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Thread: Heater not working

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

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    While the valve is a likely cause of the non-flow, if you have a heater core that has not been flowing for a looong time, it is also possible the heater core is plugged up. The passages inside are small and over time old coolant gels and hardens. I would disconnect the heater hoses at the motor and loosely (so you don't build up too much pressure) use a garden hose and see if you can get any flow through the heater hoses and heater core. Once you know you have good flow you can work on the valve. Very common for the valves to leak and get stuck.
    David Teitelbaum

  2. #12
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Yeah, the heater core connection tubes are quite soft. Several years ago when I did an evaporator replacement, I removed the heater hoses and found one tube was severely crushed from overnighting the hose clamp. That said, it never leaked and did not effect heating performance. I was fortunate in that I was able to reopen and reshape the tube to be fully round again.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  3. #13
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Oct 2018

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    My VIN:    3191

    I found that one of the metal coolant lines running up to the front of the car was totally plugged with crud! Still need to get that fixed. It’d be nice to have a functioning heater in Oregon.

  4. #14
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    I'd check to see if the control cable is attached at the temp switch and at the box before messing around with hoses and coolant.
    -----Dan B.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

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    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    I'd check to see if the control cable is attached at the temp switch and at the box before messing around with hoses and coolant.
    This will have no effect if the coolant isn't circulating in the heater core. Another thing to watch for, where the rubber hoses attach to the long aluminum coolant pipes, you get pinholes from corrosion. When it is really bad pieces will have dissolved from the ends of the pipes. You can either get longer hoses or new pipes. Way back, an owner bought a car and the engine was complexity clogged with gelled coolant. I forgot what he did to clean it out. This can happen because a car sits for a very long time and especially if different types of coolant ever got mixed. Some of the newer types of coolant do not mix well at all with other types. You can find all kinds of horror stories about this on the Internet.
    David Teitelbaum

  6. #16
    Senior Member SBL's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Treasure Island, FL

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    My VIN:    10XXX

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    Well, I pulled the hose at the heater core. Water was there, but it was not hot and did not flow. I hate getting in there with that valve. I have, in the past, caused added problems because it is hard for me to get to. Will have to pull it and check it.
    Steve Liggett
    Treasure Island, FL
    1982 automatic, VIN 10XXX, grey int

    Previous: VIN 5983, VIN 3670
    Who knows where my previous 1981 with 6 cylinder Chevy engine is these days (cannot find that VIN) ?

  7. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2016

    Posts:    16

    What ended up being the problem?

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