Door Lock Procedure

[David T]

From my experience, if you can't get the CLS to work consistently, it usually winds up being burnt up solenoids. The more you try it the worse it gets as the solenoids get hotter and hotter. There is a procedure to take them apart and rewind them or you can just get new ones.

[FLYBOY]

Ok I’ll try readjusting tomorrow
On the lock relay I have Hervey’s unit and bitsyncer checked it out 3 weeks ago said everything looked ok.
Should I have a second opinion and who could do that?
Maybe it got worse idk?
Remember I do have Toby upgraded solenoids




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[FLYBOY]

Well looks like I can either get the front lock rod or the rear lock rod to work but not both.
Adjusting the other rods do not seems to help, as the wiper arm doesn’t move forward or rearward since it’s screwed to the door.
I believe to main culprit to be the actuator as it does not seem to have the strength to pull one way or another.
Now without the lock rods installed it works fine or if it’s pressed by hand on that side, but not from the other side or by remote, it’s seems to be too weak to throw all the way from opposing side.
I’ve ordered another actuator from Toby
I’ll see what that result is when I get it in.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Remember your lock ECU may have to short of an on time for actuators. I never tested the timing, just the function when I had it here. The stock lock ECU had plenty of time to work actuators but the Zilla was to short. They all seemed to run the same circuit but the timing is dependent on the current required by the relays.

If you have a soldering iron, get 2, 1000 uf. 16 volt capacitors and bridge one over each or the existing 1000 uf caps. That will double the time on with the ECU.

[Ron]

+1

FWIW- It sounds like it might be set up correctly, so between the two, I'd lean toward the CLS and try the caps since back in post 24 it was the passenger side acting up.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I got the door lock unit today. The on time is definitely short at 160 ms. for each lock and unlock. I think the OEM unit ran around 1 second. So Hervey put in relays with a high coil current requirement. Now I have to look through my junk box for some capacitors that will fit in the case.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I found some caps. Timing now 340 ms.

Not sure if this is an OEM door lock unit and Hervey did some work on it so he put his sticker on the case.

[FLYBOY]

Well he did something I sent him the one I had in there I think it was oem?


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Well he did something I sent him the one I had in there I think it was oem?

Maybe I'm wrong in thinking the OEM door lock unit was around 1 second of timing. I think my Zilla unit was around 100 ms. I now run my own design for the door lock unit.

Since your running actuators, I'm guessing you have added the relays so the outputs now ground or switch to 12 volt pulses driving the actuators. The OEM door lock unit just floats the off circuit which works for the stock solenoid.

Let me know that you have the relay setup before I ship your door lock unit back to you.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So it looks like Toby changed his lock actuators to work with the OEM door lock unit. I have his old ones and it only had two wires where you had to reverse the ground and 12 volts to work them the other way. It looks like now there is a ground and two wires that attach to the two OEM solenoid wires.

But his site says works with his door lock unit. So I'm still not seeing info on the actuators. I know when I bought mine he offered a kit of relays you had to use with the OEM door lock unit.