Now put a small piece of 3/8" wood on top of it, screw the top of the cover down, and whip out your heat gun...
Now put a small piece of 3/8" wood on top of it, screw the top of the cover down, and whip out your heat gun...
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Location: Northwest Florida
Posts: 324
My VIN: Midproduction
I had no issues installing this style pump. I do have 1/8" thick foam between the cover and the tub as a seal so that helps, but the pump should collapse low enough if you put some weight over the center (I used my foot), to where the cover will fit and close over the pump without any other modification.
It will, assuming that the DPI pump isn't much higher than the DMCH new style pump (2 years ago). I think they are about the same though.
I put two in w/o any problems. But when I put one in my own car a year later, it was 1/2" too high. I read that they had changed to yet another pump (check valve problems/?) and I called Dave at DMCMW. He said he had seen similar on 10% (iirc) of the cars. [...I remember posting about this now.]
Anyway, after doing others, the easiest way I found was to screw the top of the cover down, weigh the bottom toward the front with a steel block, and wave the gun close to where it hits, but in a circle eight. (I had two small Phillips head screwdrivers through the front screw holes to guide it, but really didn't need them.) Main thing is to apply constant pressure (use a weight) on it, keep moving the gun, and be very patient!
(A piece of wood 3/8" x ~3" dia. sat in place nicely for me. But I believe 1/4" would be plenty for most cars with the problem.)
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
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Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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Location: PA
Posts: 95
My VIN: 0952
Several feet of tubing should be enough to eliminate any excess heat. Out of curiosity, have you accounted for the two 200°F± coolant pipes that run right next to the fuel cell?
Is there also a measurement of specific coolant temperature, or just a buzzing of the fuel pump? Otherwise you might be looking at a defective carbon canister.
Robert
People they come together, people they fall apart...
I've not done any measurements of the effect of the coolant pipes running next to the tank. Since the return fuel is pretty solid one degree warmer than the supply fuel, I think that is the major cause of gas tank fuel heating.
I seem to remember when the return fuel goes above 125 deg. F my fuel pump would start buzzing. I did wrap the AC accumulator with copper pipe which cooled the return fuel and that fix made me never hear the buzzing again. But I've since replaced the pump with a Tahoe type.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 06-05-2020 at 05:49 AM.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
Posts: 256