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View Poll Results: Should I go vented or stock?

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  • Stock, Replace Rotors

    2 25.00%
  • Vented Rotors

    6 75.00%
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Thread: Vented Front Brakes + Sway Bar Bushings

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2014

    Posts:    20

    Vented Front Brakes + Sway Bar Bushings

    So, I sadly wore through my front right brake pad recently. Unfortunately, I was an hour away from home when I realized it. By the time I got back I had gouged the rotor pretty badly (Fortunately, I was driving very cautiously, so was still able to avoid the deer who decided to jump in front of me on the drive back - calling it a win).

    Anyways, it's on me for not checking the status of the brake pad, but also came as a bit of a surprise since I'm at most ~15k miles or less since they were last done. The rotors are stock.

    I checked the front right pad/rotor which is toast, but I haven't checked the left one yet. Will update once I've checked it out.

    The main thing I'm trying to decide is whether I should:
    1) Buy replacement rotors + pads, break down and clean the stock front calipers
    2) Go to vented rotors with a spacer kit on the stock front calipers after rebuild (Delorean Go) - I don't really like this option
    3) Go to vended rotors with the new caliper set (Delorean Go)

    For reference, this is VIN 1659, 3 spd automatic, twin island turbo (done in mid 80s), but otherwise is largely stock. It's been in my family since purchased used in the mid 80s. I will probably be selling in the next couple years.

    Total miles on the odometer: 17K
    Brakes "serviced" @ 15K - in this case I'm trying to figure out what the service was by my mechanic. The brake master was replaced, but I don't know when the pads were done. Rotors are stock. I'll update once I get a chance to talk to him.

    For one, I'm trying to decided between vented rotors and not. I like the idea of vented rotors, especially since I think they pair well with the stage 2 turbo system. Still, not sure if other folks would prefer to see it stock.

    Anything else I should consider while I'm at it?

    Also, while I'm building up my fall project list, I've seen recommendations for upgrading the sway bar bushings from stock with something like https://www.delorean-parts.com/produ...bar-combo-kit/

  2. #2
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    7,795

    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    Unless you are really driving hard, the stock unvenitlated rotors are OK. If you are planning on selling the car you won't get your investment in the brakes back. Have a shop measure the rotor, maybe it can be saved by resurfacing. If not, replace it. As for the calipers, you should not have to do anything to them except replace the pads unless they are leaking. Maybe flush the brakes with fresh fluid too.
    David Teitelbaum

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2014

    Posts:    20

    Just checked out the left brake and pads look almost new. There is gunk around the bleeder valve.
    20201021_220116.jpg

  4. #4
    Delorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

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    My VIN:    10757

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    The right side is worn out and the left side is like new!!!!?????? Make sure the left side is not stuck. Was the car "pulling" to the right? You must change the pads in sets so you have to replace the pads on the left side anyway, even if they are not worn. That way both sides have exactly the same pads.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2014

    Posts:    20

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    The right side is worn out and the left side is like new!!!!?????? Make sure the left side is not stuck. Was the car "pulling" to the right? You must change the pads in sets so you have to replace the pads on the left side anyway, even if they are not worn. That way both sides have exactly the same pads.
    Yeah, as you can see in the photo above there's still a lot of life left in there, whereas the right pads are down to the back-plate. That was my concern when I realized those pads wore down so quickly and hence figured I might have to tear down or replace the calipers. For sure I will replace both sets of pads.

    I figure it's either the right brake has been stuck "engaged" or the left brake has been stuck "disengaged". I did press the brake pedal and feel the left brake clamp, so I know it's doing something.

    I've been wondering the same thing about the car pulling right when I brake and I think it did a bit, but the stopping power was always okay so I never thought that much of it.

    I checked with the mechanic and he confirmed he did not replace the pads, but inspected them, took them out and greased everything 2K miles ago. He did replace the brake master and front brake lines. He didn't do a full caliper teardown.

  6. #6
    Daily Driver ssdelorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  NW Ohio

    Posts:    314

    My VIN:    16506

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    Unless you are really driving hard, the stock unvenitlated rotors are OK. If you are planning on selling the car you won't get your investment in the brakes back. Have a shop measure the rotor, maybe it can be saved by resurfacing. If not, replace it. As for the calipers, you should not have to do anything to them except replace the pads unless they are leaking. Maybe flush the brakes with fresh fluid too.
    I agree with the Guru here. Stock rotors are just fine for non-racecar drivers (or if you don't need cool looking vented rotors).

    I have over 233,000 miles (need to update my sig) on my car and have the original rotors. I had them turned just once. Pads replaced twice.

    As mentioned by Dave and your other post, it sounds like something is sticking. Get that sorted out and everything should be just fine.
    Shannon Y
    www.ohiodeloreans.com
    www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
    ---
    1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) -- original
    2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) -- original from donor
    3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) -- DMCH
    4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) -- DMCH
    5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) -- DMCH
    6th angle drive - OVER 96,704 miles and counting (OVER 10 yr 10 months & counting) -- new Martin Gutkowski unit
    over 228K miles

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2014

    Posts:    20

    Quote Originally Posted by ssdelorean View Post
    As mentioned by Dave and your other post, it sounds like something is sticking. Get that sorted out and everything should be just fine.
    As you suspected, one of the caliper pistons on the right side was totally stuck. I took the caliper off and broke it down - it was quite a mess.

    Actually to pry the jammed piston out I had to soak the back side of the of piston in hot water and leave an ice-cube in the piston. The difference in temperature was enough I could get the stuck piston out. Still, this was the result:

    20201025_134352.jpg

    The pistons have to be replaced. I'm also not so confident that the rotor can be saved, as the grooves are pretty deep. All that being said, I'm looking at replacing all 4x caliper pistons ($100) + fittings (2x rebuild kit $25), cleaning and restoring the calipers (which also should be plated or painted), turning the rotors ($50 if they can be saved, $200 if not). It all ends up pretty close to the cost of a new, upgraded caliper system ($475 at Delorean Go with the rotors). I guess it depends on whether I can save the rotors, but all being said I'm leaning towards upgrading the brakes anyways since the price delta looks like $0 - $200.

    I'm getting a set of digital calipers to measure the rotors tomorrow.

    I've read elsewhere that the wheel bearings will need to be replaced since they are stock. Can anyone confirm that?

    Is there anything else I should be replacing while I'm in here? The brake hoses and master cylinder have already been replaced.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    Quote Originally Posted by kdumont View Post
    I've read elsewhere that the wheel bearings will need to be replaced since they are stock. Can anyone confirm that?.
    If you pull the front hubs odds are the bearing seal beaks. The problem is the bearing freezes to the spindle.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  9. #9
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

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    now that they are easily available, it is stupid to run solid front rotors.
    It is ridiculous that the front rotors were solid to start off with.

    5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd 343whp/346ft-lbs
    Getting it back on the road!
    LS Swap

  10. #10
    Senior Member Grover's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  New Jersey

    Posts:    293

    My VIN:    1494

    Club(s):   (DMA)

    For your last question on anything else for replacement, for the front brake pads with the vented rotors up front I used EBC Green Stuff pads, which is what was recommended from Martin at DMC UK when he came out with one of the first front vented rotor kits.


    Quote Originally Posted by kdumont View Post
    As you suspected, one of the caliper pistons on the right side was totally stuck. I took the caliper off and broke it down - it was quite a mess.

    Actually to pry the jammed piston out I had to soak the back side of the of piston in hot water and leave an ice-cube in the piston. The difference in temperature was enough I could get the stuck piston out. Still, this was the result:

    20201025_134352.jpg

    The pistons have to be replaced. I'm also not so confident that the rotor can be saved, as the grooves are pretty deep. All that being said, I'm looking at replacing all 4x caliper pistons ($100) + fittings (2x rebuild kit $25), cleaning and restoring the calipers (which also should be plated or painted), turning the rotors ($50 if they can be saved, $200 if not). It all ends up pretty close to the cost of a new, upgraded caliper system ($475 at Delorean Go with the rotors). I guess it depends on whether I can save the rotors, but all being said I'm leaning towards upgrading the brakes anyways since the price delta looks like $0 - $200.

    I'm getting a set of digital calipers to measure the rotors tomorrow.

    I've read elsewhere that the wheel bearings will need to be replaced since they are stock. Can anyone confirm that?

    Is there anything else I should be replacing while I'm in here? The brake hoses and master cylinder have already been replaced.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Steve Cosgrove, Vin. 1494
    "I'm Kicking Through The Walls In My Mind..." - Goo Goo Dolls
    On-going Engine and Car Modifications: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?50...Engine-Upgrade

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