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Thread: Deloreango fuel pump didn't make it 50 miles.

  1. #21
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Now put a small piece of 3/8" wood on top of it, screw the top of the cover down, and whip out your heat gun...

  2. #22
    Under Ron's watchful eye. Glory be to Ron! Michael's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Now put a small piece of 3/8" wood on top of it, screw the top of the cover down, and whip out your heat gun...
    I probably would go that route had I thought about it but I cut a hole in the cover to male clearance. It's not too bad as it gives me a window to visually check for leaks without removing the cover.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    Now put a small piece of 3/8" wood on top of it, screw the top of the cover down, and whip out your heat gun...
    I don't think you can soften the cover enough to make it fit.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #24
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    I had no issues installing this style pump. I do have 1/8" thick foam between the cover and the tub as a seal so that helps, but the pump should collapse low enough if you put some weight over the center (I used my foot), to where the cover will fit and close over the pump without any other modification.

  5. #25
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I don't think you can soften the cover enough to make it fit.
    It will, assuming that the DPI pump isn't much higher than the DMCH new style pump (2 years ago). I think they are about the same though.

    I put two in w/o any problems. But when I put one in my own car a year later, it was 1/2" too high. I read that they had changed to yet another pump (check valve problems/?) and I called Dave at DMCMW. He said he had seen similar on 10% (iirc) of the cars. [...I remember posting about this now.]

    Anyway, after doing others, the easiest way I found was to screw the top of the cover down, weigh the bottom toward the front with a steel block, and wave the gun close to where it hits, but in a circle eight. (I had two small Phillips head screwdrivers through the front screw holes to guide it, but really didn't need them.) Main thing is to apply constant pressure (use a weight) on it, keep moving the gun, and be very patient!
    (A piece of wood 3/8" x ~3" dia. sat in place nicely for me. But I believe 1/4" would be plenty for most cars with the problem.)

  6. #26
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    I used Josh's (DeLorean Industries) pump setup without the fuel level sensor. I never had any issue with fuel level readings with the stock sender because I am old enough to look at a 1/8 gauge and stop for gas without needing to get it down to 20 miles range before I decide to fill up.

    He also sends EVERYTHING needed. Nice lines with 2 options (4 lines total), beefy check valve and AN hardware, tank seal and clamp, along with a new fuel filter.

    Attachment 63359
    Looks like the tahoe pump we were recommending.

    Nice thing is it comes with everything you need. And has proper crimped and assembled hoses, not the cheesy clamp on ends and bulk hose deal DMC sends out.

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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    I used Josh's (DeLorean Industries) pump setup without the fuel level sensor. I never had any issue with fuel level readings with the stock sender because I am old enough to look at a 1/8 gauge and stop for gas without needing to get it down to 20 miles range before I decide to fill up.

    He also sends EVERYTHING needed. Nice lines with 2 options (4 lines total), beefy check valve and AN hardware, tank seal and clamp, along with a new fuel filter.

    Attachment 63359
    Ive been researching fuel pumps, and this post was very helpful. Thanks for the picture!
    '86 BMW 325es
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  8. #28
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    That's what I concluded from my testing. I've though about using a controller on the fuel pump to reduce that fuel returned to the tank. Basically it would use a pressure sensor to reduce the pump RPM when pressure gets to high. You still get returned fuel of the frequency valve.
    Several feet of tubing should be enough to eliminate any excess heat. Out of curiosity, have you accounted for the two 200F coolant pipes that run right next to the fuel cell?

    Is there also a measurement of specific coolant temperature, or just a buzzing of the fuel pump? Otherwise you might be looking at a defective carbon canister.
    Robert

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  9. #29
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCVegas View Post
    Several feet of tubing should be enough to eliminate any excess heat. Out of curiosity, have you accounted for the two 200F coolant pipes that run right next to the fuel cell?

    Is there also a measurement of specific coolant temperature, or just a buzzing of the fuel pump? Otherwise you might be looking at a defective carbon canister.
    I've not done any measurements of the effect of the coolant pipes running next to the tank. Since the return fuel is pretty solid one degree warmer than the supply fuel, I think that is the major cause of gas tank fuel heating.

    I seem to remember when the return fuel goes above 125 deg. F my fuel pump would start buzzing. I did wrap the AC accumulator with copper pipe which cooled the return fuel and that fix made me never hear the buzzing again. But I've since replaced the pump with a Tahoe type.
    Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 06-05-2020 at 05:49 AM.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Looks like the tahoe pump we were recommending.

    Nice thing is it comes with everything you need. And has proper crimped and assembled hoses, not the cheesy clamp on ends and bulk hose deal DMC sends out.
    I agree about the hoses. When I purchased my aftermarket Tahoe pump, I used standard nylon fuel lines for the pump.

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