Thanks for the photo. Now it came back to me from 10 or more years ago when I built my first door lock unit. I had the Zilla case which has a circuit breaker mounted inside of it. So I decided to remove the breaker mounted on the metal because it was rated higher than the breaker in the Zilla. So I just used the brown wire feeding the breaker and put a pin on it and used that extra pin in the connector.
So if you want to keep the breaker, you would wire one of my brown wires to the breaker like they did with the OEM unit.
Since the solenoids only get power for 333 ms. removing the breaker does not really save heat generated, it only reduces a few connections. The fan circuit breaker should be removed if using fused jumper wires or my fan fail since that runs a long time and produces heat.
I purchased one of David’s DLM, I was the one working with him with the negative trigger keyless entry.
I added the 9pin connector to the unit, but, I tied both brown wires to a spade connector so I can plug it into the DLM thermal breaker. Since both brown wires are tied to each other internally, it didn’t make sense to put one into the 9 pin connector and one on the breaker. The original DLM required two separate 12v feeds, one for the solenoids (that 12v feed went to the thermal breaker) and the other for the rest of the circuit to power it (that 12v feed goes directly to pin 4 of the 9 pin connector). I wanted to keep everything as close to original as possible for easier trouble shooting with the current wiring diagram/ fuse locations and also to easily install another lock module (or help test one for another owner) if need be.
Dave added the red and green wires for my remote lock/unlock unit and I am just waiting for a two pin molex connectors to come in to keep it all clean and allow me to remove the DLM easily in the future.
Dave did a fantastic job with this and packed it all into a very small unit. I’m going to swap out my solenoids for the lighter and lower draw actuators in my door.
One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).
One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).
this would be a clever feature. do you have more infos about the mod?
this would be a clever feature. do you have more infos about the mod?
Unfortunately I don't as I did this over a decade ago and have long deleted the details Elvis sent me. I'm not even sure it would work with a factory module or any of the replacements as mine is factory with this modification: http://www.teslorean.com/assets/uplo...Module-mod.pdf
However, it's basically a resistor and diode connected to the lock trigger wire. When the door is opened, you ground that connection via the resistor and diode. It then slowly discharges the capacitor and will not trigger the lock relay as if an immediate straight to ground would. The exact value of the resistor is the unknown part. I can't look at the current one either as I have it covered in heat shrink. I guess you can try different value of resistors as there's no harm. Simply start with grounding via the resistor. If the lock triggers, try a higher value of resistor. If it doesn't, wait a second and then bypass the resistor directly and go to ground. If the lock then triggers, the value is too high. A diode isn't needed during testing if you are going straight to ground. Once you have a value that works, add the diode (to prevent any current from feeding from the door lights back into the lock module) and you should be set.
One suggestion I have for a future revision is a lock disable feature. In my case, I rebuilt my factory module to the lower standby current and then added a discharge resister and diode to the lock side (thanks to Elvis for this idea). This is then grounded when a door is open and prevents the lock module from activating the locks. Very handy feature, especially with a keyless entry. All the installer would need to do is tap in at the white delay module (or plug into the alarm output of they have the digital delay module).
If you perform a "wedgectemy" on the door locks, you don't have to worry about this.
Dave M vin 03572
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Originally Posted by Chris4099
