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Thread: Door alignment

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Posts:    78

    Door alignment

    Ok, before I remove the door in an unprofessional way and cause myself alot of added grief. I have followed a door alignment process in which (short version) you remove the strut loosen the hinges remove the striker pins and then open and close, playing with the hinge bolts until they dont move, then one at a time put striker pins in and adjust. Well I have done this on several occasions, and each time the door closes pretty close to what I would call factory. Open and close seams look relatively uniform. Then I put the strut back in and..... well I wont use the words that come out when I do this. On a couple occasions, it wouldnt even close. I then try to readjust the striker pins and I can get close but still clunk, and catching. I had to walk away and reach out for help, because my temper getting the better of me. Thanks for any help... The next effort might require decaf coffee...

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111

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    @$#%&! Door

    got same problem, passenger door snicks...
    drivers door clunks....maybe we'll both learn something...

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Aug 2018

    Location:  Virginia

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    Neither of my doors close very well. Some day the car will be shipped to one of the DeLorean shops so they can have a go at it.
    DMCF rebuild 2008, Stage II, Eibach

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    My VIN:    3937

    Without knowing anything else about your car other than what you wrote here, this sounds to me like symptoms of a roof box that is separating. With our cars being 39 years old, this kind of repair is going to become more and more common, perhaps even expected.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  5. #5
    Delorean Guru
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    Unless you have a very early car or the door was once removed or the car had an accident, you will not be able to align the door any better than the factory did it. As mentioned there are things to check like the roof box or trying to adjust the anchor pins. The door gets adjusted to the fiberglass tub NOT adjacent panels. Once the doors are set the other panels get adjusted to the doors. To remove a door you MUST remove the torsion bar FIRST! Failure to do that and you will damage the door, possibly beyond repair. Adjusting the hinges also means adding or removing shims. To adjust the door well you need new door seals that aren't flattened or old. The last thing you adjust are the anchor pins. Your goal is to get even pressure on the door seal when the door is closed and good alignment with the "A" pillar. If the hinges are worn or bent you will never get proper alignment.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Since you've moved the hinges already, try:
    Check the box. If OK, align the door to the tub.
    Adjust the torsion bar such that the door hangs open ~6-8".
    Install the strut BEFORE adjusting the pins.
    Always shut the door by pushing down with your hand even with the pull strap.

  7. #7
    Senior Member 81dmc's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  SW Florida

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    My VIN:    831

    Just tweaked my drivers door a little a few days ago to close a huge gap between it and the A pillar. I never adjusted that gap when I installed a new door in 2015.

    Steps I do:

    1.) Remove louvers and T panel.
    2.) Raise door and acquire help to untorque torsion bar. Also remove strut.
    3.) Remove strikers and note door alignment to the A pillar and weather stripping attached to body tub.
    4.) Loosen only one door hinge at a time and move in very small increments to achieve desired door position. You don’t want any part of the door rubbing the weather stripping, unless you want broken seals...

    5.) Once door is aligned to tub, tighten hinges and reinstall torsion bar and strut.
    6.) Install one striker at a time and adjust as each as necessary.
    VIN 831- Delorean.eu Roof Box, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension.
    Other Classic: 1982 Mercedes 300SD TurboDiesel

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Posts:    78

    door alignment

    Thanks to the responses and the support, at least I am not alone. Next attempt will be with decaf. And it sounds like I need to get the outer seals on first, the one suggested sequence talked about removing the outer seals first then doing the adjustment.

  9. #9
    Senior Member 81dmc's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  SW Florida

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    My VIN:    831

    Quote Originally Posted by northeast dmc View Post
    Thanks to the responses and the support, at least I am not alone. Next attempt will be with decaf. And it sounds like I need to get the outer seals on first, the one suggested sequence talked about removing the outer seals first then doing the adjustment.
    No, you need to keep the outer seals off so you can adjust the panels afterwards.


    You need to install the inner door seals.



    When I said “weather stripping” above, I was referring to the inner seals.
    VIN 831- Delorean.eu Roof Box, Double Din, Custom Instrument Cluster, QA1 Suspension.
    Other Classic: 1982 Mercedes 300SD TurboDiesel

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2019

    Posts:    78

    door alignment

    Quote Originally Posted by 81dmc View Post
    No, you need to keep the outer seals off so you can adjust the panels afterwards.


    You need to install the inner door seals.



    When I said “weather stripping” above, I was referring to the inner seals.
    Ok thank you.

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