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Thread: What's your "social distancing" project?

  1. #21
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,828

    My VIN:    03572

    I bought some anti-freeze today. Walmart is still the best place at $10.88 gal for concentrated. I have had the otterstat pipe with the screw in otterstat for a few years now and figure it's a good time to install that and replace the coolant.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Location:  Virginia

    Posts:    492

    I finally removed my center console, replaced some HVAC bulbs, and sent my radio to Dimitri to work his magic. Iíve only been putting it off for a year or so.
    DMCF rebuild 2008, Stage II, Eibach

  3. #23
    Senior Member dmcerik's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  West Michigan

    Posts:    174

    My VIN:    04512

    I have a spare set of brakes calipers that I'm rebuilding. Then rebuilding the set that's currently on my car just for fun. I'll be swapping out all 4 rotors during that time too.

    Outside of that, I've been out of the Delorean scene for awhile. In the late 90s and early 00's I collected a few parts cars. All the normal good parts have probably been taken, which leaves me with about 12 big boxes full of random pieces. I'm using this time to go through all that again and see what I have. And then either find new homes for those pieces, or junk them.
    Erik
    04512 since '99

  4. #24
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2016

    Location:  The LC

    Posts:    930

    My VIN:    10907

    IMG_20200402_180934947.jpg

    Heater hard lines too, I guess. Never leave your car parked for 23 years with coolant in the lines, kids!

  5. #25
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    My "isolation" projects:

    1. taillight upgrade
    2. AT computer replacement
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  6. #26
    Stupid Newbie DaraSue's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2016

    Location:  The LC

    Posts:    930

    My VIN:    10907

    Turns out you can't replace those heater lines without taking the body off the frame so I just had to clean them up and make do. But then during pressure testing the y-pipe hose sprung a leak so now I get to pull the intake off for the 3rd time in 3-1/2 years, oh joy.

  7. #27
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    1,141

    My VIN:    10201

    Quote Originally Posted by DaraSue View Post
    Turns out you can't replace those heater lines without taking the body off the frame so I just had to clean them up and make do. But then during pressure testing the y-pipe hose sprung a leak so now I get to pull the intake off for the 3rd time in 3-1/2 years, oh joy.
    I don't need mine anymore if you'd like to buy them. Too bad it's right next to the fuel lines or I'd say you could try having them welded.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,828

    My VIN:    03572

    Well I finally did it. I installed my new otterstat pipe with the screw in otterstat.

    First problem was dripping leaks from the rear hose (that was a new OEM hose about 13 years ago). Fix was use more than 40 inch/lbs of torque. Someday I need to get the silicone replacements for those. All the other hoses are silicone and that front one did not leak with 40 inch/lbs. This was with no pressure just filled the coolant.

    Second problem was a drip from the new otterstat. I pulled it out and saw the aluminum crush washer had only contacted in two places 180 degrees apart. I had given that a lot of torque before I installed the pipe. So I think the problem was the otterstat was not getting tight on the crush washer. I had a spare otterstat and installed that with two crush washers and that seemed to work with no leaks. By the way you need a 29 mm socket for that otterstat.

    Third problem was a mud dobber built it's nest in the thermostat bleed nipple.

    I need to do a few cool down and warmups to be sure all the air is out and engine is running normal temps.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    4,591

    My VIN:    3937

    The two main things I've been working on are an ATF leak and replacing the fuel filter. My little ATF drip from the past season or two turned into a lot more than just a few drips once the garage warmed up. Figure that's got to be related to the rubber seals expanding or contracting. Pretty much all of it is coming from the seal on the base of the dipstick tube. Pain in the rump I'll get to shortly, but wanted to finish the fuel filter first. I did drain the ATF cause I was tired of getting dripped on while working on the fuel system!

    My fuel filter was original as far as I can tell. 39 years worth, yeehaw. Looked like shit though. So I bought new clamps, fasteners and filter and also had my last new SS fuel line to put in that was part of a nice kit from DPI Josh. All that's pretty much good. Now I struggle with the accumulator/hardline side.

    Back story on this one is back in about 2011, when a shop I used to help me replace my accumulator got a little too twisty with getting things loose, they created a small pinhole leak in the hardline just in front of the filter. He went ahead and cut that short section out and put in a short piece of rubber fuel line hose in its place. Was fine ever since then, no leaks or any trouble.

    For the life of me I couldn't get that hardline fitting end to seal again. Figure the little bevel thing on the end got too corroded or misshapen and it won't seal. I reefed on the nut pretty good, but it just wouldn't cooperate. So, instead, I'm going to put this flexible hose replacement I have had for years in finally. It's meant to replace that hardline and came from Midwest once upon a time.

    The routing is slightly different from what I understand. It won't go through that same hole in the frame that the hardline does. Instead, it'll go along the frame, up over the driver's side transmission mount and then in through the hole in the frame where the shift cable is. That gets it into the accumulator hole to connect with the centre connection on the accumulator.

    I wasn't sure how hard I can pull on the 17 mm wrench on that hardline nut, but figure it's going to take a big tug to get it loose. The hose has an M14 connection on a 90 degree fitting to go on there. I'm not sure what size that tee is on the accumulator though and whether I can connect it to where the hardline goes or connect it to the accumulator directly and not use the tee. Anyone know? It'd probably be better for routing and not bending the hose so much if it goes onto the tee right where the hardline nut is because of how it needs to turn back towards the rear of the car to get out that hole in the frame.

    Not my favorite place to be under the car while on jack stands. Trying to figure out as much of this above ground as possible.

    IMG_0906.jpgIMG_0931.jpgIMG_0929.jpgIMG_1036.jpgIMG_1020.jpg


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  10. #30
    Dr. Bob Bob635's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    128

    My VIN:    4675, 4190, 3114 and others

    Club(s):   (DMA) (DMWC) (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    My social distancing projects

    1. Get ready for Delorean Weekend
    2. More development of the Iron Man Delorean
    3. Electric power steering in the Electric Delorean
    4. 1000 sq ft addition to home with media and lecture room
    5. New Delorean Documentary "the Missing Pieces - Part 1."
    6. Consulting to public health agencies on COV - 2.
    7. On line Trivia with our "trivaholics" team.
    8. Working with the NIH on our next publication
    9. lot's of other things

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