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Thread: Outer Door Seal installation

  1. #1
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    Outer Door Seal installation

    Just looking for a lil input on the best way to tackle the outer door seal..

    Should I tack down the main bead first, then go back and cut out the bits I need to cut and then tack down the wide part? Or should I put all the adhesive down all at once?

    Thanks
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lwanmtr View Post
    Just looking for a lil input on the best way to tackle the outer door seal..

    Should I tack down the main bead first, then go back and cut out the bits I need to cut and then tack down the wide part? Or should I put all the adhesive down all at once?

    Thanks
    I did my outer seals recently. I just did a small section at a time, maybe 6-8 inches. I used 3m black weatherstrip adhesive. As long as you take your time and wait for each section to dry a little before you move on youíll be ok. The outer seal is mostly for cosmetic and wind noise purposes, so donít fret if you make a small mistake here and there. BTW, you may notice that your door will require more force to close and/or not close correctly due to the new seal. I had to trim some of the bulb off in order to alleviate that.
    DMCF rebuild 2008, Stage II, Eibach

  3. #3
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    +1 on trying to do short sections at a time. When you try and get the entire length of the seal on all at once, you tend to end up with some tension in spots and that lack of slack will keep trying to pull it away. I would start at one end, do a straight length (before the first bend), let it dry sufficiently and then move on. Gently fold over the undone end while you work so you take the weight off the portion you're doing. Just lay the excess on the windshield, or tee-panel, or headrest.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #4
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Another hint - you can use that 3M weather strip adhesive as a contact cement. In other words, apply to both surfaces (the metal and the rubber strip), allow to air dry for a few minutes (it will skin over but not be completely dried), and then apply the weather strip to the car. It will adhere and stay stuck right away. This is good and bad as there really isn't any ability to reposition it if you "miss", but you don't have to tape it in place or wait for it to stay stuck until you move on.

    So be very cautious if you do it this way. But it is a lot faster.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    dswingle@DeLorean.com

  5. #5
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
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    That's how we do it.

    But first, with any seal that is long or makes a lot of twist or turns, position it using blue tape (will not rip the rubber when removed). Then cut the tape with an x-acto knife, apply glue to both surfaces, reposition it, aligning the tape back up. Remove immediately, wait until tacky, and reposition again aligning the tape.
    As Dave said, you can not move it again.
    Don't run it too close to the outside, else the seal will bulge out when you shut the door...
    Have some lacquer thinner and rags handy -- It gets very hard to remove, quickly.

  6. #6
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    If you use the clear stuff any "extra" isn't so noticeable. Use a piece of tubing at the joint and position the joint near the door switches. If your old seals were really bad you may have to adjust the anchor pins. Before doing that leave the doors closed for a day or so for the seals to get a set. You might realize you don't need to adjust the pins.
    David Teitelbaum

  7. #7
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave View Post
    Another hint - you can use that 3M weather strip adhesive as a contact cement. In other words, apply to both surfaces (the metal and the rubber strip), allow to air dry for a few minutes (it will skin over but not be completely dried), and then apply the weather strip to the car. It will adhere and stay stuck right away. This is good and bad as there really isn't any ability to reposition it if you "miss", but you don't have to tape it in place or wait for it to stay stuck until you move on.

    So be very cautious if you do it this way. But it is a lot faster.
    Also note that 3M and most adhesives will NOT work with the DeLoreanGo silicone seals. Nothing seems to stick to them. I tossed mine and ordered peel and stick seals from McMaster instead. Way easier and thicker, too.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880
    Modifications done to my car can be seen in this video: https://youtu.be/ncMjW2pI2e4

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the tips. Helpful in getting my head around going on it.

    Is it easier to start at the bottom near the door sill or top past the torsion bar?

    I have the 3m black adhesive, and got my seals from Toby at DMCNW, so they shouldnt have adhesive issues like the delorean go ones.

    Actually was thinking of taping one in place and figuring out where I need to have them so they arent too far to the outside.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Website
    YouTube
    My Patreon

  9. #9
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    The reason for picking a spot to start with is cosmetic, where are you most likely not to see the very beginning and end joining together, there will be a very small gap. I would pick the bottom towards the front, you won't look there and if it is noticed it looks like it was supposed to be there.

  10. #10
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    Talking about the outer door seals.
    Rob Depew
    Tacoma, Wa
    '81 DeLorean 4877 Grey, Auto, 4 wheels
    The Ressurection of 4877......
    Website
    YouTube
    My Patreon

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