FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: My ac is working!!!

  1. #1
    Senior Member Lenny's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    700

    My VIN:    6654

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    My ac is working!!!

    MY AC IS WORKING!!!.
    Thanks to Robert Gadocha and Tony Ierardi from DeLorean Florida, my AC is working again and it is COLD! Here is what I was told to do. I still have the factory original AC, I haven't upgraded and have been dreading spending the money to do it. This was a lifesaver.

    1. After pulling a vacuum on your A/C system and making sure that there are no leaks within the system
    2. You will need to charge your system first with one can of RedTek LeakStop
    3. Then one can of RedTek ProSeal,
    4. Then a little over one and half cans of the RedTek Refrigerant.

    I took it to a mechanic who followed Robert Gadocha's instructions. He was impressed because my system held a vacuum for 30 minutes.

    I got the Refrigerant and Leak stop from Walmart.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/REDTEK-A-...Stop/774412072


    I got the RedTek Pro Seal on Amazon.
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    RedTek.jpg
    ProSeal.jpg
    Last edited by Lenny; 10-15-2020 at 08:48 PM.
    Thanks,
    Lenny

    DMCH New Build in 2005, Stage II, DPI Stainless Exhaust, Eibach Suspension, 170 Mph Speedometer, Xenon Lights, Wings-A-Loft, DMC Wide Angle Side Mirrors, 3rd Brake Light

  2. #2
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,789

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Getting it to work is one thing, keeping it working is another. Before you get too excited lets see how it is in 6 months. I have had good results with the newer leak sealer kits though. They can fix small leaks.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
    Senior Member Lenny's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    700

    My VIN:    6654

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    A couple of points.
    1. It has been a couple of years since I put any R12 in it.
    2. It held vacuum for 30 minutes.
    3. R12 is really hard to find and expensive when you do.
    4. This is a plug and play for our original AC units.
    5. So far I don't have to convert my unit.

    Lastly if it lasts a couple of years and I can put another can of RedTek in it I'm money ahead.
    Thanks,
    Lenny

    DMCH New Build in 2005, Stage II, DPI Stainless Exhaust, Eibach Suspension, 170 Mph Speedometer, Xenon Lights, Wings-A-Loft, DMC Wide Angle Side Mirrors, 3rd Brake Light

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2012

    Location:  Bay Area, CA

    Posts:    246

    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny View Post
    A couple of points.
    1. It has been a couple of years since I put any R12 in it.
    2. It held vacuum for 30 minutes.
    3. R12 is really hard to find and expensive when you do.
    4. This is a plug and play for our original AC units.
    5. So far I don't have to convert my unit.

    Lastly if it lasts a couple of years and I can put another can of RedTek in it I'm money ahead.
    Not that Iím saying that RedTek is the wrong choice, it may be the best option for you.
    However I donít agree you with the R12 is expensive or hard to find. I am still using R12 and my AC is running amazingly well. Take a look at Craigslist or eBay and you will be surprised how much R12 is out there. Itís affordable and easy to find.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,789

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    I agree, R-12 is still the best choice for a refrigerant but using a sealer is a good idea too. As far as testing goes, pulling a vacuum and watching it for 30 minutes is not really a good test. It is only minus 15 psi. If you do have a leak it only draws in contaminants, won't tell you where the leak is, and can't tell you if you have a very small leak. The way to test is to fill with 150 psi Nitrogen and watch the pressure and if it drops then you look for the leak with leak detector (soapy water).
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    7,986

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    I agree, R-12 is still the best choice for a refrigerant but using a sealer is a good idea too. As far as testing goes, pulling a vacuum and watching it for 30 minutes is not really a good test. It is only minus 15 psi. If you do have a leak it only draws in contaminants, won't tell you where the leak is, and can't tell you if you have a very small leak. The way to test is to fill with 150 psi Nitrogen and watch the pressure and if it drops then you look for the leak with leak detector (soapy water).
    Leak testing with Nitrogen is usually done at much higher pressures. 300 to 400 PSI is not exceeding the burst of hose and components. I think the high pressure switch is set to 450 PSI. With the higher pressure you can see much quicker a pressure drop indicating a leak and finding the leaks with is much quicker.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  7. #7
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,789

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    On automotive systems, especially with rubber hoses, and even more especially with OLD rubber hoses, 150 psi is enough. On commercial systems with brazed connections and no rubber hoses you can go to 500 psi. For safety purposes, 150 is more than enough to find leaks.
    David Teitelbaum

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •