Won't start, no spark

[r00b]

I was finishing up installing a new frame. I got the engine in and all connected up, it crankes fine, it just won't start. Everything I check seems fine, other than not getting any spark. I did a tune up before starting the frame off, installed new spark plugs, new plug wires, new rotor and cap. The engin ran fine, I then took it to be smogged and it passed. Now, I pull a spark plug, lay it on the engine block while connected to the plug wire and have some one crank the engine, no spark. Holding the wire without the plug close to the engine, no spark.

At this point I suspect the computers. When I first got to the point of being able to start the engine, I forgot to connect the ground cable so I was getting some weird problems. When trying to start the car I'd hear the starter solenoid click and then the car would loose all power. That happened several times, another time I tried to start it and the starter solenoid stared flutter on and off. Once I figured out that the ground cable wasn't bolted on those problems stopped. Could that have damaged the computers? How can I test them?

Also the car was outside while I did the work. Some rain got passed the air meter. I got most of it out, but later the fuel injectors looked bad so I replaced them.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Make sure your white bulkhead connectors are not swapped. If your tach moves when cranking the ignition ECU is probably good.

[r00b]

Yes the tach moves when cranking.

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[DMC-Ron]

Check your ignition resistors to make sure the connections are good. One of the resistors should get bypassed with the resistor relay when the engine is cranking to provide a stronger spark. Verify your getting power from the aux relay to the resistors and on to the coil.

Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

Check your ignition resistors to make sure the connections are good. One of the resistors should get bypassed with the resistor relay when the engine is cranking to provide a stronger spark. Verify your getting power from the aux relay to the resistors and on to the coil.

Ron

I think if the tach moves when cranking, the coil has to be getting fired so resistors feeding the primary must be connected. I know the RPM relay and idle ECU use the inductive spikes from the firing ignition coil to work. So I assume the tach uses the same AC coupled high voltage circuit.

So if what I think is true (your getting primary inductive spikes) then if you get no spark at the plugs, your coil secondary may not be working, the high voltage leads may be bad or the problem is in the ignition distributor.

[dmc4087]

I missed the connector from the distributor to the ignition ecu when doing my frame-off, incase you have overlooked that.

[r00b]

I have two OEM coils both test almost exactly the same so I didn't think it would be the coil, but I have had both headlights go out at the same time before so I thought I'll just try a new one. None of the local parts stores had the coil in stock, napa had one made by echlin, so I got that. I primed the engine a few times and then I cranked it, it fired for a just a moment and died, I tried it again with the same result. After that it would just crank like before. I'm charging the battery now.

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[r00b]

I missed the connector from the distributor to the ignition ecu when doing my frame-off, incase you have overlooked that.

Yes, I missed that one too. I figured it out early on since the tach wasn't moving then.

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[r00b]

It started, so the big question I have is why wouldn't it start with the old coils. I can't believe they both would have just gone bad.

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[Ron]

Put one of the other ones back on....