So I've been lurking on here for years and watching you all convert to EFI and never quite getting up the nerve to do it myself. In December I was able to do some side work and, well, that money went into me converting my car from K-Jet to EFI.
The hardware side of the conversion is done: I sourced a Z7U manifold and injector rails and was able to make an adapter plate to mount a throttle body off of a Jeep 4.0. The Jeep throttle body allows me to use the integral TPS and IAC that were not part of the Z7U throttle body that came with the manifold.
Since I had no idea how crazy I was going to get with this thing in the future, I bought a MS3X with the relay board for this conversion.
I have everything installed and plumbed and, as far as I can tell, the wiring completed for the new sensors, injectors, etc. My current goal is to get fuel-only running first before I do anything with running spark control, as you guys have all mentioned that fuel-only is the easiest way to go. Since I'm a complete noob, I took your advice.
I followed the guide opethmike posted and used the settings he suggested in his writeup for the initial settings in TunerStudio. The car started right off but immediately started missing like crazy and running extremely rich. The sync loss counter started counting up quickly before resetting to 0 and starting over while the sync "light" at the bottom of the gauge screen flashes from green to red constantly. The 'Engine RPM' gauge flashes red repeatedly with the displayed rpm quite literally going from 10,000+ rpm to 0. It shows what I guess are 'normal' rpm readings while the starter is cranking. It only goes crazy after the engine starts.
I have the ignition currently set for 'basic trigger', as the car doesn't start at all when this setting is changed to 'fuel only'. I started with connecting the "tach" terminal on the relay board to the white/slate wire in the connector for the old rpm relay. After seeing all of the sync issues, I moved it to the white/slate at the old idle controller connection behind the driver's seat. I have not tried connecting it directly to the - terminal on the coil, but I know I read someone on this forum had issues with that placement. I've read so much today that I don't remember whose thread that was on.
The MS3X and the LC-2 wideband are both grounded together at the same place behind the passenger seat at the bulkhead ground. There is an 8AWG wire connecting the battery to this bulkhead connector and the engine block. The MS3X constant 12+ is wired to the battery directly and the LC-2 is wired as it showed in its instruction manual with a relay connected to the battery +. The trigger wires for both the MS3X and the LC-2 relay are connected to the green wire at the old rpm relay connector.
I've read several threads about sync issues, but mine seem much more severe than what I've read on other's posts. I have things grounded together like others suggested. I've been running an Accel coil for the past 15 years with it wired to receive a full 12V, but I swapped the original coil back in and moved the wires around at the resistor to their original positions without any effect.
I guess I should say that the car was running before I took it apart.As far as I know there wasn't any ignition-related issues. I had done the coil swap long ago on the suggestion of a local club member right after I bought the car.
Where would you guys start? Is there something from tuner studio I should post here? I played around a little with capturing a log file showing the things its doing if that would help.
Thanks in advance!
Mike
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