Anyone got a good Door Lock Procedure
Could be both doors?
Finally have the time after years of not throwing both locks and getting stuck
Wiper arms appear to be making contact?
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Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Anyone got a good Door Lock Procedure
Could be both doors?
Finally have the time after years of not throwing both locks and getting stuck
Wiper arms appear to be making contact?
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Are you looking to adjust or repair?
For adjustment, here is the associated bulletin: https://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-10-8.81.html
For refurbishment, I see that you have a newer solenoid, but here's my refurb thread if it helps:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...-and-solenoids
Mine have been rock solid since.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,072
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
DeLorean Workshop Manual
P:02:11-12
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Adjustmment
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Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Controller is fine had Dave look at it
Does anyone have pictures describing the rods
Cause I’m Totally confused on which ones to touch!
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Here is a diagram missing from the Service Bulletin above:
DMC Door Lock.jpg
But, the WS Manual procedures work better for me:
DOOR LOCK SETTING PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect proper fuse or negative battery cable.
2. Remove upper and lower interior door trim.
3. Disconnect the rear link and the front lock link from the bellcrank assembly.
4. Pivot the locking bellcrank assembly back and forth. Check that the contact wiper arm on the bellcrank makes effective contact to the electrical contact points at each limit of travel. If not, adjust the position of the door lock solenoid by loosening the solenoid's attaching screws. Re-tighten solenoid attaching screws.
5. Rotate the lock bellcrank to the "UNLOCK" position (solenoid plunger retracted).
6. Pull the front locking link rearward to remove the free play and connect to the bellcrank. Check that the switch's electrical contacts position has not changed (Step 3). If necessary, adjust the bend in the front locking
link to obtain no free play; no pre-load, and a good electrical contact condition.
7. Pull the rear locking link forward to remove any free play. Adjust the rear locking link (if necessary) until it matches the established bellcrank position. Connect the rear locking link to bellcrank.
8. With the door open, manually close both the front and rear door latch assemblies.
9. Move the interior locking control rocker to the lock position and then back to the unlock position. Check both the mechanical and electrical operation of the locking system.
10. With the system in the unlock position and door open, return the latches to the release position.
The Latches:
DMCDoorLatches.jpg
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,570
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
While the procedure in the manual and the bulletin is good, IMHO it is lacking. It assumes the anchor pins have been properly adjusted and both latches achieve "second locking position" simultaneously. That should be done BEFORE trying to do the internal door adjustments. Many times the reason the doors need internal adjustment is because both latches don't get to the second locking position and then you try to lock the door and force it and bend the rods. So check and if necessary adjust the anchor pins first and then go over the internal adjustments. The first time you do it it is a little confusing but after that it gets easier and faster. One adjustment affects the others so you may have to do it multiple times. Also be very careful of all of the sharp edges inside the doors. Very easy to cut yourself badly, the S/S is VERY sharp!
David Teitelbaum
Location: Asheville, N.C
Posts: 188
My VIN: Latest VIN 83
Club(s): (DCF) (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Ok thanks looks like this is exactly what I needed but I believe my anchor pins are off because they don’t grab at the same time
So I should do that 1st
Any chance you got that procedure?
And Yes I’ve cut myself many times but never have been able to get this right through the years
Determined this time with everyone’s help!
Since I’ve got the time off now
Thanks
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Yes, do the anchor pins first.
What I do:
Always shut the door by pushing it down outside at the place even with where the pull strap is inside (not back by the handle, etc).
Mark where the pins are before beginning.
Make sure that the pin heads miss everything in the receiver except the the latch arm using large washers to move them left and right.
While holding the handle in the release position, lower the door to make sure the style lines will align with the body without help. (If not, carefully persuade it until it will ;-)
Push the door down slowly until you hear one side fully latch (2 clicks). Check the alignment on that side.
Adjust up/down accordingly.
Adjust remaining side.
==================
After adjusting the latch release with either procedure, I get a helper to pull down on one latch while I pull on the other. Then adjust the rear link until they both release at the exact same time when pulling the the handle very slowly. (It will be less than one turn.)
Make sure that the lock fuse is pulled or the battery is disconnected while making adjustments.
Don't forget- The locks will not cycle when the latches are not in the closed position and to open them before closing the door.
About bending the rods and jamming up David mentioned- If the latch pin is WAY off and it latches in the 1st position with the door fully shut, it may seem to act normally, i.e., it is when the latch is open or in between the 1st and 2nd position that it jambs or refuses to cooperate. ...just stressing the point to get two clicks, each door. Otherwise, in this case, if someone slams the door and it happens to get to the 2nd latch,you will not be happy...