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Thread: No 1st or 2nd with automatic manually selected

  1. #11
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I never drove an auto D but every other car selecting the lower gears that just prevents it shifting to a higher gear then you have selected and it will still use lower gears when necessary. It's function is mostly to reduce you burning out the brakes going down a mountain.
    Some do some don't. My 99 Ranger will start off in 2nd, like many pickups and older Fords. Same for the 96 Blazer, but not the 89. Besides lowering torque, many demand to prevent the transmission from doing a lot of up/down shifting when in the mountains, towing...similar to those with overdrive and a means to turn it off.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Some do some don't. My 99 Ranger will start of in 2nd, like many pickups and older Fords. Same for the 96 Blazer, but not the 89. Besides lowering torque, many demand to prevent the transmission from doing a lot of up/down shifting when in the mountains, towing...similar to those with overdrive and a means to turn it off.
    I wish my 2018 Toyota would let me select the gears. It does let you select the limit (highest gear) (It is an 8 speed). I like to drive to get the most MPG in that car and sometimes it takes to long to upshift.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #13
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    Is there any way that a portion of the shift computer is getting the proper power, but some of it isn't? I ask because when someone is troubleshooting a suspected shift computer problem and want to rule out a mechanical issue, they pull the shift computer fuse and what you get is a transmission that only has 3rd gear. It doesn't exactly follow what's been said in this thread, but it does if you go back to how the thread title reads.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post

    I don't understand how in post 1, you said you could select 1st...and Park worked. But, adjusting it, you get one or the other.
    You can move the shifter to the first gear request location but it just doesn't work unless I adjust the linkage so far that park no longer works. You can move the lever to the park position but the linkage isn't actually engaging the parking pawl when first gear request is working.

    I played with the linkage some more and I can now get the 2nd gear request to work with the shifter in the #1 request position with park still working. However no matter how it is adjusted can't I get 1st request and park to work with the same adjustment. I guess I will leave it be for now. I'm doing this on a lift so its very easy to make adjustments.

    Thanks for the help every one.

  5. #15
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Is there any way that a portion of the shift computer is getting the proper power, but some of it isn't? I ask because when someone is troubleshooting a suspected shift computer problem and want to rule out a mechanical issue, they pull the shift computer fuse and what you get is a transmission that only has 3rd gear. It doesn't exactly follow what's been said in this thread, but it does if you go back to how the thread title reads.
    I think I see what you mean, but they are ground controlled.
    The two solenoids are fed power when the key is in the run position. The GC circuitry determines when to ground them and turn them on: both for 1st, Sol B only for 2nd, neither for 3rd (same as pulling the fuse). So, when you are cruising in 3rd (Drive) and move the selector to 2nd, the multifunction switch grounds Sol B (2nd gear), directly. But when you move the selector to 1st, the multifunction switch also grounds a section on the boards that control the 1st gear shift point, and it determines if it is safe to turn Sol A on (1st gear).

    Since it is OK in all respects when Drive is selected, most of the other causes in the trouble shooting chart don't fit well:
    Seems the selector adjustment is OK (but not clear); The "Solenoid Shift valves" work in Drive; Same for the "valve body"; I don't see how it could be the "microswitch", else it wouldn't like going into 3rd while in Drive; Rebuilding the GC didn't solving the problem. That leaves the "harness, wiring, plugs, sockets and grounds" and the "multifunction switch".
    I would assume the rebuilder checked the multifunction switch if it was sent (no reply), which would cover most of the wiring. That basically leaves the multifunction switch and its plugs and sockets...

  6. #16
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    I checked the two grounds that you suggested and they are good but I believe this is just a linkage issue. Perhaps something is bent or installed incorrectly. If I disconnect the belcrank and manually put it into (moving shift cable running into trans by hand) 1st or 2nd request it works as it should. The previous owner of this car had several shops look at it and they were never able to figure it out. ( he had it for 25 years and said it was always like this )

  7. #17
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outwesty View Post
    You can move the shifter to the first gear request location but it just doesn't work unless I adjust the linkage so far that park no longer works. You can move the lever to the park position but the linkage isn't actually engaging the parking pawl when first gear request is working.

    I played with the linkage some more and I can now get the 2nd gear request to work with the shifter in the #1 request position with park still working. However no matter how it is adjusted can't I get 1st request and park to work with the same adjustment. I guess I will leave it be for now. I'm doing this on a lift so its very easy to make adjustments.

    Thanks for the help every one.
    If you adjusted the selector linkage per the manual, I'd suspect something worn or the cable sheath is not secure, I.E., not getting full travel at the bellcrank.

  8. #18
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    Do you have the top quadrant plate removed while you're making those adjustments? I have found on my own car that depending on how exactly you have things clipped together and installed, the plastic (or stainless if you have the decorative one) slot the shift lever moves through can get in the way and prevent you from getting all the way down into 1 or all the way up into PARK.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  9. #19
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    If you adjusted the selector linkage per the manual, I'd suspect something worn or the cable sheath is not secure, I.E., not getting full travel at the bellcrank.


    +1

    Check that your bellcrank bolt is pivoting without play.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #20
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    Correct O-ring?

    Quote Originally Posted by Outwesty View Post
    Hello. My 83 started to show the signs of a failing computer as it was sticking in 3rd sometimes. I immediately sent the trans governor to DMCH and installed it yesterday. It shifts perfectly 1 through 3 now when in drive but when I select 1 or 2 manually with the lever it still acts like it is in drive. I double checked the linkage per the manual and it appears to be dead on. Reverse lights, park and neutral safety switch all work. I'm a VW mechanic by trade and have owned 3 DMC's over the years and pretty good with them but this one has me stumped. I've put less than 200 miles on the car since ownership after re-furbing the fuel and cooling system as it was a low mileage sitter.


    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank You

    Dave
    You may have gotten this resolved long ago, but . . . . My car was doing the same thing. The transmission shifted fine but wouldn't hold 1 or 2. Also, the backup lights where on when the selector was in park. I heard everything about bellcrank adjustments, shifter adjustment, etc., but then someone asked me if the correct O-ring was installed where one part of the computer modulator is inserted into the transmission. The correct part is 103732 at Delorean.com. It's about 1" diameter. It's easy to pull out - two cap screws and a clamp. Sure enough, the O-ring installed was thicker that the new one. A very tiny difference. I put in the new one, reinstalled the unit, added the quart or so of transmission fluid I'd lost, and everything was fixed! It will now manually downshift or hold on 1 or 2, and the backup lights are only on when in reverse. I would have never guessed such a minor thing would throw everything off. No other adjustments were necessary. Just shows how valuable the experience of other owners and mechanics is when something quirky like this happens?

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