I brought Ron Westers Gullwing Magazine with
the installing seat cover article to a local auto shop.
They said it really helped....
Location: Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111
Posts: 886
My VIN: 2691
I brought Ron Westers Gullwing Magazine with
the installing seat cover article to a local auto shop.
They said it really helped....
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
Thanks. With your idea I filed and sanding the end of my 16 AWG copper wire round and put a coat of car wax on the wire. I was able to install the wire even at the curved section. The sides do require more pull so I don't think doing it without any welting would not be good. I bet stainless wire probably 16 AWG size would be even stronger.Originally Posted by Ron
I also used a scalpel to cut away a little of the foam at the bottom so that corner piece would fit better. It worked very well on the side without the adjuster knob. Will have to see how well it works on that side.
Think I will run down to tractor supply and see if they have any stainless wire.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 08-30-2020 at 01:47 PM.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
Went to Tractor supply and they did not have stainless but they did have galvanized steel fence wire in 17 or 14 gauge. I bought a roll of 14 gauge and will try that next chance I get. You really don't need stainless unless you get caught in a flood.
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,176
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
lol...that will work.
FWIW, I wouldn't use copper...It doesn't like vibration.
Just in case- For long/tight curved runs, you can pinch the wire a few inches behind the bead and push the fabric past it. Then pinch the bead and work the slack on down.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
The wire did slid in easy in the strait area. Now getting to run past bends is very tricky since it's so hard to bend. I think the fact it does not bend is why it slides in easy. I did sand the end but did not use any wax.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
Well I don't know how others had done it but getting the bottom of the seat back cover to overlap with the lower flap looks impossible. The seat tilt mechanics just don't let that flap sit where it should. I'm down to trying one last thing and that is to cut the foam almost all out where the flap lays.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
Here is a photo of the completed back L-seat cover with the original lower seat skin. That problem I was having with the lower corner I cut most of the foam under the corner away but I still may need to sew the flap to the rest of the skin. Right now the pressure of the foam is holding it in place.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
I pulled the bottom old skin off. I assume I slip the old steel bars into the new skin but what do you use to make the six attachments that were plastic "pins" and push on washer clips. Not sure if the old washer clips will hold since a little damage when pulled off.
pulling these hog rings was easy. I used some heavy wire cutters to grab them and give a slight twist then the rings would just slip out.
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 694
My VIN: 1710
It's been 10+ years since I did this job... but I believe we used zip ties and metal washers to replace those plastic washer clips on the seat bottoms. See post #21 in this thread to see what I'm talking about:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?98...l=1#post208177
Louie Golden
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,004
My VIN: 03572
That is a great idea. Thanks.
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