Install driver side rail, intake manifold loose, passenger side rail, injector harness/orientate injectors, torque manifold, tighten rail securing brackets and lock nuts. Manifold will not fit on last.
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,592
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Install driver side rail, intake manifold loose, passenger side rail, injector harness/orientate injectors, torque manifold, tighten rail securing brackets and lock nuts. Manifold will not fit on last.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
If you're open to whittling: Grinding the edges of the manifold a bit by the intake ports allows you to Tetris the manifold into position with the rails secured. Clean down the O-ring witness marks on the intake and make a fresh set of marks so you don't grind too much.
The distributor cap is usually a major hang-up point and this capless setup should require a little less clearancing.
If you take the time to do it right, you can join the carb guys during a hearty laugh session about ease of valley access compared to K-jetters.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Yeah I messaged him offline. He's got it. Doing well
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My Build
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...-s-20-year-nap
I never bothered to clearance the intake. That's a good tech tip. Because of the danner sensor cables clearance on the distributor is still tight .
My You Tube Channel
https://youtube.com/@timelesssteelga...fOpBaYJDtDlkQx
My Build
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...-s-20-year-nap
Just a quick word to say thanks to all those that are happy to share their knowledge, I really appreciate it!
I wonder in Jimmy already did some whittling on the manifold, I gave it a try with the rails on and it dropped right in. I’m sure having a chunk of the distributer missing is also helpful. Speaking of the distributor, if my engine is at TDC, where do I line up the 36-1 wheel?
From what I am reading looks like it should be 90 degrees engine rotation prior to the missing tooth. Since this is cam driven, need to cut that in half so 45 degrees. Thinking 4.5 teeth. But open to what others have done.
Attachment 64871
Off topic, picked up a 91 EP 3.0 today, some one on this forum inferred everyone should have one. So trying to fit in, i rescued one that has been waiting 13 years to live the dream of living in a Delorean instead of an EP.
2 hour drive and a couple of hours to disassemble.
So lost a part of my last post when site logs me off. Any suggestions for keeping a session alive longer, using an IPad?
So a couple of hours to disassemble. Block, pistons, liners and heads all look great. Camshafts are toast.
Want to rebuild this and be ready for a visit from the block rot fairy... Any suggestions on where to purchase rebuild parts, and any suggestions on what others have done to prepare it for the Delorean life.
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Also funny thing, all the exhaust gaskets where installed backwards blocking about 1/3 of the exhaust port. Must have been a bit of a slug at higher rpms.
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"Please excuse the crudity of this model as I didn't have time to build it to scale or paint it" -Doc Brown
My You Tube Channel
https://youtube.com/@timelesssteelga...fOpBaYJDtDlkQx
My Build
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...-s-20-year-nap
Repeat after me:
It’s going to be OK.
It’s going to be OK.
It’s going to be OK.
...
...
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Sharing a quick update.
Dist and coils mounted
Fuel injectors, rails, fuel lines, and regulator installed
Manifold installed and throttle cable relocated
Bulkhead connector installed
Mega squirt wiring complete with relay panel
Starting to feel like i have passed the 50% mark.
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