FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 15 of 15 FirstFirst ... 5 13 14 15
Results 141 to 150 of 150

Thread: VIN 5510 - Bill's DeLorean Restoration

  1. #141
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    6,175

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    We don't yet - but we are planning to get as many as will fit on the roof in a couple of years.
    With that setup, any idea on how long would it take it to recharge the D?

  2. #142
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    190

    My VIN:    5510

    At home, we'll always be limited by the built in charger from the Bolt, which is 240v @ 32A, or 7.6kW. With the Bolt's battery, that means about 8 hours to go from 0 to 100%. It has 50kW DC fast charging abilities, which will do a full charge in about an hour, but that is going to take a lot of work for me to get working in the conversion. It requires the AC system.

    Where we are in central WA, we actually get a good amount of sun. About 20% more than Seattle, which is only 90 minutes away. I would like to do a minimum of 10kW of solar, targeting 20kW if we can fit it.

    I should be able to drive the car from here to Seattle for Pacific Northwest DeLorean meetups by the end of the summer - so long as I can secure a level 2 charger in the area for a few hours. I really want to bring it over to my office in Redmond, and we luckily have a charger on site.

  3. #143
    Formally hmm252000
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hillsboro, OR

    Posts:    476

    My VIN:    4099

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Here in Portland, OR, I have a south facing solar array. Over a decade, it averaged around 3MWh per year from a 3.2kW array. So a 10-20kW array would produce about 10-20MWh annually. Based on that, it's pretty easy to figure out the ROE on the system. I'm sure most installers can do an even better job calculating average output based on a particular region and how the panels are oriented. Regardless, even here in cloudy Pacific Northwest, a solar system can produce enough to cover its cost well within its lifetime.

    If you end up going to a tech session hosted by Toby, just ask in advance and see what he has. There's plenty of power in his shop, so he might have a 14-30 or similar outlet around there. You might need a 14-30 extension cord though. I still have one from back in the "dark ages" of limited public charging. Thankfully I haven't needed it in about 8 years now, but it still sits in my trunk just incase.

  4. #144
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,000

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris4099 View Post
    Here in Portland, OR, I have a south facing solar array. Over a decade, it averaged around 3MWh per year from a 3.2kW array. So a 10-20kW array would produce about 10-20MWh annually. Based on that, it's pretty easy to figure out the ROE on the system. I'm sure most installers can do an even better job calculating average output based on a particular region and how the panels are oriented. Regardless, even here in cloudy Pacific Northwest, a solar system can produce enough to cover its cost well within its lifetime.

    If you end up going to a tech session hosted by Toby, just ask in advance and see what he has. There's plenty of power in his shop, so he might have a 14-30 or similar outlet around there. You might need a 14-30 extension cord though. I still have one from back in the "dark ages" of limited public charging. Thankfully I haven't needed it in about 8 years now, but it still sits in my trunk just incase.
    Thanks for that data. I've always wondered what solar would save. From my last electric bill my cost per KWH is $.155 so your 3 MWh would save me $467. That is assuming I can use all that power and not sell it back at reduced rates.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #145
    Senior Member mhanch's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Location:  Renton, WA

    Posts:    122

    My VIN:    10332

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    At home, we'll always be limited by the built in charger from the Bolt, which is 240v @ 32A, or 7.6kW. With the Bolt's battery, that means about 8 hours to go from 0 to 100%. It has 50kW DC fast charging abilities, which will do a full charge in about an hour, but that is going to take a lot of work for me to get working in the conversion. It requires the AC system.

    Where we are in central WA, we actually get a good amount of sun. About 20% more than Seattle, which is only 90 minutes away. I would like to do a minimum of 10kW of solar, targeting 20kW if we can fit it.

    I should be able to drive the car from here to Seattle for Pacific Northwest DeLorean meetups by the end of the summer - so long as I can secure a level 2 charger in the area for a few hours. I really want to bring it over to my office in Redmond, and we luckily have a charger on site.
    Will the car have any regen? that will help. But there's charging in Snoqualmie, North Bend, and all over the area if you need it.

  6. #146
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    190

    My VIN:    5510

    Quote Originally Posted by mhanch View Post
    Will the car have any regen? that will help. But there's charging in Snoqualmie, North Bend, and all over the area if you need it.
    Yes, it already does!

    Most of the chargers around here are DCFC using CCS, which my car will not support for at least a year. Some stations do have a Level 2 J1772 port, which I'll be able to use, but speed will be an issue. I'll be limited to 7kW of charging.

  7. #147
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    190

    My VIN:    5510



    New video! This one goes back a couple of months before first drive and covers getting the high voltage system plugged in, and debugging issues with the 12v system.

  8. #148
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,235

    Video is good, but I don?t like seeing it after the driving video. Order matters!

    Carry on.

  9. #149
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    190

    My VIN:    5510

    Not a ton to report - but the DC-DC converter and AC charger are now both permanently mounted in the car (and plugged in). I've done some initial routing of coolant lines for the electronics loop, and just got in some new components for that. The overflow tank and pump are both mounted, so just the tubing is left. I decided to go with some very nice quality silicone heater hose that turned out more expensive than I expected - but I'd rather get the good stuff that I know will last. For now I don't think I'm going to include the front radiator in the loop, but having the coolant as a heat buffer should be fine with the temps near freezing.

    The shifter is now mounted using the metal plate, so it's nice and secure and feels much better than being held on with zip ties. The manual service disconnect (high voltage disconnect) is located in the position I want it, and I need to fabricate a couple of mount points to call it 'done'.

    Purchases
    • Cable glands assortment (1/4"-1") and ring terminals - Amazon - $56
    • FlexFab 3/4" x 50' silicone heater hose, 5/8" x 10', 5/8" - 3/4" adapters, and 3/4" couplers - Amazon - $448


    Tools
    • USB wall charger & cords to have a central charging location in the shop
    • Seek CompactPro thermal camera

  10. #150
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    190

    My VIN:    5510

    Continuing on with the coolant loop - I was able to really quickly cut and route the silicone tubing, then fill the loop with DexCool coolant. Somehow I did the whole loop and pressure tested it and didn't have a single leak! I did have to extend the control wires to the pump - but that's a very simple process. With the coolant loop taken care of, I was able to charge the car up to about 40% and leave the DC-DC converter plugged in, and the Bolt happily charged up the 12V battery and the coolant loop kept everything nice and cool.

    Next up was all the external lights. Back when the car had an engine, I had replaced the rear lights with LEDs, but hadn't done anything to the front. So I purchased everything needed to convert the headlights, front turn signals, and side markers to LED! Now at the same time I realized that the DeLorean and Bolt aren't really aligned as far as what wires control what items, so I completely rebuilt the front bumper harness from scratch. I used a Deutsch 12-pin connector in the same spot as the DeLorean's 9-pin one, ran all the wires through the front frame rail, and the end results are simply AWESOME! One slight complication was the turn signal ballast resistors that I needed to install (on both front and rear), but honestly the whole setup is pretty simple. The lights look incredible all the way around! For the rear bumper I bought a new 9-pin connector and wired it from the Bolt's wires to the DeLorean's as best I could - while it isn't quite 1-to-1, it works perfectly. At some point in the future I will rebuild the rear bumper harness in the same way as the front bumper harness, switching to Deutsch connectors and nicer wires. As of now, I have all external lights working - parking lights, low beams, high beams, reverse lights, and turn signals.

    Some minor other items include hooking up the wires to the power steering motor, building mounts for the Manual Service Disconnect and mounting it, and hooking up the GPS and LTE antennas.

    With lights and proper cooling, I did my first drive through town! I have some slight rubbing with the parking brake lines, a little squealing, some rattles... but it drove really REALLY nicely. Significantly faster than when it was gas powered - however my car was having transmission and/or engine issues, so it was like 0-60 in about 30 seconds. It's now about 7 seconds, as best I can tell. I expect to get that down by another second or two once I get the car out of "reduced power mode". I got the car up to 80mph, too!! As always, handling was fantastic, and I got a lot of looks while going through town.

    Most recently, I've been spending a lot of time on the wiring harness. Just as an example... the doors each have a big connector with ~20 wires going to each. But nearly half of those wires are for things that the DeLorean won't need going to the doors. Things like speakers, antennas, and crash sensors. I'm going through each one, making a label for each wire, and then cleaning up the mess of wires in the passenger area. I have my fingers crossed that by July 1st I'll be able to give people rides. Solo trips just aren't as fun!!

    Purchases
    • Black stainless rear screen finisher w/ screws, license plate clips w/ screws, side marker LEDs and sockets, new brake pedal pad - DeLorean GO - $354
    • Chevy Bolt EV tail lamp control module - eBay - $43
    • 600' of 16awg GXL wire in various colors - WireBarn - $92
    • Stainless hose clamps and cable clamps - Amazon - $71
    • H4 LED Conversion Lamps, H4 wiring sockets, LED headlight bulbs, LED turn signals bulbs - Amazon - $185
    • Thermal adhesive tape, heat shrink butt connectors, heat shrink spade connectors - Amazon - $58


    Tools
    • Ryobi compact brushless impact driver and long magnetic screwdriver bits
    • IGAN-P6 flush wire cutters
    • Elgato Green Screen XL

Page 15 of 15 FirstFirst ... 5 13 14 15

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •