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Thread: Fuel Pump Woes... no power??

  1. #11
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Location:  Taylors SC

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    Quote Originally Posted by bfloyd View Post
    So, went out to the garage tonight to poke around with a tester.

    On the fuel pump wiring diagram fuse #7 should be HOT all the time. Found a good ground and pulled #7. The fuse itself is good. Took the test probe and found that one side of the fuse terminals is hot with 12.79 volts. That's good. Put the fuse back in and moved on to the RPM relay connector.

    According to the pump circuit wiring diagram the power from Fuse #7 goes directly to pin #30 on the RPM relay connector. Verifying my ground was still good, I took the probe to pin #30 and got nothing. I dont get it?

    Does a wire just randomly break driving down the road at 80mph?

    Got more digging to do.
    Luckily its a pretty short run from the fuse to the RPM relay. Probe both sides of the fuse while plugged in. You may not realize it but you can probe the top of the actual fuse. There is a tiny hole in the plastic above above the fuse terminal. I've seen fuses that look good but aren't.

    On the RPM relay socket jump the Brown wire to the White/Purple. This should make the fuel pump come on, if not, jump the White/Purple to the door lock breaker (as a source of power). If that works, go back and trace from the fuse block to the RPM relay socket brown wire. Failure is most likely at a terminal, not in the middle of the wire somewhere.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  2. #12
    Senior Member bfloyd's Avatar
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    Finally got this figured out. Turns out I was jumping the wrong pins on the RPM relay connector. Once I got the jumper in the right spot I now have 12volts at the pump connector. No ground. Pulled the wires from the inertia switch and touched them together , pump fired right up.
    Looks like I need a new inertia switch. I'll call DMC Midwest in the morning.

    Thanks everyone for your help.
    Barry Floyd
    Lebanon, Tennessee
    VIN 3294 - Aug. 81

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Austin MN

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    Quote Originally Posted by bfloyd View Post
    Finally got this figured out. Turns out I was jumping the wrong pins on the RPM relay connector. Once I got the jumper in the right spot I now have 12volts at the pump connector. No ground. Pulled the wires from the inertia switch and touched them together , pump fired right up.
    Looks like I need a new inertia switch. I'll call DMC Midwest in the morning.

    Thanks everyone for your help.
    PM sent

    Dave B.

  4. #14
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

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    Quote Originally Posted by bfloyd View Post
    Finally got this figured out. Turns out I was jumping the wrong pins on the RPM relay connector. Once I got the jumper in the right spot I now have 12volts at the pump connector. No ground. Pulled the wires from the inertia switch and touched them together , pump fired right up.
    Looks like I need a new inertia switch. I'll call DMC Midwest in the morning.

    Thanks everyone for your help.
    I'm drinking to that. First time I was ever right about a bad part. I've come a long way since thinking the ignition coil was the fuel pump lol

  5. #15
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    That is why I always state to jump the colored wires Brown and white/purple. You don't even need to remember the colors, just jump the larger two wires.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #16
    Member jerrysony's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2015

    Location:  Mexico

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    My VIN:    2607

    Hello every one. I had to tow 2607 because the starter just broke. I replaced the starter and now I´m having a very hard time starting the car. I no longer hear a faint hum or buzz from the front of the car when the key is switched to the run position but not started. When I try to start, the pump is heard, so it´s getting power, I have gas on the carburetor (yes, it´s converted),but still won´t start, or start after a hundred tries. (have a battery charger on hand). If I finally got her started, I have gas on the pedal, rmp, etc. If I turn her off, it´s start all over. The only difference I see, as mentioned, is the fuel pump buzzing when the key is switched to the run position. What could be wrong? Is it possible to be the ignition switch at the steering?

  7. #17
    Senior Member
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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Start with the basics, check for fuel and spark.
    David Teitelbaum

  8. #18
    Member jerrysony's Avatar
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    Location:  Mexico

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    My VIN:    2607

    Already done. There's fuel on the tank, removed and cleaned the 6 sparks. Checked hoses.

    Enviado desde mi SM-G996U1 mediante Tapatalk

  9. #19
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    Unlike K-Jet, a carb system doesn't need to have the pump run to start the engine, if it has ran in the last few days -- There should be plenty of fuel in the carb's bowl to start it (and run a bit). Look down in the carb and see if fuel squirts when you work the throttle. If it does, it's not a lack of fuel problem.
    A timing light should flash while cranking (with any plug wire).

    Did you replace the starter with the exact same type of unit?

  10. #20
    Member jerrysony's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2015

    Location:  Mexico

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    My VIN:    2607

    Thank you Ron. I replaced the starter with the eagle premiere version that's sold on AutoZone. I "feel and ear" that the car is not starting, but when I release the hand of the key, it actually starts (sometimes). I have gas on the carb as I press the pedal.

    Enviado desde mi SM-G996U1 mediante Tapatalk

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