New Door Lock ECU

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks for the photo. Now it came back to me from 10 or more years ago when I built my first door lock unit. I had the Zilla case which has a circuit breaker mounted inside of it. So I decided to remove the breaker mounted on the metal because it was rated higher than the breaker in the Zilla. So I just used the brown wire feeding the breaker and put a pin on it and used that extra pin in the connector.

So if you want to keep the breaker, you would wire one of my brown wires to the breaker like they did with the OEM unit.

Since the solenoids only get power for 333 ms. removing the breaker does not really save heat generated, it only reduces a few connections. The fan circuit breaker should be removed if using fused jumper wires or my fan fail since that runs a long time and produces heat.

[dmcman73]

I purchased one of David’s DLM, I was the one working with him with the negative trigger keyless entry.

I added the 9pin connector to the unit, but, I tied both brown wires to a spade connector so I can plug it into the DLM thermal breaker. Since both brown wires are tied to each other internally, it didn’t make sense to put one into the 9 pin connector and one on the breaker. The original DLM required two separate 12v feeds, one for the solenoids (that 12v feed went to the thermal breaker) and the other for the rest of the circuit to power it (that 12v feed goes directly to pin 4 of the 9 pin connector). I wanted to keep everything as close to original as possible for easier trouble shooting with the current wiring diagram/ fuse locations and also to easily install another lock module (or help test one for another owner) if need be.

Dave added the red and green wires for my remote lock/unlock unit and I am just waiting for a two pin molex connectors to come in to keep it all clean and allow me to remove the DLM easily in the future.

Dave did a fantastic job with this and packed it all into a very small unit. I’m going to swap out my solenoids for the lighter and lower draw actuators in my door.

[Chris4099]

One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).

[BABIS]

One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).

this would be a clever feature. do you have more infos about the mod?

[Chris4099]

this would be a clever feature. do you have more infos about the mod?

Unfortunately I don't as I did this over a decade ago and have long deleted the details Elvis sent me. I'm not even sure it would work with a factory module or any of the replacements as mine is factory with this modification: http://www.teslorean.com/assets/uplo...Module-mod.pdf

However, it's basically a resistor and diode connected to the lock trigger wire. When the door is opened, you ground that connection via the resistor and diode. It then slowly discharges the capacitor and will not trigger the lock relay as if an immediate straight to ground would. The exact value of the resistor is the unknown part. I can't look at the current one either as I have it covered in heat shrink. I guess you can try different value of resistors as there's no harm. Simply start with grounding via the resistor. If the lock triggers, try a higher value of resistor. If it doesn't, wait a second and then bypass the resistor directly and go to ground. If the lock then triggers, the value is too high. A diode isn't needed during testing if you are going straight to ground. Once you have a value that works, add the diode (to prevent any current from feeding from the door lights back into the lock module) and you should be set.

[dmcman73]

One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).

If you perform a "wedgectemy" on the door locks, you don't have to worry about this.

https://support.delorean.com/kb/a101...ation-new.aspx

[Jakub]

So I have installed Dave unit today, I have also added remote unit. In order to keep wiring original I did order dedicated 9 pin socket from England and because of Brexit delivery instead of three days has taken three weeks. Anyhow, as far as door lock go I have full service now, indoor buttons, outdoor keys, FOB, indicators flashing, you name it I've got it. I have been playing, locking and unlocking zyllion times, everything works. Thank you David.

[iOutatime]

When I first got my car I built a new door lock ECU using CMOS logic and that worked fine for me but I never got enough requests from other owners so never did a PCB for it. Well I finally did a new design with a micro and got PCBs made. Now the problem is getting the OEM style 9 pin connectors. DeLoreanGO has some but I suspect even their stock will go away. The two pin connectors are also impossible to find.

Brandon Fayette has reproduced the 9-pin "church" connector for 3D printing for FREE if anyone needs them! His 3D printing has been a godsend in recent times. Here is his original Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1162...8656525865905/

Visit his Dropbox link and see his page on DeLorean Directory for all his 3D models that are freely available for anyone to print. I'd recommend using an online 3D printing service (like ShapeWays) to upload the files and have them professionally printed and shipped right to your door. Again, not trying to boast. But the guy is amazing and I love when different members of the community can solve the missing pieces for each other.

[iOutatime]

I just drop the ECU in the area beside my relay plate and the car body.

A small thing to worry about as of right now, but I can see about getting a 3D printable model of the OEM Door Lock Module housing scanned and place standoffs inside with a removable lid to install the board into.. that way it would fasten to the OEM mounting location. Perhaps it could be possible with a REV B board if not REV A? Seems like the REV A board is more than small enough to fit in the housing as is. Just food for thought, Dave.

[Timebender]

Brandon Fayette has reproduced the 9-pin "church" connector for 3D printing for FREE if anyone needs them! His 3D printing has been a godsend in recent times. Here is his original Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1162...8656525865905/

Visit his Dropbox link and see his page on DeLorean Directory for all his 3D models that are freely available for anyone to print. I'd recommend using an online 3D printing service (like ShapeWays) to upload the files and have them professionally printed and shipped right to your door. Again, not trying to boast. But the guy is amazing and I love when different members of the community can solve the missing pieces for each other.

I just checked out his Dropbox- wow! This guy is extremely clever and there’s so many good things to find there.
What a great resource!