Auto trans cooling hoses

[CFI]

Can someone please tell me which automatic transmission cooling hose brings fluid to the cooler, and which brings the cooled fluid back to the transmission? Thanks!

Also, if anyone happens to know what size the rubber hoses are that would be appreciated as well.

[dmcnc]

It's a 1/2" hose. I replaced them with braided 8AN hoses when I installed my remote cooler.

Fluid flows from the pump (on the hydraulic unit - closest to the front of the car) to the cooler - and from there to the bell housing (closest to the engine) where it feeds into the torque converter.

[CFI]

It's a 1/2" hose. I replaced them with braided 8AN hoses when I installed my remote cooler.

Fluid flows from the pump (on the hydraulic unit - closest to the front of the car) to the cooler - and from there to the bell housing (closest to the engine) where it feeds into the torque converter.

Awesome, thanks. Which cooler did you go with? Where did you mount it?

[dmcnc]

I mounted a Setrab Series-1 Oil Cooler (19 Row w/Spal Fan) on the heat shield above the transmission between the case and the fuel filter. Asbestos by itself can't hold much weight so I used stainless plates above the heat shield and sandwiched the shield between the plates and 4 one-inch spacers that I then bolted the cooler bracket to. One of those spacers is threaded into the heat shield bracket (replacing the original bolt). Between the plates and that direct anchor point to the body, the small cooler is very stable. The one inch spacers also provide enough space for the cooler to work despite it being designed to work flushed against a flat surface (albeit less optimal).

I also included a high flow transmission fluid thermostat (165F), which bypasses the whole auxiliary cooler setup and keeps the stock fluid flow when cold. The fan on the cooler is thermostatically set to 180F - shuts off at 165F.

I have tested the setup (dipstick probe in the trans) on 2 hour drives (including highway and stop-and-go traffic) at ambient temps in the high 90s. Fluid temp stabilizes around 175-180 and hasn't exceeded 185F.

I only went for this setup because I drive the car so much. I would consider this unnecessary for the weekend driver - especially if your engine cooling system is working properly.

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[CFI]

I also included a high flow transmission fluid thermostat (165F), which bypasses the whole auxiliary cooler setup and keeps the stock fluid flow when cold. The fan on the cooler is thermostatically set to 180F - shuts off at 165F.

I have tested the setup (dipstick probe in the trans) on 2 hour drives (including highway and stop-and-go traffic) at ambient temps in the high 90s. Fluid temp stabilizes around 175-180 and hasn't exceeded 185F.

I only went for this setup because I drive the car so much. I would consider this unnecessary for the weekend driver - especially if your engine cooling system is working properly.

Great info, thank you.

[DMCMW Dave]

I mounted a Setrab Series-1 Oil Cooler ..

I also included a high flow transmission fluid thermostat (165F), which bypasses the whole auxiliary cooler setup and keeps the stock fluid flow when cold. The fan on the cooler is thermostatically set to 180F - shuts off at 165F.
]

I really like this installation. I've seen a few others (typically a cooler up front with lots of hose) and they are always messy/leaky. This is really clean.

I'm curious about the thermostatic valve setup - what is used there?

Also - can't tell if you have headers or the original crossover, if you have headers you could probably just remove the asbestos heat shield altogether for more room. But it really looks good as-is.

[CFI]

Speaking of auto transmissions and hoses and coolers, has anyone considered changing to an external transmission filter? Either an in-line filter like the Magnefine or a remotely located Fram spin-on oil filter? Seems like either would be much easier to change, and we wouldn’t be dependent on filter that was, at one point, unavailable for a long time.

[dmcnc]

Hi Dave

Thank you for the feedback! Means a lot!!

I used the following High-Flow Engine Oil Cooler Thermostat (165)
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-th...tat-p-212.html

I'm using headers and now that you mention it - cutting a hole on the shield above the cooler would allow for more air flow.

I really like this installation. I've seen a few others (typically a cooler up front with lots of hose) and they are always messy/leaky. This is really clean.

I'm curious about the thermostatic valve setup - what is used there?

Also - can't tell if you have headers or the original crossover, if you have headers you could probably just remove the asbestos heat shield altogether for more room. But it really looks good as-is.

[David T]

Speaking of auto transmissions and hoses and coolers, has anyone considered changing to an external transmission filter? Either an in-line filter like the Magnefine or a remotely located Fram spin-on oil filter? Seems like either would be much easier to change, and we wouldn’t be dependent on filter that was, at one point, unavailable for a long time.

The filter doesn't require such frequent changes that would necessitate a remote design and it wouldn't protect the pump. When it was unavailable I created a procedure to open it, clean it, and seal it up again to make it reusable. Worse than when it was unavailable, a batch was made incorrectly and using it would destroy the transmission. All of that bad stock is probably out of everyone's parts inventory by now but it is something to watch out for. The best thing to do is check the transmission fluid and if it smells burnt or is very dark, it is time to change it and the filter. By having to remove the pan to change the filter you get to see the amount of debris in the pan and how much is stuck to the magnet. That gives an indication of how much life is left to the transmission.

[CFI]

The filter doesn't require such frequent changes that would necessitate a remote design and it wouldn't protect the pump. When it was unavailable I created a procedure to open it, clean it, and seal it up again to make it reusable. Worse than when it was unavailable, a batch was made incorrectly and using it would destroy the transmission. All of that bad stock is probably out of everyone's parts inventory by now but it is something to watch out for. The best thing to do is check the transmission fluid and if it smells burnt or is very dark, it is time to change it and the filter. By having to remove the pan to change the filter you get to see the amount of debris in the pan and how much is stuck to the magnet. That gives an indication of how much life is left to the transmission.

I saw those instructions for cleaning. That is very handy, thanks.

You make some good points. I suppose with the infrequent need to change the filter it really isn’t worth a remote design.