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Thread: VIN 5510 - Bill's DeLorean Restoration

  1. #11
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,521

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    [This section is as posted in the "What have you done to your DeLorean today?" post]

    Got some bad news from Toby at Delorean Service Northwest - looks like 5510 needs a new frame, or some extensive frame repair. Still trying to decide whether to bring it home, pull the body off the frame, and go to work on a full frame restoration... If anyone has thoughts on the subject, I'd love to hear it! The Stainless Steel frame is out of my budget. Tips on what work to do at the same time, how to approach it, materials to use, etc. Someone had recommended replacing the coolant lines? Maybe rebuild the suspension? If it makes a difference, my father is a professional welder with 30+ years of experience and would likely be able to do the welding for me if I handle ripping it apart and cutting out the bad stuff. He lives ~1700 miles away, so I would have to prep everything for him to do over a few days or a week, then I'd wrap it up by POR-15'ing the whole thing.

    Prior to getting the news about the frame, I also ordered a complete brake rebuild kit. New rotors, pads, seals, caliper pistons, hoses, etc. I think I'm going to pick up a full set of stainless steel brake lines as well, since the brake vacuum line is toast and the body is coming off anyway. This would mean replacing everything in the brake system except the booster, master cylinder, and calipers.

    In non-Delorean news, I sold my Honda CR-Z. I now have ample funds and room in the garage to work!


    Amazon: $123
    • Oil/fuel drain pan & funnels
    • Silicone Brake Parts lubricant
    • Wheel chocks
    • Castrol DOT4 brake fluid (3x 12oz - enough for a full replacement, I think)
    • Thread locker
    • Disk brake compressor
    • Brake cleaner
    • Copper anti-seize


    Delorean Go: $699
    • Front & rear rotors
    • Front & rear pads
    • Front & rear rebuild kits
    • Front & rear caliper pistons
    • Front & rear brake hoses
    • Misc brake hardware (retaining clips, pins, shims)
    We have no record of contact regarding a stainless frame or quoting one to you. Curious as we are the only manufacturer of stainless frames and only advertise our manual version. We have no authorized dealers and only sell directly to clients with VIN numbers. It sounds like someone was trying to pull a fast one on you.

  2. #12
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    5510

    Quote Originally Posted by Delorean Industries View Post
    We have no record of contact regarding a stainless frame or quoting one to you. Curious as we are the only manufacturer of stainless frames and only advertise our manual version. We have no authorized dealers and only sell directly to clients with VIN numbers. It sounds like someone was trying to pull a fast one on you.
    The price is on your website. Starting at $12k, and I believe there used to be an option to get the automatic version listed for ~$1k extra? Doesn't seem to be there now, but with an option or two and shipping I'd be looking at $14-$15k.

    https://deloreanindustries.com/delor...ss-frame-base/

    Don't get me wrong - if I had the money I'd be all over it, it's clearly the top of the line best option available, and I don't think it is a bad deal or overpriced for the product - it's just far outside of my budget.

  3. #13
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,521

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Yes, that is the all-out version with all of the add ons and EFI provisions. Significantly cheaper without all of that bare-bones.

  4. #14
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    5510

    Quote Originally Posted by Delorean Industries View Post
    Yes, that is the all-out version with all of the add ons and EFI provisions. Significantly cheaper without all of that bare-bones.
    Good to know!! Once I get the frame ripped apart so I can really see how bad the rust is, I'll consider shooting you an email to get a quote.

  5. #15
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,521

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    We also save all good mild steel chassis removed for frame updates. If your current frame is beyond repair, we have a massive stockpile of good mild steel chassis available.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,440

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Nice job!

    Would you please post pics of the body on the furniture dollies? Is is easy to move around?

    I'm planning to separate 4519 this year.
    Livin' the dream....

  7. #17
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    5510

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Nice job!

    Would you please post pics of the body on the furniture dollies? Is is easy to move around?

    I'm planning to separate 4519 this year.
    Sure, here you go:

    20200528_214344.jpg

    The jack stand there isn't actually under anything, I just didn't move it out of the picture. I would say that this is a pretty crappy system and does not move around almost at all. Might be caused by the kitty litter still sitting there that I need to get out of the way (was soaking up coolant), or maybe that it's not quite centered. I will say that when we first dropped the body on the dolly, we had it straight across the middle of the wood, and it flexed so much I was sure it would break if I left it like that! across the wheels is much nicer.

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

    Posts:    2,440

    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728 & 4519

    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    Sure, here you go:

    20200528_214344.jpg

    The jack stand there isn't actually under anything, I just didn't move it out of the picture. I would say that this is a pretty crappy system and does not move around almost at all. Might be caused by the kitty litter still sitting there that I need to get out of the way (was soaking up coolant), or maybe that it's not quite centered. I will say that when we first dropped the body on the dolly, we had it straight across the middle of the wood, and it flexed so much I was sure it would break if I left it like that! across the wheels is much nicer.
    Cool, thanks.

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
    Livin' the dream....

  9. #19
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    5510

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_NYS View Post
    Cool, thanks.

    Sent from my LGL164VL using Tapatalk
    Check out my other thread - I made a new dolly that is awesome: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?18...from-the-frame

  10. #20
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Seattle, WA

    Posts:    76

    My VIN:    5510

    This past week I've been making (slow) progress on getting the transmission and engine out. Currently the transmission is fully disconnected and likely only hanging on by the one bolt on the bell housing whose head sheared off. I can see a ring of rust around the bolt that is probably holding on. I've got a tiny gap going, and I'm constantly spraying it down with penetrating fluid and doing my best to try and free it. I may end up drilling out the bolt to get it free, but I'm going slow and taking my time. The engine is also mostly disconnected except for some coolant lines and stuff, which I suspect will all come off pretty easily.

    In the last week or two I've purchased a lot of tools, though! Roughly $1,000 worth. Here's the list as best I can remember:
    • 1 ton engine/shop crane
    • 2 ton load leveler
    • lifting sling
    • 1 ton engine stand and M10x75mm bolts
    • 1/2" ratchet w/ pivoting head
    • 3/8" and 1/4" torque wrenches
    • adjustable wrenches
    • long socket extensions
    • various pry bars
    • "front wheel drive axle socket set" (included 35mm for the crank)
    • 2 transmission jacks
    • 2 furniture dollies (as previously mentioned, for holding the body)
    • 4x wheel dollies (as previously mentioned, for holding the frame)
    • 4x4s, L-brackets, structural screws, and casters for DMC Dolly
    • cheap angle grinder and a couple packs of metal grinding/cut off/flap wheel discs
    • 4" PVC flange, cleanout, plug, tiki torch wick, PVC glue, baby oil, resistance wire, etc for DIY Smoke Tester.
    • corded electric torque wrench

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