

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