Door Lock Procedure

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now I see your running actuators. If the timing on your door lock ECU is to short, it won't power the actuators long enough. The original fan Zilla the timing was to short for actuators. The OEM lock unit seemed to have plenty of time. What Zilla did was use the same circuit but used larger relays that needed more current and thus shortened the time. You can increase the time on either lock ECU by increasing the 1000 uf cap to a larger value. Adding another 1000 uf cap over the original ones will double the capacitance and hence double the time it powers the outputs.

[Ron]

Does using the key on the driver side make it lock and unlock?

[FLYBOY]

I’ll check

[FLYBOY]

Well so far, going back through it again...
After I readjusted the driver door
If I leave the front (non adjustable) (and lord knows I tried to adjust) lock release disconnected and the exterior key lock rod
Everything works fine!
The front lock latch appears to stick so I’ll change that out tomorrow.. and see, I think I have a spare.
I’ll add the exterior key lock after that.
But after most of the day on the driver door some progress?
It only doesn’t throw on the driver door so I don’t think it would be the relays but Bitsycner did look at the relays and there were fine so not sure

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[Ron]

If I'm following correctly, it went from working with the rear lock link ("lock rod", post 35) disconnected, to working with the front lock link ("lock latch") disconnected. That be the case, I don't see the problem being either latch.

When you put the front lock link in the bellcrank, make sure that the arm at the front latch is pulled toward the bellcrank (unlocked position). With the actuator retracted (unlocked position), pull on the rod to eliminate any slack and bend it so that it will slip into its bellcrank hole without moving the bellcrank. Make sure that the arm at the rear latch is pulled toward the bellcrank (unlocked position). Pull on the rod to eliminate any slack and adjust it so that it will slip into its bellcrank hole without moving the bellcrank. Make sure that the bends at the latch end of both links are oriented correctly and that both lock nuts are tight on the rear link. (If the ends are rotated wrong, the bends can work their way into the hole in the plastic arm and bind things up...)

[FLYBOY]

I was just waiting on a wiper arm since mine broke while adjusting and it wasn’t making a good contact
w/o rods. Anyway.
Got the new one installed along with a new driver front latch just to be sure it doesn’t jam up like the previous old one.
Well everything is working fine except the dam front lock latch rod won’t reach (non adjustable) of course I tried bending it but to no Avail.
Right now it’s disconnected and even the launchers are working too but as soon as I connect it things bind up.
I know some owners leave it disconnected but after weeks of work I hate to have one last rod not connected
I want Success any suggestions maybe a new rod?


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[SS Spoiler]

been running 20 years without front lock
rod.....no problems...

[Ron]

A new rod isn't going to be any longer...
I don't think the front one usually needs much bending, if at all. Maybe try bending it back like it was or match the one in the other door.
If it all works now w/o the front rod, I would think you could them lengthen the rear link until the front slips in freely. Then move the actuator/solenoid assembly to get the wiper arm back into position.
...double check that the latches release at the same time afterwards.

[FLYBOY]

Ok so are ya sayin move everything alittle forward?


I hesitant cause it took so long to get it this close but I’ll do it
Now
I one thing thats got me scratching my head, is the CLS is not working with 100% consistity on that driver door the locks don’t get throw with the remote all the time, maybe 60/40 but by hand everything works 100%
Now I have 12.6v on the battery but I noticed with a battery charger they do throw no problem with the remote


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[Ron]

Ok so are ya sayin move everything alittle forward

Yes...after taking the rear rod out of the bellcrank.
Everything is based off of the OEM length of the front rod. So even if you have to start over, you have to set the bellcrank off of it by moving the actuator, then go from there.

...one thing thats got me scratching my head, is the CLS is not working with 100% consistity on that driver door the locks don’t get throw with the remote all the time, maybe 60/40 but by hand everything works 100%

??? Except when the front rod is disconnected, right?

Now I have 12.6v on the battery but I noticed with a battery charger they do throw no problem with the remote

If the battery will turn the engine over by itself, it's not the problem.
(12.6V doesn't mean there is enough amperage.)