Changing the crankshaft pulley - looking for guidance

[DMC-81]

Hey Dana,

Do you recall what torque value you used on the three mounting bolts for the starter? I don't see it listed in the manual. I have the starter reinstalled, but haven't torqued down the bolts yet. Thanks.

Hi Jonathan, I used 21 ft/lbs. (Source M:02:04 )
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[Ron]

Hi Jonathan, I used 21 ft/lbs. (Source M:02:04 )
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I see "Locked Torque": 28 Nm (20.6 ft./lb.)", but that is the torque the starter develops starting at zero speed??

I don't know the DMC spec, but Chrysler calls out 27 Ft. Lbs. (50 N.m) for Paris-Rhone starters.

[DMC-81]

I see "Locked Torque": 28 Nm (20.6 ft./lb.)", but that is the torque the starter develops starting at zero speed??

I don't know the DMC spec, but Chrysler calls out 27 Ft. Lbs. (50 N.m) for Paris-Rhone starters.

I'll defer to Ron's advice.

[Jonathan]

I see "Locked Torque": 28 Nm (20.6 ft./lb.)", but that is the torque the starter develops starting at zero speed??

I don't know the DMC spec, but Chrysler calls out 27 Ft. Lbs. (50 N.m) for Paris-Rhone starters.

I'll defer to Ron's advice.

Thank you both. I had wondered about that reference in the manual and whether it meant it was the torque the starter generated and not the mounting bolt torque. All good. I'll go with the 27 ft lb as Ron noted from the Chrysler manual.

Dana... Ron posted that at 7:08 pm. How long did it take you to go out to the garage and retorque your starter?

[DMC-81]

Thank you both. I had wondered about that reference in the manual and whether it meant it was the torque the starter generated and not the mounting bolt torque. All good. I'll go with the 27 ft lb as Ron noted from the Chrysler manual.

Dana... Ron posted that at 7:08 pm. How long did it take you to go out to the garage and retorque your starter?

You're welcome. Lol. I haven't yet.

Due to the inherent vibration on the starter, I applied blue loctite. Considering the lubrication of the threadlocker, I probably applied closer to Ron's spec anyway. So far so good after this many years.

[Jonathan]

I'm pretty much done with installing the new replacement parts I had to do and ready to put things back together. I was hoping to get some clarification on something though as it pertains to the starter heatshield and the positive battery cable connections right below it.

I got the crankshaft pulley and new nut on and torqued. Got the starter put back on that I had removed to torque that nut. I replaced my alternator with a new one and put new battery cables in (positive and negative right to the battery compartment plus the jump start cable that stays in the engine bay).

I have also had a new (design as well as just new condition because the originals were made of asbestos) starter heatshield sitting in a box and I got that installed too. I never had any known issues with my starter getting heat damage from the exhaust manifold above it, I just realized one day my heatshield was missing so looked at getting one.

My concern is how close the bottom side of that heatshield is to the tip of the battery cables that all attach on that same lug on the starter. I'm not concerned because they might rub and wear down or anything. My concern is because that new heatshield is all metal and since it is directly attached to the engine block, this to me would be a direct short circuit from positive side of the battery to the negative side with no fusing whatsoever in between.

Would it do this short circuiting if that positive lead were to move slightly and come into contact with the bottom of the heatshield?

That (new) red rubber boot on the end of the longer positive cable is a bizarre design as to me there is no way to get both positive cables into it AND have the ends of those cables fitting over the lug and tightened down. So that rubber boot covers one cable but not the other.

Am I right to be worried about this? What's the solution here?

I can take the heatshield out if need be. I never had one before anyway and it can just as easily go back into a box. Thanks!

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[DMCMW Dave]

My concern is how close the bottom side of that heatshield is to the tip of the battery cables that all attach on that same lug on the starter. I'm not concerned because they might rub and wear down or anything. My concern is because that new heatshield is all metal and since it is directly attached to the engine block, this to me would be a direct short circuit from positive side of the battery to the negative side with no fusing whatsoever in between.

Would it do this short circuiting if that positive lead were to move slightly and come into contact with the bottom of the heatshield?

Yes, Bad Things would happen.

That (new) red rubber boot on the end of the longer positive cable is a bizarre design as to me there is no way to get both positive cables into it AND have the ends of those cables fitting over the lug and tightened down. So that rubber boot covers one cable but not the other.

It can be done.

Am I right to be worried about this?

Yes

What's the solution here?

Put it together correctly. You are correct, it's a pain in the neck.

I can take the heatshield out if need be. I never had one before anyway and it can just as easily go back into a box. Thanks!

Removing the heat shield is second best but it is possible to put the wiring all into the rubber cover.

[Jonathan]

...It can be done.

Thanks a lot, Dave.

I took it off for the time being. I happened to also buy a new boot separately and may try and wrap my head around how it is supposed to go sitting comfortably in a chair using my old cables. And then try again to get it right while back underneath the car.

While I don't miss all the early things that were wrong or broken on my car... and I'm sure you're enjoying retirement more than working... I sure do miss working with you. Figuring things out and chatting about stuff. Julee too. Hope SC is treating both of you well

[Jonathan]

Got it all back together and she fired right up. Well, not quite right away, but after a few tries. I tried to start it and it would whoomph and go and then immediately die. It did this 3-4 times in a row. I stopped that for the moment and had a look. Nothing out of place and rechecked all the electrical connections in the bulkhead area and on the alternator and starter. I thought maybe electrical even though it almost felt like it stopped because there was no where for the exhaust to go. Or getting air in.

I gave the gas pedal a few pushes and then when I tried again it started and idled a little rough but then settled out. If it was an air restriction, it might have been because of me leaning my elbows on the air filter housing and perhaps impeding the free movement of the air plate underneath. I know I did this once before when I didn't have the thing perfectly centred.

Anyway, good to go there... but...

Two things concern me still:

1... is the exhaust clamp where the catalytic converter meets the muffler. After warming up for a few minutes, I am getting white "smoke" coming up from that spot. I say smoke, even though it isn't anything burning as best I can tell and it doesn't have much of an odour. I mean it does smell of course, it just isn't overpowering. I assume it is exhaust anyway, but hard to tell trying to stick your head down there while the engine is running lol.

So is there a trick to getting that clamp to seal? I bought a brand new SS and pretty one and put it on in what I think is the same location as it was. I can't really tell how far into the female end of the cat pipe the male end of the muffler piece goes. Those slits down the tip of the cat end could be the source of the leak I guess... but I'm not sure really. Is there some standard way these are supposed to be connected and clamped that I'm not realizing?

I did use some Krown spray (PB Blaster equivalent) on that old clamp and so I guess it could be that excess burning off, but that's not necessarily it. I'd just like some ideas or comments from those that have done their own exhaust before.

Oh, and the second thing that concerns me is my brand new crankshaft pulley I swear does not rotate perfectly straight. When the engine is running and idling and you stand there looking from the side, it sure looks like there is some small amount of movement. There's nothing to notice looking at the centre where the nut is, but out towards the edges, it seems like it's moving in addition to rotating.

I can see about taking a short video and posting here if that sounds weird. I can't imagine I bent the crankshaft or anything like that, but maybe the new pulley went on with just the slightest of off centreness. I used my hands and eyes to push it on with a little bit of gear oil on the surface, but not any kind of exacting tool. I hadn't thought to use one or even look to see if that was required.

Again, just hoping for some insight from those that know. Thanks!!

[Jonathan]

Does this look like a straight exhaust leak at the clamp between the catalytic convertor and the muffler? Or does it look like some PB Blaster burning off of the outside of the pipe because I sprayed it there earlier when taking things apart?

It doesn't do this immediately. The car needs to warm up a little first, like say in upwards of 4-5 minutes worth. I've done this warm-up and see smoke about 3 times now and it's the same thing each time. Clamp is quite tight at the moment. I didn't do anything special to prepare those two exhaust pipe ends prior to putting them back together.

The clamp is a new SS one from DeLoGO and my next move is to remove it completely and compare it to my old rusty one to see if it's not the right shape or size.